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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Wife too her MDX (2004 with 250k miles) in for a inspection and the mechanic quoted her a pretty stupid high amount of money to do the work (possibly normal price but I work on my own cars so $6k was sticker shock for me). So I'll just do it myself, aside from the cat because that thing is gonna take thors hammer to get off. I'll gladly pay $800 to have someone else wrangle that monster.

We got a sheet back from the mechanic that listed all the stuff to do, but I can't quite make out a few lines.
So my questions-

Any ideas what he said about the VTM-4 fluid?

Is there another name for the "oil pressure test port point"? I have no idea what that even is or where it is.

Anything else I should be replacing or checking while I've got the valve cover off and am doing the valve adjustment? Plan to do all the gaskets while I've got it off.

Thanks in advance!

Sheet from mechanic:
https://i.imgur.com/e86Q6Ec.png
 

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VTM-4 is rear differential fluid, about $40-50 from Honda or Acura. Replacement is easy.

The PS pressure port is on the pump. I see no reason for a service requiring a PS pressure test unless you are having steering problems. A PS fluid replacement is good practice.

Suggest a download shop manual. Check automanualsource.com for $22 manual that is easy to use.

good luck
 

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I read the VTM-4 comment as VTM-4 fluid check?
Checking requires removing the feel plug with a 3/8 drive ratchet and seeing if it is full. But Once you drop the spare you might as well change it. I did mine this weekend it was a 15 minute job.. Fluid was 31 bucks shipped from Amazon.


The other line says Oil pressure test port bolt leaking
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I read the VTM-4 comment as VTM-4 fluid check?
Checking requires removing the feel plug with a 3/8 drive ratchet and seeing if it is full. But Once you drop the spare you might as well change it. I did mine this weekend it was a 15 minute job.. Fluid was 31 bucks shipped from Amazon.


The other line says Oil pressure test port bolt leaking
Any idea where the oil pressure test port bolt is located?


Looking at the VTM check that makes sense now. Fluid was replaced 70k miles ago, wouldn't hurt to do it again I guess.
 

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Any idea where the oil pressure test port bolt is located?


Looking at the VTM check that makes sense now. Fluid was replaced 70k miles ago, wouldn't hurt to do it again I guess.

My quest would be the the oil pressure sending unit near the oil filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everyone. I got under there today and realized the mechanic was smoking something. It is Colorado after all. CV boots are fine, sway bar connectors are pretty new. The oil leak from the valve cover isn't on the front, its on the back and running down everything else. Everything that oil ran over he put on the sheet as leaking. I'll replace the VTEC assembly gasket and solenoid gasket for good measure since I'll be dinking with the valve adjustment anyway and its inexpensive, and I always replace the washer for oil changes, so hopefully that does the trick.

Thanks again, and I'll followup once we get done with everything!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Valve cover replacement fixed all the "leaks".

Turns out the main mechanic I use had someone he thought he could trust running his shop while he was gone for a family emergency. Fake work orders and bogus diagnostics, shoddy workmanship, overcharging and skimming cash off the top, and just overall sleazy mechanic behavior. Was nice to hear he was fired first thing when the owner got back. Owner refunded all the money skimmed and scammed, and did a great job fixing the mess he was left in. I really like the guy, and honestly mistakes happen. His response made things right.

Just needed the bank 1 cat done because I didn't want to wrestle that off. The sleazeball replaced the downstream one instead and didn't tell me. Threw a big fit when he couldn't pressure my wife into paying $300 to get the o2 sensors replaced. So he just unplugged all of the o2 sensors in the car then tried to tell us "its still throwing o2 sensor errors, bring it back when you are ready to get em replaced". What a conman. Oh, and we asked for a full inspection, they gave us normal BS, "brakes are almost spent (3 month old pads and rotors), cabin AC air filter is filthy, etc etc", but TOTALLY missed the fact that the timing belt was about to fall apart. Covered in cracks.

Anywho, got that taken care of at a significant discount, mechanic will replace the BAD cat at half labor. I could have probably pushed for more but honestly they were both likely bad (Ran with a misfire for a few months). Just wanted to at least do them procedurally as the first one was definitely bad, the second was possibly bad.

Thanks for all the help!
 

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Valve cover replacement fixed all the "leaks".

Turns out the main mechanic I use had someone he thought he could trust running his shop while he was gone for a family emergency. Fake work orders and bogus diagnostics, shoddy workmanship, overcharging and skimming cash off the top, and just overall sleazy mechanic behavior. Was nice to hear he was fired first thing when the owner got back. Owner refunded all the money skimmed and scammed, and did a great job fixing the mess he was left in. I really like the guy, and honestly mistakes happen. His response made things right.

Just needed the bank 1 cat done because I didn't want to wrestle that off. The sleazeball replaced the downstream one instead and didn't tell me. Threw a big fit when he couldn't pressure my wife into paying $300 to get the o2 sensors replaced. So he just unplugged all of the o2 sensors in the car then tried to tell us "its still throwing o2 sensor errors, bring it back when you are ready to get em replaced". What a conman. Oh, and we asked for a full inspection, they gave us normal BS, "brakes are almost spent (3 month old pads and rotors), cabin AC air filter is filthy, etc etc", but TOTALLY missed the fact that the timing belt was about to fall apart. Covered in cracks.

Anywho, got that taken care of at a significant discount, mechanic will replace the BAD cat at half labor. I could have probably pushed for more but honestly they were both likely bad (Ran with a misfire for a few months). Just wanted to at least do them procedurally as the first one was definitely bad, the second was possibly bad.

Thanks for all the help!
Sounds like a typical auto mechanic that I deal with. I guess its good to have a guy you can trust.
 
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