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I have a 2008 Honda Pilot EX-L. Lately I've had my eye on a few MDXs. I like the idea of a little more power and the SH-AWD. I know the engines are a little different but still aware of the timing belt and transmission stuff. I am wondering if there's anything else I should be aware of before I switch to Acura. Is maintenance still generally the same price or are parts exponentially more expensive?

If anyone has made the switch I'd appreciate any tips or anything common problems I should keep my eye out for I'd really appreciate it.
 

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Can you make the Pilot last a few more years?
I can not recommend a 2010 - 2013 (inc) MDX, because of known oil consumption recalls.
That leaves you in the market, for a 07 - 09 MDX, which will probably have as much wear and tear as your 08 Pilot.
The 2015 base mdx, sh-awd & tech is between $21k and $24k and in a few years it will be $16,000.
Here's a link to help you figure out how much to spend:

Blackbook
 

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Going from regular gas to super is something to consider...Also, really can’t go wrong with that transition: bigger brakes, bigger displacement engine, better all wheel drive, more luxurious... Can’t go wrong....

Cost of Maintenance parts from Honda and Acura are equivalent...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Can you make the Pilot last a few more years?
I can not recommend a 2010 - 2013 (inc) MDX, because of known oil consumption recalls.
That leaves you in the market, for a 07 - 09 MDX, which will probably have as much wear and tear as your 08 Pilot.
The 2015 base mdx, sh-awd & tech is between $21k and $24k and in a few years it will be $16,000.
Here's a link to help you figure out how much to spend:

Blackbook
Yeah I'm mainly looking to sell the Pilot and spend maybe another $1,000-1,500 towards an older MDX. So wear and tear is ok. But maybe I won't be able to find a decent condition 07-09 MDX.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Going from regular gas to super is something to consider...Also, really can’t go wrong with that transition: bigger brakes, bigger displacement engine, better all wheel drive, more luxurious... Can’t go wrong....

Cost of Maintenance parts from Honda and Acura are equivalent...
So I'm not looking to start a huge debate (as these kinds of things can do) but what is the deal with premium gas? Is it 100% required or just recommended. My mechanic recommends mid-grade in my Pilot just to protect things a little better. Just curious because that will add some additional cost if I make the switch.
 

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what is the deal with premium gas? Is it 100% required or just recommended. My mechanic recommends mid-grade in my Pilot just to protect things a little better.
per MDX manual, Premium gas recommended....
per Pilot manual, Regular gas recommended...

there is no reason to get mid grade for your Pilot...theres no extra protection... However putting regular in an MDX could result in pre detonation (Mdx has anti knock that will retard timing if triggered). The rest is pure conjecture....varying Opinions...
 

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Can you make the Pilot last a few more years?
I can not recommend a 2010 - 2013 (inc) MDX, because of known oil consumption recalls.
That leaves you in the market, for a 07 - 09 MDX, which will probably have as much wear and tear as your 08 Pilot.
The 2015 base mdx, sh-awd & tech is between $21k and $24k and in a few years it will be $16,000.
Here's a link to help you figure out how much to spend:

Blackbook
why would the oil consumption be an issue if there is a recall for it....wouldnt it be covered by acura if the unit he buys has that issue?


I have 98k miles on mine and it passed the consumption test
 

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why would the oil consumption be an issue if there is a recall for it....wouldnt it be covered by acura if the unit he buys has that issue?


I have 98k miles on mine and it passed the consumption test
Why? Because the official program for the recall for oil consumption is simply a warranty extension to 8 years/125K miles and if it happens after that you are on your own, especially as a 2nd or later owner. Those of us that know these cars are otherwise relatively solid to 250K+ want something that won't need a major engine repair at 130K or 160K which is still a fairly high probability. Not blaming Honda in this case because you can't expect a warranty extension forever, but I just wouldn't buy one. My next MDX will be a '14 or '15 because of the reputation of the 6 speed those years have vs the 9 speed that is in the '16+.
 

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per MDX manual, Premium gas recommended....
As per the MDX manual, it's required.

why would the oil consumption be an issue if there is a recall for it
Several reasons.

Here are primary:

1) It takes a lot of time to go through the consumption test (that is even if you are qualified to go through it)
2) As per Acura, anything just a little under the recall qualification is not a reason to fix it. We all know it's not normal for a Honda engine to consume 1L of oil per 1000 kms. It's not a BMW.
3) Even if by some miracle you qualify for the recall, it might take quite a while for you to get it done.
4) Even if the repair is done, it doesn't mean the problem is fully fixed and won't come back.

Bottom line: it's best to stay away from 2010-2013 cars.
 

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Yeah I'm mainly looking to sell the Pilot and spend maybe another $1,000-1,500 towards an older MDX. So wear and tear is ok. But maybe I won't be able to find a decent condition 07-09 MDX.
There are probably far more low mile MDX cars in the market in the '07-'09 range than Pilots quite frankly and because luxury cars tend to be purchased by people with the means and mindset to take care of their cars they tend to have better care. Keeping the cost difference at $1,000-1,500 will be nearly impossible if there is a dealer involved in any part of the transaction and absolutely impossible if you try to trade the Pilot for an MDX simply because the dealer profit will be too much to bear on essentially 2 transactions (the sale of yours to them and the sale of theirs to you). Buying from a private seller and selling yours to a private buyer should keep you in your target range. A bit over a year ago I found that if year, miles, equipment, and condition were all equal from a pilot to an MDX then the price was pretty much a wash. IMO that stems from the market acknowledging that the MDX will be more expensive to drive due to the premium gas issue. As already mentioned premium gas is highly recommended. Some cars on the market with the premium recommendation can be run on lower grades without issue, but the MDX motor is tweaked to 11:1 compression and that's why it needs premium.

One of the weak spots on all Honda V-6 motors is the rear catalytic converter. These cars left the factory in that era with an ECM program issue that caused bank 1 to run too rich when the engine was cold. Make sure the TSB to update the ECM parameters was done on any MDX you buy. Also beware of a weakness in the radiator with the internal trans cooler failing and mixing coolant into the trans fluid. If not caught early the mixture will ruin the trans. My X had a new radiator and rebuilt trans right before I bought it and I'm convinced the previous owner called it quits when that happened. Those new components are only valued by informed buyers and not the general market, so I paid pretty much the same as others that were on the market at the time and those issues were already addressed.
 

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Why? Because the official program for the recall for oil consumption is simply a warranty extension to 8 years/125K miles and if it happens after that you are on your own, especially as a 2nd or later owner. Those of us that know these cars are otherwise relatively solid to 250K+ want something that won't need a major engine repair at 130K or 160K which is still a fairly high probability. Not blaming Honda in this case because you can't expect a warranty extension forever, but I just wouldn't buy one. My next MDX will be a '14 or '15 because of the reputation of the 6 speed those years have vs the 9 speed that is in the '16+.
what would you recommend say in my case? its a 2011 with 98k miles. The 105k service is coming up soon. Should we be dumping this ? The oil consumption test was done at 90k miles and was fine
 

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There are probably far more low mile MDX cars in the market in the '07-'09 range than Pilots quite frankly and because luxury cars tend to be purchased by people with the means and mindset to take care of their cars they tend to have better care. Keeping the cost difference at $1,000-1,500 will be nearly impossible if there is a dealer involved in any part of the transaction and absolutely impossible if you try to trade the Pilot for an MDX simply because the dealer profit will be too much to bear on essentially 2 transactions (the sale of yours to them and the sale of theirs to you). Buying from a private seller and selling yours to a private buyer should keep you in your target range. A bit over a year ago I found that if year, miles, equipment, and condition were all equal from a pilot to an MDX then the price was pretty much a wash. IMO that stems from the market acknowledging that the MDX will be more expensive to drive due to the premium gas issue. As already mentioned premium gas is highly recommended. Some cars on the market with the premium recommendation can be run on lower grades without issue, but the MDX motor is tweaked to 11:1 compression and that's why it needs premium.

One of the weak spots on all Honda V-6 motors is the rear catalytic converter. These cars left the factory in that era with an ECM program issue that caused bank 1 to run too rich when the engine was cold. Make sure the TSB to update the ECM parameters was done on any MDX you buy. Also beware of a weakness in the radiator with the internal trans cooler failing and mixing coolant into the trans fluid. If not caught early the mixture will ruin the trans. My X had a new radiator and rebuilt trans right before I bought it and I'm convinced the previous owner called it quits when that happened. Those new components are only valued by informed buyers and not the general market, so I paid pretty much the same as others that were on the market at the time and those issues were already addressed.
do you have tsb # for the ecm? and is it recommeded to do this to any mdx regardless if no symptoms shown? thanks
 

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what would you recommend say in my case? its a 2011 with 98k miles. The 105k service is coming up soon. Should we be dumping this ? The oil consumption test was done at 90k miles and was fine

There is no such a thing as fine oil consumption :) If the test was done, it was done for a reason. It is consuming oil, question is how much.
 

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So we can agree that using 87 octane causes metallic knocking noises...which we all know is preignition, or the boom going off before the spark.
114349

So if the boom goes off before the spark, and the spark happens at the perfect time as the piston is at, or damn close to top dead center...
Why play games that will cause the explosion to happen before the piston reaches tdc?
114353

Unless we want to win stupid prizes.
114350

114351
114352

Use premium.., compressing explosions never works out well long term
 

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per manual: Fuel Recommendation....
I guess we differ in interpreting it. To me the following damage warning says it all:
The use of regular unleaded gasoline can cause metallic knocking noises in the engine and will result in decreased engine performance. The long-term use of regular-grade gasoline can lead to engine damage.
 

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what would you recommend say in my case? its a 2011 with 98k miles. The 105k service is coming up soon. Should we be dumping this ? The oil consumption test was done at 90k miles and was fine
do you have tsb # for the ecm? and is it recommeded to do this to any mdx regardless if no symptoms shown? thanks
I don't know that the TSB for the ECM update is applicable to the 2011. Double check with your dealer to make sure, but I believe the correction was made by then in production. As for what to do with your 2011, tough call. Do you dump it in a private sale to an unsuspecting buyer or just trade it in? Keep in mind that much like many other TSB's and recalls not every vehicle will be affected. A recall or TSB just means that it occurs often enough to warrant them being issued. A recall is almost always safety related while a TSB is typically a common failure that warrants at minimum a notice for dealer service departments to help them diagnose a common issue more efficiently and at the worst a warranty extension to address customer satisfaction issues. Not all TSB's carry an extended warranty or manufacturer paid repair.

First off, the following opinions are based on the concept that you will continue to drive the car 10K miles a year if you keep it. If it were my 2011 my decision would be made based on my typically replacement cycle. I tend to drive my cars until it just doesn't make financial sense, so I would keep driving it hoping that I got one that didn't develop the problem, but part of my decision would be based on how the oil changes have been handled and the type of miles driven so far. IMO extended oil changes and lots of local/short trips contribute to this problem. If most of your oil changes were at 7,000 or beyond that doesn't help, but if a lot of your oil changes were done at 5-6K or less I would feel more comfortable of your chances of dodging the carbon build up on the piston rings issue and I would get oil changes done with full synthetic oil every 5K from here on. If you are thinking of just driving the car for a couple more years then dump it now while it has no issues and is right at that 100K mark. I'm also assuming it has not had the timing belt done yet and that would be another reason to just dump it as doing that service needs to be done (think $1,500+) and does NOT add any market value to most buyers or even to dealers on trade-in.
 
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