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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all
Question for you pros

I just did a ‘last mans’ power steering flush using the turkey baster method. Two iterations and I am satisfied, liquid looks good.

many reason why I cant use this same turkey baster method for the brake fluid? Yes, I know it will never get along the stuff out...but will it do the job?

thanks
 

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i don't think it is an effective approach. A lot of junk gets accumulated at the end, near the calipers/hose etc.
 

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There are 4 ways that an Acura Tech may change your brake fluid and all 4 are accepted, in the Industry.
1. Remove and replace the brake fluid in the reservoir.
2. Above #1 plus bleed the caliper, which is closest to the brake master cylinder.
3. Above #1 plus bleed all calipers.
4. Above #3 plus cycle the ABS pump, with a special Honda ABS machine.

My old Honda Dealer, in Alpharetta, GA had windows in the waiting room and you could see what work was being done. So, you could request #4 and see the work, otherwise #1 is considered acceptable. #4 is mandatory when you have the ABS pump replaced, for $$$$$.
 

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just get one of these power bleeders
 

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Unlike the PS system the brake system doesn't circulate the fluid, so the new fluid that went into the reservoir never gets distributed throughout the rest of the system. Just replacing the fluid in the reservoir does almost nothing IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I always thought there would be some buildup near the calipers, but I always assumed that there would be some flow in the system so replacing the canister of fluid will improve the overall condition all the system fluid...but sounds like my assumption is wrong.

Must admit the Power Steering Turkey Baster Flush works like a charm and was hoping i could do more fluids using a similar method.

I read somewhere (possibly here) that they used the turkey baster method for engine oil, without changing the filter. That one doesn't make sense to me, but I am no expert...
 

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just replacing the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir is of limited value. yes, you will have new water free fluid in the master cylinder. And as the brakes are cycled a small amount of the new fluid will start down the line to the brakes and then be pushed back into the master cylinder. But the majority of the fluid in the ABS system and brake lines and brake calipers will be the same old fluid. And will stay that way.

My preferred method, consistent with virtually all mfg is to use the motive performance pressure bleeder and use 2-4 quarts of DOT4 fluid to get clean fluid in the system. In some cases I use a diagnostic routine if handy to also bleed the ABS system. In some vehicles the ABS system is bleed as part of a pressure bleed, in some systems not.

First step of course is to suck the fluid out of the reservoir, and fill with new fluid, then attached the pressure bleeder and get it set up.
 

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oh yes it does, any heated fluid moves and brake fluid gets hot, sometimes boils
I won't argue that you won't get a small amount of transfer, but you certainly will not get any of the accumulated water out of the lines that way. Getting water as well as the old fluid out is the reason behind a flush.
 

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Removing the old fluid by gravity is the simplest and easiest way to bleed the brake fluid...
Literally you just need some clear tubing and time, You dont even have to remove the wheels or jack up..

1.- Get some silicone tubing that fits the brake caliper bleeder (Usually fishtank air tube works).
2.- Lay down and locate the brake caliper, Plug the bleeder nipple with the silicone tube and undo the bleeder.
3.- Let the fluid bleed and top off the reservoir until you see the new fluid bleed through the line.
4.- Close the bleeder and repeat on the other wheels..

If you have a helper you can do the 4 wheels at the same time to save a lot of time...
Just keep topping off the reservoir and keep the helper watching the tubes so you know when they are bleeding new fluid and close the bleeder. Do not let the reservoir run dry or you will introduce air into the system (NOT GOOD), If this happens you will have to purge the system which will double the time you need for this procedure.

That´s it..
 

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As a technician, the method I do is to suck out all of the old brake fluid from the master cylinder and then bleed at all 4 calipers.
 

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Hi all
Question for you pros

I just did a ‘last mans’ power steering flush using the turkey baster method. Two iterations and I am satisfied, liquid looks good.

many reason why I cant use this same turkey baster method for the brake fluid? Yes, I know it will never get along the stuff out...but will it do the job?

thanks
@ GWOO, you can definitely use the method to empty the master cylinder as that's the first step in the brake flushing process but you still need to do a complete system purge. You should purge the system every 2-3 years, I do mine by myself, I use what I call my breather bottle.

114934
 

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Removing the old fluid by gravity is the simplest and easiest way to bleed the brake fluid...
Literally you just need some clear tubing and time, You dont even have to remove the wheels or jack up..

1.- Get some silicone tubing that fits the brake caliper bleeder (Usually fishtank air tube works).
2.- Lay down and locate the brake caliper, Plug the bleeder nipple with the silicone tube and undo the bleeder.
3.- Let the fluid bleed and top off the reservoir until you see the new fluid bleed through the line.
4.- Close the bleeder and repeat on the other wheels..

If you have a helper you can do the 4 wheels at the same time to save a lot of time...
Just keep topping off the reservoir and keep the helper watching the tubes so you know when they are bleeding new fluid and close the bleeder. Do not let the reservoir run dry or you will introduce air into the system (NOT GOOD), If this happens you will have to purge the system which will double the time you need for this procedure.

That´s it..
Yup that is the method I did but slightly different. I connected the white clear tube to all 4 bleeders at the same time and each tube is hooked up to a small bottle to catch the fluid. Jack up the front vehicle to speed up the flow. Open all bleeder and let the gravity do the work. Just keep eyes on the reservoir and don let it empty completely before refilling. After seeing each caliper has a clear fluid close the bleeder.

This method will take time .


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When I do any kind of mechanic work I don't rush, that's how costly mistakes get made. As far as the process, I timed it, at a leisurely pace it took me 15 minutes from start to finish.
 

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@ GWOO, you can definitely use the method to empty the master cylinder as that's the first step in the brake flushing process but you still need to do a complete system purge. You should purge the system every 2-3 years, I do mine by myself, I use what I call my breather bottle.

View attachment 114934
I have a similar setup using a old Gatorade bottle (bigger cap). Off the top of me head, I have 2 vacuum lines going into it, 1 1/4" and 1 5/16" vacuum lines when allows me to fit it on just about most bleeders out there.
 

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I have a similar setup using a old Gatorade bottle (bigger cap). Off the top of me head, I have 2 vacuum lines going into it, 1 1/4" and 1 5/16" vacuum lines when allows me to fit it on just about most bleeders out there.
Ya a Gatorade bottle was the first thing I thought about but I was being lazy and used whatever I found in my shed, lol. Once you're done all you have to do is swap caps over.
 

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Ya a Gatorade bottle was the first thing I thought about but I was being lazy and used whatever I found in my shed, lol. Once you're done all you have to do is swap caps over.
Well, for me previously being a multi-line tech, I needed everything in one.
 
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