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Discussion Starter #1
Everything I'm seeing online says that the oil plug size is M14 x 1.5 for a 2006 MDX. Is this correct? That is what I had purchased just in case I needed it, due to the dealer saying that I had an oversized plug and they wouldn't guarantee they could re-seal it.

I just removed a M14 1.25 bolt from mine. Whatever oil change butcher shop had changed it last, also used a fiber washer and sealant, rather than the aluminum washer. When I hand tighten it in there to test it, it feels a little too wobbly in the threads until it seats. I haven't tried to torque it yet because I know doing so can really damage the threads if they are incorrect. When I removed it, I could also tell it was well short of the 29 ft/lbs it is supposed to be.

When I try to run the M14 1.5 bolt I bought as a replacement into it, it feels good for a couple turns, and then it locks up tight with half an inch to go before seating correctly.

If this is supposed to be the correct size, the threads were probably chewed up by the other bolt, and I'm thinking of trying a reamer to clean it out and see if I can get the 1.5 to work again and seat again.

Thanks.
 

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Sounds like some gorilla cross-threaded your bolt (that's why I change my own oil). You're probably cutting / chasing "new" threads when you install the new bolt.

There are really two outcomes here...

1) Run it down to the spec'd torque (or hey, maybe JUST a little less).with an old crush washer, before you put the new oil in... if it strips, you need to fix it anyway, and can deal with one of the many options then. Or,
2) You do the above, then put a new crush washer on the bolt (this and every time you do an oil change), and run it down to the torque spec and monitor it for leakage. If you see any, then you determine if you can live with it 'til the next oil change, and explore those other options.

I'm betting, based on your description, that it'll be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well that was my first 3 hour oil change.

After trying to find an M14x1.5 tap at Harbor Freight or home center available for pickup and almost pressing send on a 1 day Amazon order - because I thought I wanted to try dressing the threads - I went back out to the car and tried easing the M14x1.5 plug in. It was not going any further, and I didn't want to push my luck.

Instead I cleaned the M14x1.25 plug that was in there real good to get the sealant off, put the proper aluminum crush washer on it, crossed my fingers, and tightened it down to 25 ft/lbs. It seems solid.

I didn't realize what a huge mess removing the oil filter would make when the car hadn't run in a day. After I got that cleaned up I didn't have a long and narrow enough funnel. I had to transfer oil to another bottle and then use my tranny fill nozzle to get the oil into the engine.

I have no idea what is going on with that plug being the wrong size. I didn't have the car up enough, nor me behind it enough to maybe see down the oil drain hole. I couldn't feel anything unusual around the hole. All I can guess is that some place put a helicoil or steel insert spark plug repair kit down into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sounds like some gorilla cross-threaded your bolt (that's why I change my own oil). You're probably cutting / chasing "new" threads when you install the new bolt.

There are really two outcomes here...

1) Run it down to the spec'd torque (or hey, maybe JUST a little less).with an old crush washer, before you put the new oil in... if it strips, you need to fix it anyway, and can deal with one of the many options then. Or,
2) You do the above, then put a new crush washer on the bolt (this and every time you do an oil change), and run it down to the torque spec and monitor it for leakage. If you see any, then you determine if you can live with it 'til the next oil change, and explore those other options.

I'm betting, based on your description, that it'll be fine.
Sounds like we had the same ideas. It just took me longer to work up the courage to actually do it.

In the 30 minutes from the time I filled up the oil and cleaned up the area until I came in, it didn't seem be starting a drip. So I'll hope for the best.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's still weeping, even after increasing the torque to 30 ft/lbs, but at least it didn't strip.

At the next oil change I'm thinking of trying a Fumoto F111SX quick drain valve. This is only the right part number because I apparently have a repair kit in my oil pan with a M14x1.25 thread.

I'm thinking of trying it more because it requires only 18 ft lbs, and seals with an o ring to the pan. That might provide more tolerance if the thread repair wasn't perfectly square.

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I like the idea of the Fumoto drain plug. I think the key to it being less likely to leak is the fiber washer (which in theory should be more likely to seal than an aluminum washer). And better yet, it won't require ever removing it and risking those damaged threads finally giving up the ghost. I suspect since you can put 30 foot pounds (yikes) of torque on the plug that you could most likely just put a fiber washer on it and fix your problem, too... but hey... if you can spend $30 and do an upgrade AND fix a problem, why not?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah I figured a fiber washer should work better. But when I saw both the fiber washer and sealant, I didn't know if the previous shop was being overly cautious, or if the fiber washer didn't work alone. So I figured I'd try the aluminum washer.

I also read on a thread that something about the way the back valve cover leaks if it's failing can easily look like a leaking oil drain plug. So I should probably inspect it more closely.

But I don't mind spending some money to make my life easier, and try to fix a problem for good.

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