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Acura rear AC

Yes, I think it is. After I replaced the little coil thing to get the rear a/c back up and running, my fan for the rear a/c went out:) LOL:) It is real easy to get to (pull the panel off by the front passenger seat just below the shift selector) so I pulled the fan out and it turned out to be bad brushes in the fan motor. Here we go (Acura wants 200.00 for a new fan motor and that seems the only place you can get one) So, I took the fan motor down to a little electrial motor shop and they gave me some new brushes for about 3.00 and some change. Well, it worked for a while but ultimetley I ended up buying a new motor:) Other then a couple of dash lights going out everything seems to be working well at this time and I am running on 116,000 plus:)
 

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Rear AC fixed

I finally took my '01 MDX in this morning to have the rear AC fixed. The problem was the transistor. Based on some earlier posts, I thought my blower might be bad, but that was not the case.

My dealer is Mac Churchill in Fort Worth. I am about 6K miles out of warranty and asked my service advisor what the odds were of getting it fixed under warranty since I wasn't very far above 50K. He said that they would take care of it since I had used them for my 15,30 and 45K maintenance. Less than an hour and I was on my way. Based on some of the horror stories regarding other dealers and their service departments, I can't say enough good things about my dealings with this dealer.

Wade
2001 MDX
 

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whoa, this seems to be more of a problem than Acura first realized.....thanks for all your input on this. Mine is fine, but this is reminiscent of the weeping mirror problem in the 2001.....a few, then a lot of people commented on the same problem.....maybe Acura will issue a TSB for this as well....
 

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weepin mirror?

Not familiar with that one but, is it the high pitch noise that is made when you are driving over 55 in a pretty strong wind? Very curios about this as my 01 MDX has done this since day one and I am on 116,000 miles now:)
 

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Re: weepin mirror?

pointman said:
Not familiar with that one but, is it the high pitch noise that is made when you are driving over 55 in a pretty strong wind? Very curios about this as my 01 MDX has done this since day one and I am on 116,000 miles now:)
Lots of info on it here...do some searches....mostly related to the front windshield (thinner glass & seal) .. putting window screening spline in the 'groove' around the window seal seemed to help.
Repositioning the roof rack beginning in 02 seemed to quiet things down also.
116K miles, that's great!
 

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Great:) Thanks for the info:)

Has anyone heard anything yet on the next gen MDX that is supposed to be coming out in the fall of 05? I did hear that it should have the same 300hp engine that is coming out in the new RL
 

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How to replace transistor

All,

Like the above posts, my rear fan is not working, even in manual mode. The fuse is fine, and the vent selection buttons light up in manual mode.

So, I want to first figure out where this transitor is that might need replacing.

I removed the lower panel on the drivers side, below the gear shift. I also remove the plood on the gear shift. I also took out the drink holder.

Can some one tell me what else needs to be removed so that I can locate this transistor? Also exactly where is it? How big is it?

I also don't know how to take the center console apart, any more that it already is.

Help!

rflagg
 

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The only trim piece you need to remove is the plastic side of the center console, which goes from the firewall to the front of the seat. After moving the seat back, pull out at the front, popping the clips and remove the panel. The transistor is located inside of a boot-shaped opening near the front of the seat (right of the blower intake screen). The TSB suggests wearing protective gloves while removing this item. Reach into the hole, depress the lock tab, allowing the transistor to turn clockwise. Once it's free, pull it partway out and disconnect the harness. You need to then do a resistance test to see if it's working correctly or not. PM me for a copy of the TSB if you'd like to see pictures or more instructions for removal.
 

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rear a/c inop

The transistor is bad. It is located under the shifter console, and can be changed out easily by pulling off the side console cover.:4:
 

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It's important to note that the whole system seems to be occasionally flaky, so although the transistor is a TSB item, it's not always the culprit. Mine has the exact same symptoms as rflagg's, however my transistor tested fine so it's probably another component. According to the TSB, there are over 50 pages in the service manual about troubleshooting the system.
 

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Transistor

Ours has been fixed and they replaced the transistor. The service order read...”replaced transistor per service bulletin”.

Niles
 

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I just joined the "Rear A/C Not Working Club"

67,000 KM - kids noticed it, who knows how long ago it happened.

Got a call into the dealer.
 

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ByeByeChrysler said:
I just joined the "Rear A/C Not Working Club"

67,000 KM - kids noticed it, who knows how long ago it happened.

Got a call into the dealer.
it was the transistor, $25 deductable with my extended warranty fixed it.

if a TSB was issued, shouldn't it be free to fix??
 

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Rear Ac problem

I had same problem with rear AC on 2002 MDX. Turned out the thermal fuse by the power transistor was blown. Cost me 99 cent to fix it. The hardest part was to find the fuse with same temp and amp ratings.
 

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Mine just went out too. I've already made an appointment with my dealer since I'm still under warranty (46K).
 

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Rear A/C Troubleshooting

The rear A/C on my MDX recently stopped working at 56,000 miles. I tried to sweet talk the local dealer into covering it under warranty - no luck. Last night I started troubleshooting the problem myself. Fuses are all fine. I ran the self diagnostic on the rear A/C unit, which showed no trouble codes (all I got was the initial 2 second illumination of the upper lamp, followed by nothing). I then pulled both the left and right panels off the center console. I removed the fan motor plug, and checked voltage. Voltage across the plug connectors was a constant 12 Volts, regardless of what position the fan motor speed or Rear A/C control switches were set. This was a little confusing as I thought the voltage should vary with fan speed setting. I then checked the fan motor with an external battery and it worked fine. On the left side of the console, near the fan intake, I am only able to find a relay. The relay contacts sound like they click in and out when I disconnect and reconnect the connector. I did not see anywhere inside the console a resistor board or other device to regulate fan speed. One odd item I should mention is that when I touch the fan motor power connector to the fan motor, I get a small electrical response, maybe enough to turn the fan a quarter turn. I can repeatedly make and break contact with the connector to get the fan running at a slow speed. I have temporarily wired a plug directly from the fan motor to a cigarette lighter jack as a temporary fix. My wife can now plug the rear a/c fan into the cigarette lighter to keep the kids cool until I figure this out. I would really appreciate it if anyone has any input as to what the problem may be and where the fan control transistor/resistor assembly is mounted; the only electrical device I can find near the fan motor is the before mentioned relay block. I hate to shell out $90 to the dealer for a transistor that may or may not be the problem, and I am sure that constantly plugging/unplugging the rear fan is going to get old quick with the wife. Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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Rear Ac problem

JFix, like I said in my earlier post problem with my rear AC was bad thermal fuse. I am not sure if you check that one or not, it is the fuse inside of transistor assembly, not under the dashboard. It is very easy to check if the fuse is good or bad. Just place the Ohm meter leads across the fuse and if resistance is infinite it is bad. I am 99% sure this is the problem, if not your transistor is bad and you will need to buy whole new assembly from the dealer, as there is almost impossible to cross reference this transistor. Like I said before it cost me 99 cents to fix this problem and about 30 min of my time. The hardest part is to find correct fuse: 2A 114C ratings as normal electronics store does not carry them. Will try to post some pictures, this is my first time posting them so I am not sure if it will work on first try. I hope this helps.
 
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