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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If anyone follows this thread: http://www.mdxers.org/forums/73-first-generation-mdx-2001-2006/132305-check-engine-light.html, I posted my problem(s) over there.

Here are two more items I found (on YouTube) that I will try:

1) Take off the intake manifold to clean the EGR ports (6 of them).

2) Replace the PCV.

Hope these last two items fix the misfiring problem because I really don't want it to do the valve adjustment. A guy in YouTube said his car has 285K miles on and no valve adjustment was ever done. It may still be the direct to go, but I'm hoping the two things above clears the codes.

Stay tuned for more updates.
 

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Had the same issue and ever since the valve adjustment my engine feels brand spanking new. Idles great, picks up lovely. No regrets. I know you said you went and got one already but maybe he didn't do a good job? Was it from the dealer? Good luck man hope you fix it.

Edit: Try taking it back to the dealer and asking someone else to look at the valves or take it to a reputable shop and see if they think the valves need adjustment. Explain to them that you already went to get it adjusted but don't think the guy did it or did a good job. But then again they can say they didn't do a good job and rip you off. Or maybe take it to a different Acura or Honda dealer. Or you can call Acura and tell them you think the guy didn't do the job or didn't do a good one, they can maybe have you go to another location and have them take a look. I'd go with the last option.
 

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Wow... 285k miles and no valve adjustment? Yes, it's (way, way) past time to get the valves adjusted. It's really worth it, and the potential for creating expensive problems will be dramatically reduced. Plus, chances are very good you'll fix your misfire issues, your engine will run better, and best of all, you'll be less likely to end up with physical damage from too-tight exhaust valves.

FWIW, it's not really rocket science, and is a job that the average shade-tree mechanic can handle in a few hours with only a few tools.

I'd recommend replacing the PCV "just because" - it's dirt cheap and really, really easy to replace. So there's little reason NOT to do it. You can clean out the EGR ports while you're doing the valve adjustment. ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I want to argue with the dealer, but not sure if it's a good idea to. Maybe their technician did a horrible job or maybe he didn't even do it. Let me weigh the option for a few days and decide.
 

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Check to see if there is a Acura call center and see if they can set you up at a different dealership. I'm sure there's a warranty with the work that's done. Tell them you don't want to get into a fight with your local dealer because it'll be uncomfortable to bring your car in for the future and you would like to take it to another location and have them look it over for any errors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I know of a different Acura dealer around here. My question is: Will they care enough to check if other dealers are performing the job accurately or thoroughly as required by the specific maintenance interval? Since they don't make any profit off my complaint of other dealers, will they be interested in my case? Those are the questions run through my head.

After I thoroughly clean the six EGR ports within the manifold intake and change out the PCV and if the problem still persists afterward, I will know where to go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay, here's more update: I opened the intake manifold and to my surprise, it's nothing like the 2004 Pilot someone posted on Youtube! It's different. No EGR ports to clean or at least nothing is clogged up nor dirty at all. Put it back on. Installed new PCV valve. Within five minutes, CEL began to blink, misfire! I decided to try the procedure about resetting the ECU (removed negative battery terminal for 20 seconds, put it back on. Ignition to 2nd position for 2 seconds, then start the car and rev up to 3000 RPM for 5 minutes.) The air came out from the exhaust pipe smell horrible, like rotten egg, almost like fart (excuse my language here). No CEL yet. Gonna let the wife drive it around and see how long it takes the CEL + VTM-4 lights to come back. Hope not, but heck at this time, if the lights do come back, I'm leaning toward taking it back for a valve adjustment redo at the dealer I had it (supposedly been) done.

Taking into account that I have replaced all coils with brand new ones, so just for the heck of it, I unplugged each ignition coil one by one and see if I can tell the different sound/feel the engine makes. Cylinder (coil) 4 makes the least difference, almost can't tell at all, but just a slight different in engine feel. Cylinder 6 is almost the same way. Almost can't tell the different, but a little more noticeable than cylinder 4. Cylinders 1 and 5 makes the most difference, but remember, there was misfire in 1 throughout. Cylinders 2 and 3 are almost feel the same as 1 and 5.

It's frustrating...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update: Been driving fine for the past three months or so, Friday, the wife was driving it and suddenly the rough idling/acceleration came back with the same code as before. Remember, I changed all ignition coils. It was driving fine, then suddenly same symptom as before. What could it be now? I'm so tired of this, probably will just junk it and never go Acura/Honda again. Toyota never give any problem.
 

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You're chasing what might be a very simple problem. Part of the issue is that work was done by someone other than you, so it's not impossible that the Honda tech did a bad job adjusting your valves, or didn't change the plugs (or used the wrong ones, for that matter).

Or, it could just be some "simple" issue (I didn't say "cheap", BTW). I wonder about the rotten egg / flatulence smell you had a while ago. I've seen clogged catalytic converters cause odd problems, though usually those result in idling that's OK, but loss of power above a certain RPM.

Are the codes exactly the same (misfire on 1, 4 and 6)? That's an odd combination to have occurring all together (since so many of the things that can cause misfires are duplicated on each of the cylinder banks).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update: After clearing the CODES and restarted the SUV, got a Misfire Cylinder 4. Swapped ignition coil for cylinder 4 with one from what I swapped out three months ago. As soon as I started the vehicle, I knew that was it. So, the new ignition coil for Cylinder 4 went bad. Cheap brand runs cheap, I guess. Now, all is well again.
 
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