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Discussion Starter #1
It’s time to change the brake fluid . Does it matter if I get it from dealer or have the independent shop change it as long as it’s recommend type .
When brake fluid is changed , is it recommended to just have drain and refill or bleed the brakes to get the old fluid out .
 

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The maintenance item simply says to “replace brake fluid every 3 years”. To me, that would mean bleeding out everything and replacing it all with new fluid. Why mix it up, especially when it’s only required every 3 years.

An independent garage should be fine, but get them to use Acura recommended fluids and to clearly document on the invoice the work that was done and the fluids used.

I have all my work (other than warranty work) done at my local garage. I’ve used that mechanic for 16 years, and I trust him completely. He has never done me wrong. He makes sure to document everything in detail on the invoices for me so that I have them in case.


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IMO just make sure you use a quality Honda compatible fluid. +1 on the full bleed procedure. To be effective you need the lines to have new fluid in them as well. Brake fluid does not circulate like other fluids, so barring a leak near the end of the line replacing the fluid at the reservoir doesn't really accomplish anything. Suck as much of the old fluid out of the reservoir before starting to bleed each line. Some report a soft pedal after a fluid change and solving it by driving on a gravel or other surface that makes it easy to engage the ABS then activating the ABS several times. If you still have a soft pedal after engaging the ABS re-bleed the lines and repeat engaging the ABS.
 

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Mmm... not sure if you have really been bleeding after sucking the reservoir dry, but I think you meant suck the old fluid out but fill the reservoir up with NEW fluid before you start bleeding and check each corner while you bleed to make sure the reservoir isn't empty...
 

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I did it myself and used the owner's manual recommended genuine Acura/Honda brake fluid. I sucked out as much of the old fluid from the master cylinder as I could while making sure there's still some covering the bottom so as not to introduce air, then filled if with new fluid, then bled the brakes at all 4 corners until I could see the new fluid coming out, topping off the master cylinder as necessary.

I then logged what I did in the service log I keep for the vehicle.

You could have this done at an Acura dealership, independent mechanic, or yourself, but as Neoshi said - if you have an independent mechanic do it have them use the recommended fluid or better yet, buy it yourself at an Acura dealership and provide it to the mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am going by the independent route and give him the Acura brake fluid .
Dealer mentioned that he has a machine doing drain and fill of the brake fluid ..
How many quarts I need for this , don’t have owners manual handy ..
 

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Does anyone know the sequence of bleeding the brakes. My other Acuras used Honda brake fluid 08798-9008a. Can anyone confirm this is the correct one to use? I'm planning to get three 12 oz bottles for brake fluid replacement.
 

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Does anyone know the sequence of bleeding the brakes. My other Acuras used Honda brake fluid 08798-9008a. Can anyone confirm this is the correct one to use? I'm planning to get three 12 oz bottles for brake fluid replacement.
Brake bleeding sequence is the same with any Honda/Acura vehicle; LF-RF-RR-LR.
You can use Acura/Honda Dot 3 brake fluid and pay more or buy any Dot 4 fluid and save some $. 1 qt should be sufficient.
 

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Brake bleeding sequence is the same with any Honda/Acura vehicle; LF-RF-RR-LR.
You can use Acura/Honda Dot 3 brake fluid and pay more or buy any Dot 4 fluid and save some $. 1 qt should be sufficient.
honda/acura seems to be a outlier in the sequence, most vehicles it's furthest to closest, (RR, LR, RF, LF) rather than closest to furthest (LF, RF, RR, LR) why I don't know but that's the sequence. I'll best most any indy and many dealers do the RR,LR,RF, LF sequence since it's so common.

IMHO brake fluid is so inexpensive there is no reason NOT to use a DOT4 fluid instead of DOT3. Just don't use a DOT5!!!. And even among DOT4 look at the wet and dry boiling point. some are much better than others with noticeably higher boiling points and moisture absorption rates. I've been using the Valvoline synthetic DOT4 in all my vehicles for decades. And I have a motive performance pressure bleeder so I just suck out fluid from the master cylinder, refill with fresh fluid, hook up the pressure bleeder and bleed till I get REAL clear fluid from each caliper. May take a little more fluid, but again, it's inexpensive enough to not be an issue. I generally use 1-1.5 qts on cars, 3 quarts on my pickups with larger calipers and longer lines. Always have an extra quart on hand if needed.
 

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honda/acura seems to be a outlier in the sequence, most vehicles it's furthest to closest, (RR, LR, RF, LF) rather than closest to furthest (LF, RF, RR, LR) why I don't know but that's the sequence. I'll best most any indy and many dealers do the RR,LR,RF, LF sequence since it's so common.

IMHO brake fluid is so inexpensive there is no reason NOT to use a DOT4 fluid instead of DOT3. Just don't use a DOT5!!!. And even among DOT4 look at the wet and dry boiling point. some are much better than others with noticeably higher boiling points and moisture absorption rates. I've been using the Valvoline synthetic DOT4 in all my vehicles for decades. And I have a motive performance pressure bleeder so I just suck out fluid from the master cylinder, refill with fresh fluid, hook up the pressure bleeder and bleed till I get REAL clear fluid from each caliper. May take a little more fluid, but again, it's inexpensive enough to not be an issue. I generally use 1-1.5 qts on cars, 3 quarts on my pickups with larger calipers and longer lines. Always have an extra quart on hand if needed.
@MCRacer not sure of the year of your MDX (mine is '14), but what kind of adapter (for the fluid reservoir) are you using with you Power Bleeder? Was difficult to find and I ended up doing it the old way in the past.
 

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@MCRacer not sure of the year of your MDX (mine is '14), but what kind of adapter (for the fluid reservoir) are you using with you Power Bleeder? Was difficult to find and I ended up doing it the old way in the past.
I too use Motive bleeder with universal adapter 1101 on my 2015 MDX, have to undo small fuse box above the reservoir. It's not easy to achieve perfect fit but doable. Just place a large cardboard underside in case some spill. Much easier than cleaning up afterwards.

Motive website specifically shows not possible to make a custom fit with stock reservoir cap.

Motive.JPG
 

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I too use Motive bleeder with universal adapter 1101 on my 2015 MDX, have to undo small fuse box above the reservoir. It's not easy to achieve perfect fit but doable. Just place a large cardboard underside in case some spill. Much easier than cleaning up afterwards.

Motive website specifically shows not possible to make a custom fit with stock reservoir cap.

View attachment 116088
thanks for the info and really helpful...FYI, got this reply from CTATOOLS.COM (see below). Also about $30 on Amazon.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thank you for reaching out to us about:
7030 - Master Cylinder Adapter - Honda (Internal Male Insert O.D. = 56mm & Adapter O.D. = 79.5mm)
7032 - Master Cylinder Adapter - Honda (Internal Male Insert O.D. = 74mm & Adapter O.D. = 93mm)
(7032 - Master Cylinder Adapter - Honda)

We recommend measuring the application to determine the correct adapter required.
 

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thanks for the info and really helpful...FYI, got this reply from CTATOOLS.COM (see below). Also about $30 on Amazon.
Have you tried it yourself? I'll be glad to get one if it works. I need one for Hyundai, it's even worse, completely unable to get good seal.
 

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I have not ordered / tried yet as I flushed the MDX about 6 months ago...will need to measure. Looks like ARESTOOLS also has a few and sent an email but no replies yet :)
 
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