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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can’t iguring out why my front suspension feels kinda clunking on tiny bumps and potholes. The clunking noise is not that loud but it doesn’t sound like a solid suspension as it was new. Jacked up the car and spent almost 2 hours underneath and found nothing loose. Frustrated!


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How many miles on your MDX?

Could need new struts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wow. After the wheel alignment I don’t feel my front suspension making clunking sounds anymore! What’s exactly did the guy adjust and tighten to make the suspension firm again? Where are location of these adjustments? I want to check this for future problem.


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Front suspension is almost non-adjustable at all unless you have the Optional Camber Bolts, Otherwise they can only adjust the Toe.
Rear suspension is Worse I believe is completely non-Adjustable?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Front suspension is almost non-adjustable at all unless you have the Optional Camber Bolts, Otherwise they can only adjust the Toe.

Rear suspension is Worse I believe is completely non-Adjustable?


If the rear suspension is unjustable how come the guy was able to get it in specs. It was out of specs


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By the powers of great "Screwed you up"?
If the rear goes out of spec the only way he can get it back is by replacing parts.
 

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That is the same service manual that says you don´t need to remove the belt tensioner to check the timing belt cover?

The Camber bolts for the Front are OPTIONAL, Have you removed the rear wheels???
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That is the same service manual that says you don´t need to remove the belt tensioner to check the timing belt cover?

The Camber bolts for the Front are OPTIONAL, Have you removed the rear wheels???


This 2010-2012 SM. The first page is for the rear adjustment and the second page is for the front adjustment. I physically crawled under the rear suspension and confirmed it looks exactly like on the first page. I think rear suspension on 2007-2013 MDX is adjustable.


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Interesting, How much time did the clerk took on the rear? because if that is the only adjustment is less than 5 minutes per wheel.
 

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I had the same clunking issues. An alignment and new struts did not fix the problem. My issue was sway bar links, link bushings and both tie rod ends on the front. For measure, I changed the bushings and links in the rear. I then went for alignment and yes there are toe adjustments for all 4 wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I had the same clunking issues. An alignment and new struts did not fix the problem. My issue was sway bar links, link bushings and both tie rod ends on the front. For measure, I changed the bushings and links in the rear. I then went for alignment and yes there are toe adjustments for all 4 wheels.


Do you have the parts # you were replaced?


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Looking at the wheel alignment report they only adjusted the front (left & right) tie rode AND rear toe (left & right).



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Time to investigate adding some parts to adjust rear camber. Look at your right rear camber, it is almost going out of spec. Also is front camber adjustable? (I only know rear camber is not w/o additional parts.)
 

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Time to investigate adding some parts to adjust rear camber. Look at your right rear camber, it is almost going out of spec. Also is front camber adjustable? (I only know rear camber is not w/o additional parts.)
To add negative camber at the rear, throw a bag of sand in the back. To go positive, take out the useless third row seats. Or clear out the storage cubby.:wink:

BS aside, rear end "squat" is a known feature of theses vehicles. Why bother messing with rear camber unless you plan to take the thing to the track?
 

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Front Camber is adjustable using the Optional Camber Kit from Honda.
Its also sold by Aftermarket like Moog.

Just requires 2 new Screws for the Strut/Knuckle mount.
 
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