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Discussion Starter #1
Brakes shudder at speeds over 50 mph when braking, anyone else having the same problem?
 

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Likely a warped rotor. Not common, but it does happen, especially if sometime in the recent past the brakes were overheated. Of course your braking habbits can also contribute to the problem. You or someone needs to check them using a dial indicator.
 

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Pretty much been an issue with every Acura I've had since 2006. My issue was caused by uneven deposits of OEM pad material on rotors creating hi/low spots you feel during braking. It can take as little as 30,000 miles or up past +75,000 miles to feel it depending on driving habits/environments. This seems to be main cause for previous Acuras. Turning the rotors will fix the issue; but, it will return in about the same amount of time if your driving habits are the same. I'm usually around 75,000 miles before I feel the brake shudder with my driving habits with OEM set-up.

Changing out pads and/or rotors to aftermarket seems to help reduce or eliminate that brake shudder. I did aftermarket rotors and pads on my 11 MDX at 30,000 miles and had zero issues with brake shudder with +143,000 miles now.
 

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Same thing happened to my new "Defected" rotor, terrible shaking from steering wheel when braking to exit the freeway, I noticed the front right wheel, the new pads didn't sit flush with the rotor when i took off the wheel for inspection, autozone repalced 2 new front rotors and new front pad, problem solved.
 

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I Just purchase a 2017 mdx certified a month ago and yesturday notice the shaking at over 45MPH. Tacking it back to the dealer as this is part of their certification check.
Has to be the roters.
 

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Pretty much been an issue with every Acura I've had since 2006. My issue was caused by uneven deposits of OEM pad material on rotors creating hi/low spots you feel during braking. It can take as little as 30,000 miles or up past +75,000 miles to feel it depending on driving habits/environments. This seems to be main cause for previous Acuras. Turning the rotors will fix the issue; but, it will return in about the same amount of time if your driving habits are the same. I'm usually around 75,000 miles before I feel the brake shudder with my driving habits with OEM set-up.

Changing out pads and/or rotors to aftermarket seems to help reduce or eliminate that brake shudder. I did aftermarket rotors and pads on my 11 MDX at 30,000 miles and had zero issues with brake shudder with +143,000 miles now.
+1, but to add to it the root cause in most cases is pad material transfer to the rotors which causes high spots that simulate a warped rotor. For DIY people this can be remedied by sanding the rotors to remove the material, but just like turning the rotors this is only temporary, especially if your braking habits remain the same. Hard braking to a complete stop then holding the pads against the hot rotors causes the material transfer. If you can teach your self to stop just short enough of the car or stop light in front of you so that you can continue a slow roll forward instead of coming to a complete stop after a hard braking situation that can help, but those situations are tough to control. Finding an aftermarket pad that resists that material transfer and then "bedding" the pads has done the trick for me. Currently using Centric ceramic pads from RockAuto and premium ceramic from Napa Auto parts with good success.
 

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+1, but to add to it the root cause in most cases is pad material transfer to the rotors which causes high spots that simulate a warped rotor. For DIY people this can be remedied by sanding the rotors to remove the material, but just like turning the rotors this is only temporary, especially if your braking habits remain the same. Hard braking to a complete stop then holding the pads against the hot rotors causes the material transfer. If you can teach your self to stop just short enough of the car or stop light in front of you so that you can continue a slow roll forward instead of coming to a complete stop after a hard braking situation that can help, but those situations are tough to control. Finding an aftermarket pad that resists that material transfer and then "bedding" the pads has done the trick for me. Currently using Centric ceramic pads from RockAuto and premium ceramic from Napa Auto parts with good success.
+1 for stopping a little short on hwy off ramps and creeping forward a few feet to re-position the hot pads on the rotors is what I learned to do that seems to help delay the warped rotor sensation.
 
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Very common problem for MDXs......To do complete brake job replace both brake pads and rotors, as a set. They don't make them like they use to.
 

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Just replaced front two rotors as the used MDX we bought had super tightly torqued wheel lug nuts on one side. I think that's what warped the rotor. Felt slight vibration at low city speeds during test drive, but driving through the mountains, hard braking left the whole front end shake like crazy. Didn't change the pads as they looked like they were recently replaced by previous owner. $120 well spent, DIY, plus a couple of broken bits to remove rotor screws.
 

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A few years ago, took my MDX to a dealer and they: 1) resurfaced front rotors and 2) replace the bearing - all under acuracare - which seemed to fix the issue. This shuddering is coming back a bit (at higher speeds and "hard" braking) and I will be replacing rotors and pads soon so not too worried.
 

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I Just purchase a 2017 mdx certified a month ago and yesturday notice the shaking at over 45MPH. Tacking it back to the dealer as this is part of their certification check.
Has to be the roters.
When to the dealership and they replaced routers and pads at no cost since is part of the certification process. Shacking is gone!!!!!
shimmering fix is Routers and pads replacement.
 

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On my 2017, mine are warped or coated too. I am not gonna worry about it till I need new pads. It does bug me though.
 

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Ditto.. each acura/honda I own has issues with the brake rotor. I had almost all of them replaced under goodwill and the TSX even had TSB on bad rotors. I brake the same way on my BMW, I never had warp rotors on original BMW or brembo blanks. The TSX, after switching to aftermarket rotors, no issue. Doing the same on this MDX
 

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Try loosening the lug nuts and then re-torque them in a "star" pattern, using 85-90 ft. pounds of torque. In lieu of a torque wrench, just tighten them tightly, but not insanely so, using the star pattern. The dealer might have used too much air wrench power to put them on and that might cause some rotor warping, which might go away some with a proper tightening.
 

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I was having the same issues and on a trip this past weekend it finally got on my nerves enough to do something about the shaking steering wheel. The MDX has 35K miles. I was just gonna get the rotors turned (resurfaced), but I talked to my mechanic and he said I could buy them under his acct to save $$ and to just replace everything with good aftermarket brakes. So I bought the AutoZone Duralast Gold rotors and pads. I just got finished bedding the brakes and the brakes are cooling off now for an hour, then they should be good to go. My mechanic said that resurfacing brakes was fine but after I spent an hour waiting or driving back and forth it wouldn't be worth my time and that the Duralast Gold brake kit (rotor and pads) was a better set up than Honda/Acura. So instead of paying $40 for resurfacing I spent $140 and got all new stuff. Took me about an hr to do all the work. I also sucked the brake fluid out of the brake reservoir and put in fresh fluid, which I will do again in a few weeks. This should be almost as good as bleeding them after a couple times doing it. I know it won't get all the fluid out but its so much easier and cleaner to do it that way.
 
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