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Everyday when I start the car for the first time, the car shuts off and "Check charging system" flashes. After it cuts off, I am able to restart it and it runs fine for the rest of the day. Or, If I start it and let it run for about 15 mins, it's fine. This issue only occurs after sitting overnight. I took it to advance auto and had the battery and alternator checks, both checked out fine.

This have been happening for a week. I am hoping that the issue does not progress. Does anyone know anything that could be causing this?

2nd Generation MDX - 2007
Apx 197,000 miles
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The battery is about a year or two old, when I had the battery checked, it checked out fine. My husband checked the connectors but they seem at be fine too. There is a little corrosion on the battery connectors she he's going to try cleaning them.

It seems like the problem started when I had a tune up, I'm not sure if that caused the issue. When I had the tune up, my husband also replaced a fuses under the hood, it was a 30 amp but was only suppose to be a 20.

Also, he just cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor yesterday, and I am still having the issue.
 

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I had this issue with my 11 MDX and I did all the same checks of the battery, alternator, starter, and connections. Told Acura about it and they said there was a reflash of the system that would clear the message. I haven't had the message in +2yrs since updating the firmware. I don't know if the reflash applies to the 07-09 MDX or what exactly what they did.

Before I did the reflash, I purchased a battery charger/maintainer with a volt % reading. That is a good way to double-check the charging system to see at what % the battery is at certain times. You might have a power drain (bluetooth module?) that might bring down the charge % after X amount of hours. I would top off the battery at 100% charge and check the % over the weekend to see how much it drops over a weekend.
 
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Replace the 30 fuse back to the correct 20 to start with. You may have a partial short somewhere. What fuse for which section did you replace?
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I had the battery replaced, along with the connectors. I had misfires on 1, 3 and 4 coil packs, they were all replaced. The spark plugs were gapped wrong, I had the corrected to 0.044. And lastly, I had the throttle body cleaned. These were all issues that the shop said could be causing the issue, however, I am still having the issue. I was also told that it may be the exhaust manifold, I will be having this replaced as soon as I can. I will also try Rusich and Alpine003's suggestions.

This is driving me insane!

Thanks everyone for your help. Srry for the delay, I just had twins and to add this issue... I hadn't had time to get back on.
 

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Congrats on the new additions to the family!

My youngest will start college in a few weeks.
 
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potential drain problem?
measure the current draw on your battery with everything turned off. You should be reading 10s of milli amps
if you are reading hundreds of milliamps or amps, proceed to checking which fuse is drawing such power.

I had a similar problem on a Lexus that stuck around for years. I'm not sure why, but the problem eventually went away all by itself lol
 

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First off, congrats on the twins.

Second, don't ever go back to that mechanic again. He doesn't seem to have good troubleshooting skills. You don't need to be throwing random parts at it and wasting money on your own dime.

Like I said, get that 30a fuse out of their and put an a meter to measure amps to see if it measures unusually high.

Let us know what circuit that fuse belongs to and we can direct you further in troubleshooting on areas to look at.
 
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A cheap starting point would be to get a battery terminal post cleaning kit and post shims. Take off the cables and clean everything up and reinstall with shims. Tighten to very snug without over doing it and damaging the connectors. The original connectors tend to corrode and lose material. With that, it becomes difficult to get a tight solid connection to the posts. Even though you can grab and shake them and they seem tight, sometimes the connection underneath is not solid and continuous. This is a $5 way to rule that out.

Next put a small volt meter in your car (plug in to 12v outlet inside). This will help you measure the voltage at specific snapshots in time. Particularly when that light comes on. $10
https://www.amazon.com/Car-Charger-Smartphone-Temperature-Fahrenheit/dp/B00SWGWILI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470328981&sr=8-1&keywords=volt+meter+cigarette

Keep an eye on the voltage when that light comes on. My alternator went bad and was only charging at 11V which threw the light. You might have loose connections or possibly a bad alternator. If you replace the alternator use a Bosch Re-manufactured one from Rock. The correct voltage should be 13V-14V.

"A car alternator needs to be putting out at least 13-14 volts (ideally between 13.8 and 14.2 volts) to effectively charge a 12 volt car battery"

I would also advise unplugging your BT module if it is old and giving the battery a good solid charge from a battery charger before starting the stuff above.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So I have been doing more researching and trying to explain what's going on better (the problems getting worst). I just wanted to keep everyone updated in case someone else haves the same issue.
I guess that I should say that when the engine is cold the RPM or tachometer fluctuates. So I start the car, the rpm starts at 1 and lowers towards 0, and it’ll go back up to one and lower again, and of course, any time that it hits 0, the car cuts off. I have to start it again and the same thing will happen, maybe about 2-4 times.

As I mentioned before, I could just let the car run for a while and it wouldn’t cut off. After a few minutes of letting the car run, I’d be fine.
We’ve been having 70-95 degree weather and this happens so I am hoping that I can get this problem resolved. It seems that maybe I’ll need to take it to an Acura dealer to have a full dx.
I found the following info on another site… I will try these things. All other suggestions were great but did not fix the problem.

1) Intake manifold, make sure every vacuum nipple has a vac line connected to it. Check for cracks in them, and make sure they are soundly plugged into something.



2) Clean out the throttle body, fast idle thermal valve, and the idle air control valve. Make sure there is no buildup that is holding the throttle plate open, that would cause the idle bounce. NOTE: If you have recently tried adjusting your throttle or gotten a new throttle body and the idle bounces, your throttle plate is most likely not closing fully, try giving some slack on the cable.

3) There are two holes on the left of the inside of that throttle body (kind of hard to see), remove the intake tube, start the engine, while it is doing the idle bounce, use your finger to plug the lower left hole completely. If the bounce stops, your FITV is bad. See below.



4) If that didn't fix the bounce, try unplugging the IACV, if that stops the bounce, then, of course, you have a bad IACV. You can try using some carb cleaner and spray it out.

5) Take the EGR valve off, clean it and clean the ports.

6) Try bleeding your coolant system. Normally when a coolant system has air in it, it will just make the engine run slightly rough because it makes the water pump capitate when the air gets down there.

7) If you get to this step, you most likely have a vacuum leak somewhere, reach your hands all around the throttle body gasket, and the IAB plate, it has gaskets both on top and bottom, see if you can feel any air moving. Also, it will be tough to get at, but the intake manifold gasket itself is the last option.



Reference
THE END OF ALL Idle Surge - Bounce - etc Problems Thread - Honda-Tech
 

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I've noticed with all three of my Acura are the problem(s) you see are sometimes the downstream effect of something else. It is like your lower back is hurting when running and you try to fix that with drugs/surgery when the problem was your worn out shoes all along. I would still take the MDX to Acura to diagnose and use that as a starting point for further troubleshooting if the problem is still unresolved. At +200,000 miles and 9-10 yrs, it is most likely going to be age related wear/tear. The good thing is once you find the problem, it will be a "one and done" fix.
 
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