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I have no knowledge of what a brushguard is, but there were zero problems installing roadmaster brackets on my '04 Touring for use with MH mounted tow bar. While installing the brackets is not trivial, nothing ends up projecting beneath the car, so a plastic shield (if that is what a brushguard is) would not be in the way after installation. Try another dealer.
 

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mgtr

Thanks for the info. I will try another place, or tell the guys at Camping World about your experience.

also Re:
"anything worth doing is worth doing to excess"
Love it, am going to steal it!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Villageman, perhaps Camping World and Roadmaster are referring to this: (lower trim kit?)

http://www.hondacuraworld.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=08P01-S3V-200A&Category_Code=AMDX

If your MDX has this you would know it. I think they (Camping World) are in error about your MDX having a brushguard.

Like mtgr said the Roadmaster baseplate fits very nice on the MDX. Requires no modification of the grill except some minor trimming I had to do on the inside brace of the grill so the pins for the adapter would fit. Not noticeable at all. With the brackets removed the baseplate is almost invisible.

I have seen a few MDX's with the Blue Ox baseplate and unlike the Roadmaster some minor trimming on the outside of the grill was required. Not much but can be noticed if you are looking for it.

I now have towed the MDX for over 4000 miles and not one problem so far.

I wouldn't give up on Camping World, their price as mentioned by someone on another thread was very good. I installed mine myself and it was not a quick easy job. Took me about 6 hours. Did Camping World give you a quote and if so what was it. The Baseplate costs over $350 without installation and I was quoted $675 for the installed baseplate (did not check Camping World however).
 

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Thanks Bald Eagle
Man this forum is great, lots of experts willing to help.

No that is not what they call brushguard but I am pretty sure that is what is pictured. What they called a brushguard is a thin plastic piece that fits right behind the grey cladding at the bottom of the bumper. I took a snapshot of it and will attach it. The red in the snapshot is not real, just an outline I added so you can see where the part is. I have to think that every MDX has this little plastic part, and looks like it comes off in about a minute if needed. Hope you can understand the pic.
 

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Bald Eagle


Hey, just got brain storm to do google search for "brushguard" and duh! The first thing that pops up is non other than Roadmaster's own page and what they call a brushguard.

So now I understand why they use the term in their page of mounting options.

http://www.roadmasterinc.com/brushguard.html

So it turns out that I got no problem, just a little confusion with the Camping World guy. And I agree, they do good work and good prices. I will go back and I will take a printout of the roadmaster brushguard.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Villageman, that plastic part you have shown with the red outline is not a brushguard. I Remember that part well from my baseplate install, it must be removed to install the baseplate, but it does not even come close to where the baseplate goes. No trimming of that part is required. It's a standard part of every MDX and will not cause any problems installing the baseplate. Makes me wonder if they are competent to install the baseplate? Could be an OTJ training exercise when they do the install.

What MH do you have that the MDX will be pushing?
 

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Lance Crowley said:
Like baldeagel I installed the MH baseplates myself and took about 6 hours to do. Not an easy job and I'm not sure I'd do it again. A local MH approved shop in my area quoted me $350 to do it.

I did the wiring myself with help from my better 1/2. By far and away a much easier job. Took us about 1 1/2 hours using the MH diodes and 4 wire kit. I already had the 4 wire plug on the back of my coach so it was a matter of running the 4 wire cable supplied under the X using wire ties to secure it. Popped off the taillights and ran the wire up into the passenger's side taillight, cut the X's turnsignal and stoplight wires wired them into diodes and then ran the wires over to the drivers side and put in the required diodes there. The MH kit's got everything you need. Be sure you get 6 diodes if you do it. If I remember correctly, in the 4 wire harness the white is the ground, I cut that off near the front of the X and ran it done to an existing ground lug just under the cooling fan. The way I have it setup only the rear lights work.

I should note that the diodes from MH have 2 input lugs and 1 output lug. So, you cut the X's wire and attach it to 1 side of the diode with the connector supplied, attach the correct wire from the coach to the other side and then attach the X's wire you just cut to the output side of the diode.

Believe me, after doing the base plates the wiring was a laugher.

Going to run down the power draw when towing the X today. Finally got a clamp on DC amp meter and will do test to determine what's running my battery down so fast. I've got myself 1/2 convinced that I'll need to change to a 6 wire harness and run a +12 wire to the battery of the X to keep it's battery charged while towing. I'm not happy with the thought of pulling fuses and not having the 12v outlets available for the Brake Buddy.

I'll post the results when I'm done.
 

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Lance Crowley said:
Like baldeagel I installed the MH baseplates myself and took about 6 hours to do. Not an easy job and I'm not sure I'd do it again. A local MH approved shop in my area quoted me $350 to do it.

I did the wiring myself with help from my better 1/2. By far and away a much easier job. Took us about 1 1/2 hours using the MH diodes and 4 wire kit. I already had the 4 wire plug on the back of my coach so it was a matter of running the 4 wire cable supplied under the X using wire ties to secure it. Popped off the taillights and ran the wire up into the passenger's side taillight, cut the X's turnsignal and stoplight wires wired them into diodes and then ran the wires over to the drivers side and put in the required diodes there. The MH kit's got everything you need. Be sure you get 6 diodes if you do it. If I remember correctly, in the 4 wire harness the white is the ground, I cut that off near the front of the X and ran it done to an existing ground lug just under the cooling fan. The way I have it setup only the rear lights work.

I should note that the diodes from MH have 2 input lugs and 1 output lug. So, you cut the X's wire and attach it to 1 side of the diode with the connector supplied, attach the correct wire from the coach to the other side and then attach the X's wire you just cut to the output side of the diode.

Believe me, after doing the base plates the wiring was a laugher.

Going to run down the power draw when towing the X today. Finally got a clamp on DC amp meter and will do test to determine what's running my battery down so fast. I've got myself 1/2 convinced that I'll need to change to a 6 wire harness and run a +12 wire to the battery of the X to keep it's battery charged while towing. I'm not happy with the thought of pulling fuses and not having the 12v outlets available for the Brake Buddy.

I'll post the results when I'm done.

Did you ever discover the cause of your battery drain??

Does anyone else have this problem??
 

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You can stop the battery drain down by pulling the #9 fuse before towing. This is located in the panel in front of the passeger's door. It does not cause your memory (Radio or Nav) to be disturbed.

I installed a switch so I don't have to fuss with fuses.
 

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All I did was to mount a switch in the side kick panel adjacent to the fuse box and wire it in series with the #9 fuse. Now I can throw the switch to the down position for towing and the up position for driving. Works great takes literally a second or two.

If this is not a comfortable mod for you to do, any auto mechanic could do it in less than an hour.

Marc
 

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Tried that, didn't work!

BaldEagle:

Pulled the #9 fuse from the passenger's side fuse box. Battery still went dead. One of my projects, that I haven't gotten to yet, is to put an ampmeter in the circuit and try to run down where the draw is coming from.
I know this is an old post, but I had trouble with my battery going dead in general at times with nothing on. I found out there is an issue with the hands free phone system. I have a 2005 used and the link didn't work any way, so I removed it in upper console in the top middle of windshield. I have not had any issues with battery drain since removing that component. I'm looking for the connectors to install on my vehicle. I bought used MH that already had a tow bar. Now just gotta get the right brackets. Good luck to ya and many happy travels.
 
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