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There are better options for sure..
OEM is made by Akebono so if you find Akebono aftermarket alternatives they are relatively the same as OEM.

It all depends what you want to do with the MDX...
EBC has in its line up:
Ultimax2 (OEM Equivalent)
GreenStuff 6000 (Better than OEM)
GreenStuff 7000 HD (Superior than OEM with Great pad Life)
YellowStuff (Track Pad with way more than you need, Pad Life is low and dust is insane)

What is missing here is the RedStuffs which is their middle way line up.. Perhaps since the MDX is too heavy they went with the Organic GreenStuffs and bumped up the formula instead that is what the 7000HD are for, Trucks and SUVs.

The YellowStuff is simply overkill for most uses, I installed those in my TL-S and the braking power is simply out of this world. But they have 3 Cons which are a huge compromises.
1.- They hardly work when Cold, This is noticeable when the car is cold the car will brake with less power than OEM when Cold and they Squeak until Hot.
2.- Too Much Dust, You will have to clean your wheels every single day.
3.- Insanely Low Pad Life, I went through the complete YellowStuffs in simple daily driving in 6 months they also reduced my Rotor Life significantly.

In short get the GreenStuffs 7000HD and call it a day.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
We just drive normally as family car. So GreenStuff 7000 HD is good perfect for our driving pattern/requirement ?

Plus any recommendation for Rotors?

Thanks much for your detailed response
 

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There are better options for sure..
OEM is made by Akebono so if you find Akebono aftermarket alternatives they are relatively the same as OEM.

It all depends what you want to do with the MDX...
EBC has in its line up:
Ultimax2 (OEM Equivalent)
GreenStuff 6000 (Better than OEM)
GreenStuff 7000 HD (Superior than OEM with Great pad Life)
YellowStuff (Track Pad with way more than you need, Pad Life is low and dust is insane)

What is missing here is the RedStuffs which is their middle way line up.. Perhaps since the MDX is too heavy they went with the Organic GreenStuffs and bumped up the formula instead that is what the 7000HD are for, Trucks and SUVs.

The YellowStuff is simply overkill for most uses, I installed those in my TL-S and the braking power is simply out of this world. But they have 3 Cons which are a huge compromises.
1.- They hardly work when Cold, This is noticeable when the car is cold the car will brake with less power than OEM when Cold and they Squeak until Hot.
2.- Too Much Dust, You will have to clean your wheels every single day.
3.- Insanely Low Pad Life, I went through the complete YellowStuffs in simple daily driving in 6 months they also reduced my Rotor Life significantly.

In short get the GreenStuffs 7000HD and call it a day.


may i say awesome and very very useful info??!!!!
 

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We just drive normally as family car. So GreenStuff 7000 HD is good perfect for our driving pattern/requirement ?

Plus any recommendation for Rotors?

Thanks much for your detailed response

I sincerely haven´t tested any rotors on the MDX since I only changed the Pads so far, I am still using OEM Rotors and so far they have been working alright.. I was used to warping the OEM Rotors on my TL-S but the MDX seems to be stronger in this area, They use the largest rotors Honda has ever put in a car after all (If you don´t count the new NSX ;) ).

What I used before in my TLS is the EBC 3GD Rotors but I believe they don´t make them for the MDX.. If I were to buy new rotors today I would probably go with the Stop-Tech Drilled + Cryo Treated rotors since I have seen pretty good reviews on those.
 

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As Skirmich said you cant go wrong with ebc brake pads. As for rotors, they currently don't have any available for our years yet but I would grab Alien rotors if they start making them. EBC pads and Alien Rotors had my 6.5 gen maxima stopping on a dime.
 

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When it comes to brake pads there's typically a tradeoff between cold/hot stopping performance, dust, noise, longevity, and cost. Some members here like the more peformance oriented pads because they actually see and feel the benefits for their type of driving (i.e. spirited driving, driving in mountains, towing, hot climate, etc). The EBC pads mentioned are highly rated in pretty much all categories, but the tradeoff is that they cost almost double what the OEM pads go for.

If you're not super particular about how the brakes perform and are satisfied with the OEM braking performance, you can go with the OEM pads again or pick an aftermarket pad that isn't as performance oriented. For my cars, I typically pick aftermarket pads that perform just as good, if not better, than the OEM pads in most aspects. I personally don't mind how the OEM pads perform, but at the same time I think they're just a tad overpriced for what they offer. If you want a general idea of the kinds of pads I would be shopping for, check out rockauto.com. In the brake section for the '14 MDX, I'd be looking at the models under the "Premium (OE Quality)" and "Performance" category. Even some of the models in the "Daily Driver" category aren't bad, but it's not as easy to tell which ones are the better ones.

As for the rotors, I'll echo the same sentiment as I did with the brake pads. I'm fine with how OEM Honda/Acura rotors perform for my type of driving. But when I change them out, I'll most likely pick up an aftermarket set. My personal favorites are the Raybestos Advanced Technology line, followed closely by the Centric Premium line. I've had good experience with both. Again, if you don't require the extra performance, they should suit you fine. I find them to be a great value for what they offer.

Keep in mind that unless you have an issue with the rotors, or if your rotors are well above the minimum allowable thickness, you might not even need to replace them.
 

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Hey Guys,

I know this posts are very old but i am thinking to replace the brake pads on my 2016 MDX/Tech AWD, at 52K and never replace or flush brake fluid.
I don't have any noises yet but the brakes doesn't bite like when the vehicle is new. I am not sure because the pads are worn or do i need the flush the brake fluid?

When stops, it doesn't seem like the brakes bite in immediately, hope ya know what i'm talking about. So i am not sure due to the pads or need a new brake fluid or rotors?

Please advice.
Thanks
 

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Although you should do the brake fluid flush, which is easy to do, I doubt it'll make any noticeable change in what you feel when applying the brakes. The main reason for the flush is to eliminate any built-up moisture and contaminants in the fluid.

I just checked my pads, which are original, at around the 43K mile point. They have about 1/4" of material left on them so I deemed them still fine for now but at 52K miles yours is that much more used than mine but of course how the pads wear depends on the types of roads you primarily drive on (lots of easy freeway miles vs stop and go), your habits/technique in brake application, and the ambient temperature, as well as other things like how heavily loaded the vehicle is, whether you drive frequently in hilly/mountainous terrain, etc.

Most likely you're ready for a brake job fairly soon. If nothing else, check on them yourself or have them checked.
 

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Although you should do the brake fluid flush, which is easy to do, I doubt it'll make any noticeable change in what you feel when applying the brakes. The main reason for the flush is to eliminate any built-up moisture and contaminants in the fluid.

I just checked my pads, which are original, at around the 43K mile point. They have about 1/4" of material left on them so I deemed them still fine for now but at 52K miles yours is that much more used than mine but of course how the pads wear depends on the types of roads you primarily drive on (lots of easy freeway miles vs stop and go), your habits/technique in brake application, and the ambient temperature, as well as other things like how heavily loaded the vehicle is, whether you drive frequently in hilly/mountainous terrain, etc.

Most likely you're ready for a brake job fairly soon. If nothing else, check on them yourself or have them checked.
yeah, that's what i'm plan to do the brake fluid flush first, then see if I need to replace the brake pads.
So for the Brake fluid flush pattern on 2016 MDX should be
-Rear Passenger
-Rear Driver
-Front Driver and
-Front Passenger

For the Brake pads, I am thinking to get the EBC GreenStuff 7000 Series with the motors? I am just change the front brakes only or do both front and rear brake pads?

Thanks
 

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^^ When I checked my brakes I noticed the fronts and rears were equally worn -i.e. they were all at around 1/4", meaning that they should all be replaced at the same time.

Lately I've been replacing the rotors when I do the pads (other vehicles - I haven't replaced the brakes on the MDX yet). Modern rotors tend to be 'one use' type rotors where they often can't be turned even one time and stay within spec. They're also much less expensive than the rotors of yesteryear. Since you've already gone over 50K on your brakes I think the additional cost to replace the rotors likely isn't a huge deal although they're not inexpensive. Acura rotors online appear to be about $115 each. Aftermarket rotors and be 50-75% of that cost. The problem with not replacing or resurfacing the rotors when changing pads is that the rotors will have some imperfections and not mate perfectly with the pads. You'll also be very disappointed if you get 10K-20K more miles into the new pads and 'then' find out the rotors are worn to the point where they need to be replaced and you need to replace the pads all over again (you should always replace the pads with new rotors). You'll also be disappointed if you end up with a braking feel that's not very smooth.

If you want to save money on the rotors you can always check them to see how far off spec they are and see if they have room for being resurfaced.

I've been happy enough with the factory pads and will likely do the replacement with factory pads. I've run into some issues with some aftermarket pads regardless of how high tech they're supposed to be. Sometimes they don't brake as well, sometimes leave too much dust, sometimes squeak, etc.

I think I did the flush order differently than the standard 'furthest first'. I read somewhere that for the MDX it's recommended to do the fronts first then the rears. I can't remember the side but I'm sure you can find it quickly enough by googling it or someone may post it here. In reality, I don't think it really matters that much. The main point is to flush most of the old fluid out, replacing it with new fluid. I used fluid I bought from Acura and I think I went ahead and bought 3 bottles of it, which was enough.
 

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On my hondas/acuras I have always done driver front, pass front, pass rear and driver rear. This conforms to previous owners manuals. It may have changed with the new generation but I doubt it. Good luck!
 
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As an FYI - the 2015 we bought had warped rotors. The dealer turned them and the pulsing went away. I was going to just replace the fronts and pads but since they did it under the purchase warranty I just went with it. The old part number on the front rotors has been changed and I am told that was because the new ones are less prone to warping than the older part number. With ABS, many pads are pretty much pads - if the factory pads will trigger ABS, and you add double that strength it won't stop you faster because the ABS limits how much braking can occur. As to fade, the factory pads get stronger as they heat up. I got them pretty hot a couple times trying to see if bedding them would stop the rotor shudder - it did but only when really hot. That tells me that they have some sintered iron in them although I have not looked at a pair off the car. We used to get our sintered icon racing pads, and steel rotors up to glowing orange on the track without fade. Factory brakes are pretty rugged other than the bad run of warping rotors.
 

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2016 MDX with 22k miles and had to change out rotors and break pads

Hi,

I have a 2016 MDX with 22k miles, I recently took it in for a B1 service and mentioned that the car shakes when going at least 40mph and breaking to slow down. Service adviser said my pads were still really good, but I would have to change it out after I get the rotors resurfaced. Do any of you have this problem? Will I have to change my rotors and breaks every 22k miles? I had the same problem with the 2014 MDX. I'm going to have to rethink if I want to keep this car or not. Spending 300 for rotors and pads every 22k miles is not cost effective or ideal for me. I've never had this problem with my 2005 Honda Pilot. Suggestions or input?
 

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It's 'brakes' - not 'breaks'.

I have 44K on my 2014 MDX and don't have a problem with the original brakes. I checked them not long ago and still have about 1/4 inch left on the pads. The rotors aren't causing shuddering for me.

There have been a few other posts from people who have had shuddering brakes and in some cases had the rotors/pads replaced under warranty but you may be out of the warranty period at this point.

If you have shuddering to the point where it's bothersome or a safety issue then the only fix is to resurface the rotors, if they even have enough room on them to be resurfaced (often they don't), or replace the rotors - or at least the warped rotor that's causing the problem (it might only be one). The brake pads s/b changed if the rotors are resurfaced/replaced.

You might not have to do this every 22K and ideally won't need to. The rotors these are replaced with could be of better quality and whatever caused a rotor warpage may not occur next time.
 

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my 2014 did not have shudder. The 2015 did. Both were under 30,000 miles. The 2014 had been turned before I bought it. The 2015 had not. The dealer turned the rotors and reused the pads because they weren't all that worn. I authorized it because when the pads wear out I will replace the rotors. Be aware that Acura has superseded the rotor part number recently. Dealer told me that is a known issue and the newer part number is supposed to fix the problem, so will turning the old rotors. BTW is it a coin toss which is best because the old rotors are seasoned already by the heat.
 

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Be aware that Acura has superseded the rotor part number recently. Dealer told me that is a known issue and the newer part number is supposed to fix the problem
Thanks for that info - good to know. Do you happen to have the numbers? If I was to go to the dealer to buy rotors and they had the old ones still in stock I don't doubt they'd go ahead and pull them off the shelf to fulfill my purchase.
 
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