I also had a broken sway bar (right rear) -- they kept the car and gave me a loner 'til they got the right part in stock. They were originally shipped the wrong part in the right box.
Rail
Rail
Broken Sway bar
Hi.
I just want to know if anyone has the same problem as me :
I have broken sway bar in the rear driver's side and the dealer I went to told me that the part is in back-order and they don't know when they will get.
Anyone knows if it is dangerous or harmful to the car by keeping driving with a broken sway bar ? The service guy told me it is ok beause the sway bar just keep the car from leaning in a turn. But every time I make a right turn where there is a curb I heard a "scrubbing kind of noise" but no noise when there is no curb.
The other is weeping mirror. Does anyone have probem (wind noise) after fixing it ? I want to get it done but afraid of the probem afterward.
I just want to know if anyone has the same problem as me :
I have broken sway bar in the rear driver's side and the dealer I went to told me that the part is in back-order and they don't know when they will get.
Anyone knows if it is dangerous or harmful to the car by keeping driving with a broken sway bar ? The service guy told me it is ok beause the sway bar just keep the car from leaning in a turn. But every time I make a right turn where there is a curb I heard a "scrubbing kind of noise" but no noise when there is no curb.
The other is weeping mirror. Does anyone have probem (wind noise) after fixing it ? I want to get it done but afraid of the probem afterward.
1 - 20 of 145 Posts
Hey, if you two wouldn't mind, can you let us know the symptoms of a broken swaybar, and do a 'sway bar' entry over in the kbase?
I know there've been a handful of people with "rear end noise" (unrelated to diet).
Re: weeping mirrors...I haven't heard of anyone complaining about additional windnoise after the fix. As I said in the weeping mirror thread, the worst case is the dealer has a do-over.
I know there've been a handful of people with "rear end noise" (unrelated to diet).
Re: weeping mirrors...I haven't heard of anyone complaining about additional windnoise after the fix. As I said in the weeping mirror thread, the worst case is the dealer has a do-over.
Rail,
My dealer told me the part is in back order. It may take one week or even more (4 weeks) to get it. That is why they let me take the car back.
What about you dealer ?
My dealer told me the part is in back order. It may take one week or even more (4 weeks) to get it. That is why they let me take the car back.
What about you dealer ?
I took mine in for the E-Brake to be adjusted and mentioned that the MDX "creaked" when I made a left turn... they found the break in the sway bar and told me they were going to keep the car -- which took them 4 days to get the part and replace it.
I'm not sure if it was dangerous or not to drive with the broken sway bar.
Regards.
Rail
I'm not sure if it was dangerous or not to drive with the broken sway bar.
Regards.
Rail
Just an observation......
It looks to me like the endlink is the broken piece, not the bar. This would make more sense because the endlinks or chassis mounts are usually the weakpoints not the bar itself.
It looks to me like the endlink is the broken piece, not the bar. This would make more sense because the endlinks or chassis mounts are usually the weakpoints not the bar itself.
Broken Tie Rod
Well,
You can add me to the list of MDX owners that have had their tie rod break. Mine broke as I was pulling into my driverway. I heard a very, very, loud "BANG" from the rear right (driver side) At first I thought I had hit something, so did my son. Upon inspection, I could clearly see the broken Tie Rod. The next day, Saturday, I called my dealer and he said no problem, ok to drive, bring it in. They gave a loner and 4 hours later it was done. So, the question is, why did my tough SUV break it's tie rod during normal driving. My service tech said he had already replaced a few and since he had the part in stock I assume it's becoming a common problem. He also said the tie rod is too thin and should be made thicker. The picture posted on this board looks exactly like the one I took. Anyway, I'm a little bummed about this whole thing even though its fixed now. Just to be clear, the sway bar did not break, just the tie rod that connects to the sway bar.
Well,
You can add me to the list of MDX owners that have had their tie rod break. Mine broke as I was pulling into my driverway. I heard a very, very, loud "BANG" from the rear right (driver side) At first I thought I had hit something, so did my son. Upon inspection, I could clearly see the broken Tie Rod. The next day, Saturday, I called my dealer and he said no problem, ok to drive, bring it in. They gave a loner and 4 hours later it was done. So, the question is, why did my tough SUV break it's tie rod during normal driving. My service tech said he had already replaced a few and since he had the part in stock I assume it's becoming a common problem. He also said the tie rod is too thin and should be made thicker. The picture posted on this board looks exactly like the one I took. Anyway, I'm a little bummed about this whole thing even though its fixed now. Just to be clear, the sway bar did not break, just the tie rod that connects to the sway bar.
I believe that's a stabilizer link, if a tie-rod broke you might not be here to write your story. Sorry, didn't mean to get too picky.
Maybe it should be thicker, but if really 'under engineered' it should be breaking on a lot more MDXs unless they had a bad batch which is more likely.
Maybe it should be thicker, but if really 'under engineered' it should be breaking on a lot more MDXs unless they had a bad batch which is more likely.
BINGO!
By the way the problem with the STABILIZER LINK is probably from a manufacturing defect( typically the subcontractor making the links welds the ends on and this requires close inspection to be sure the weld is done right before the parts are painted) or problem with the bushing assembly which causes excessive twisting force on the stabilizer link so it will not move in the plane it was designed to, and eventaully stress fracture. This is consistent with the break occuring close to the mounting point, as shown in the photo. If it were under engineered t would probably fail up in the shaft area. Also, if the stabilizer(sway bar) itself BROKE it would indicate improper metalurgy, as the bar is HUGE.
As to safety -- no vehicle is undriveable without the stabilizer(sway bar) BUT it can (will) feel much less confidant when cornering. I would also worry about the broken link smacking around and leading to more damage. Not surprising that the shop would keep it, as probably 75% of mechanics would not feel right driving it without the bar/links. The other 25% would just corner at lower speeds...
Same thing was bugging me too -- it is NOT being too picky; suppose you go to service writer (who admittedly sometimes are pretty thick themselves) claiming "I got a busted tie rod". Well, they will FREAK OUT, because you would have little or no ability to STEER. They then find out from tech that it was a busted stabilizer link, and think "Nut case customer doesn't know his _ _ _ from a hole in the ground..."DaleB said:I believe that's a stabilizer link, if a tie-rod broke you might not be here to write your story. Sorry, didn't mean to get too picky.
Maybe it should be thicker, but if really 'under engineered' it should be breaking on a lot more MDXs unless they had a bad batch which is more likely.
By the way the problem with the STABILIZER LINK is probably from a manufacturing defect( typically the subcontractor making the links welds the ends on and this requires close inspection to be sure the weld is done right before the parts are painted) or problem with the bushing assembly which causes excessive twisting force on the stabilizer link so it will not move in the plane it was designed to, and eventaully stress fracture. This is consistent with the break occuring close to the mounting point, as shown in the photo. If it were under engineered t would probably fail up in the shaft area. Also, if the stabilizer(sway bar) itself BROKE it would indicate improper metalurgy, as the bar is HUGE.
As to safety -- no vehicle is undriveable without the stabilizer(sway bar) BUT it can (will) feel much less confidant when cornering. I would also worry about the broken link smacking around and leading to more damage. Not surprising that the shop would keep it, as probably 75% of mechanics would not feel right driving it without the bar/links. The other 25% would just corner at lower speeds...
Given all that, hopefully their acceptance criteria for tie-rods is more stringent than it is for stabilizer links.
No, not the Tie Rod
Here's the deal on my busted "tie Rod". Since reading the posts here I got my invoice and you all are correct, it was not the tie rod. It was the left rear Linkage Arm, just like in the picture. In fact if any one cares, here's the part number: 52325-S3V-003. My service Tech first called it the Tie rod and I did'nt check the part description. Untill now. Thanks to all. I'am still bummed, but at least I'm not alone. Renov8r, The customer does'nt have to know his ___ from a hole in the wall because in the final analysis it's up to the service tech to find and correct the problem.
Here's the deal on my busted "tie Rod". Since reading the posts here I got my invoice and you all are correct, it was not the tie rod. It was the left rear Linkage Arm, just like in the picture. In fact if any one cares, here's the part number: 52325-S3V-003. My service Tech first called it the Tie rod and I did'nt check the part description. Untill now. Thanks to all. I'am still bummed, but at least I'm not alone. Renov8r, The customer does'nt have to know his ___ from a hole in the wall because in the final analysis it's up to the service tech to find and correct the problem.
Forged or cast...
On competition vehicles that use links, they'll use CrMo tubing threaded for adjustability, with forged ends. I suspect the link ends of the MDX are forged and theb welded to mild steel tubing. Perfectly acceptable as long as the inspection is thorough. They might want to have other than visula inspection to verify integretity - though these are 'non-critical' items and probably cheap to replace as well.
That is generally the "standard" for critical safety items...DaleB said:Given all that, hopefully their acceptance criteria for tie-rods is more stringent than it is for stabilizer links.
On competition vehicles that use links, they'll use CrMo tubing threaded for adjustability, with forged ends. I suspect the link ends of the MDX are forged and theb welded to mild steel tubing. Perfectly acceptable as long as the inspection is thorough. They might want to have other than visula inspection to verify integretity - though these are 'non-critical' items and probably cheap to replace as well.
Didn't mean to suggest anything...
You are dead-on, it ought not matter if the customer doesn't know what broke.
...I was more concerned about giving folks a "heads-up" that this is NOT a critical safety item.jst4fun said:Here's the deal on my busted "tie Rod". Since reading the posts here I got my invoice and you all are correct, it was not the tie rod. It was the left rear Linkage Arm, just like in the picture. In fact if any one cares, here's the part number: 52325-S3V-003. My service Tech first called it the Tie rod and I did'nt check the part description. Untill now. Thanks to all. I'am still bummed, but at least I'm not alone. Renov8r, The customer does'nt have to know his ___ from a hole in the wall because in the final analysis it's up to the service tech to find and correct the problem.
You are dead-on, it ought not matter if the customer doesn't know what broke.
Since it is the rear link that has broken, it should not be a hazard at street speed. This will cause the MDX to push or understeer. Since you probably are not sliding around much through corners this should not be harmfull for a short time. I still would be carefull at speed. If the front link broke it would be a different story since that would likely create oversteer.
BH
BH
here is another
Mine is in for the same thing as pictured above. The service tech called it a broken drag link.
Mine is in for the same thing as pictured above. The service tech called it a broken drag link.
Curious
What year X's are we talking about? '01, '02 or both?
If there was a defect, then hopefully it has been rectified
by Acura already. If not, and this keeps on occurring then
a TCB and possible recall might be in order.
What year X's are we talking about? '01, '02 or both?
If there was a defect, then hopefully it has been rectified
by Acura already. If not, and this keeps on occurring then
a TCB and possible recall might be in order.
What Year
My X is an 02. Have not heard of any TSBs yet.
My X is an 02. Have not heard of any TSBs yet.
Re: What Year
Color and model and w/ or w.o NAV can be helpful too.
This is a good point, and brings out the advantage of members putting the year of their MDX in the signature information block.jst4fun said:My X is an 02. Have not heard of any TSBs yet.
Color and model and w/ or w.o NAV can be helpful too.
1 - 20 of 145 Posts
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