Acura MDX SUV Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2010 MDX and it needs a new battery. The OEM battery is a 24R with the positive terminal on the left back part of the battery if you face the car. It appears only 24F batteries are now manufactured which reverses the terminal polarity. The cables that attach to the battery are tethered down (more so on the positive cable which attaches to a fuse box as well), and cannot reach the terminals on the reversed polarity battery (the 24F). I have no idea how to get around this problem, but no one else has posted on this problem. What is the solutions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,336 Posts
I have a similar issue when I replaced my battery on my TSX a few years ago. I went with an Interstate MT-51 and found out there was a MT-51R (reverse) for my vehicle with the terminals in the correct position. You might have to see if there is reverse model out there or you might have to go with a different brand that does.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
I bought one at Costco recently. Interstate 700CCA and it has the correct alignment and dropped right in. That said, I noticed the positive terminal would not tighten quite enough to get a solid tight connection. Not sure if my cable has corroded and lost material or if the new battery post is slightly smaller. I picked up a lead terminal post shim at O'Reilly and was good to go. I paid $83 for the battery at Costco.

Car and Truck Automotive Batteries - Buy a Vehicle Battery for Cars or Trucks | Interstate Batteries - Mega-Tron Plus Climate Shield 24FS Automotive Battery - 6Yr Performance Warranty 700 CCA

Tips on install.
I recommend buying a terminal cleaning tool and thoroughly clean your cables and even soak them in baking soda and water before installing it. I also roughed up the terminals on the new battery and inside the shim before the install. Once everything was rock solid, I taped it off and sprayed some black paint on to prevent corrosion. Alternatively you can also use Grease or Petroleum Jelly.

Be sure the cable is on tight. After initial install I thought it was on tight. When driving would suddenly act like the ignition was turned off and then back on... this happened over and over again. I thought bad ignition switch and rechecked the cables. Sure enough they were not tight on the positive post. The shim solved it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
In my 2002 Touring, the battery placement appears to be as you describe. (Positive terminal is almost directly in front of the brake master cylinder.) I have a z
DieHard 24F and the placement is correct.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
As mentioned above I found a battery post cap was required. They are widely available and I got a pair from Amazon for approx $5, only the Positive cap was required.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
1 - Look up your radio code here if you can't find the radio card in your owner's manual
https://radio-navicode.acura.com/

2 - Remove your key from the ignition, and pop your hood

3. Remove negative cable first using 10mm socket, and an open end 10mm wrench to hold the back nut from rotating. Move cable out of the way.

3. Remove positive cable second using 10mm socket, and an open end 10mm wrench to hold the back nut from rotating. Move cable out of the way.

4. Remove the hold down clamp 2 (10mm) nuts. You will need a deep well socket or can use open ended wrench.

5. Lift old battery out

6. (Optional) Clean battery cables with terminal cleaning tool and soak in baking soda and water

7. Rough up the posts on the new battery using terminal cleaning tool and drop into place. Double-check that you have the positive and negative aligned correctly

8. Expand old terminal ends on your cables so they will clear the new battery posts. I used needle nose pliers and expanded them from inside.

9. (Optional) Install terminal shim on positive post if required. If you are using an Interstate you can assume you need these. $2 at Autozone.

10. Install positive battery cable. You may need to gently tap on if it is tight or expand it. Double check that it is tight but don't overtorque.

11. Install negative battery cable. Double check that it is tight but don't overtorque.

12. Reinstall hold down clamp. Do not overtighten and damage the battery case. Snug and solid is good.

13. (Optional) Tape off and spray paint the terminals, or apply grease to protect them from corrosion

14. Turn on ignition and enter the radio code
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
798 Posts
I bought one at Costco recently. Interstate 700CCA and it has the correct alignment and dropped right in. That said, I noticed the positive terminal would not tighten quite enough to get a solid tight connection.
Me too about a month ago and it too was the 24 size. I didn't have any positive terminal issue though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
My cable end had a lot of corrosion on it. It is possible that I lost enough copper material to a point where a shim was necessary for me. The good thing is it is rock solid and properly protected against future corrosion this time around. After I installed it without the shim it actually felt solid and tight. But then a few days later the ignition reset condition appeared. I gave the cable another shake and realized it was slightly loose.

I love Costco. The last battery I installed in 2011 was 48 months old and I paid $70 for it. They gave me a $35 credit pro-rated with no questions asked when I took it back in to buy the Interstate. I'm not even fully convinced the old one was bad...might have been a loose connection all along. That said, I'm glad to just have a brand new one in there rather than take any chances.

Me too about a month ago and it too was the 24 size. I didn't have any positive terminal issue though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Thanks

1 - Look up your radio code here if you can't find the radio card in your owner's manual
https://radio-navicode.acura.com/

2 - Remove your key from the ignition, and pop your hood

3. Remove negative cable first using 10mm socket, and an open end 10mm wrench to hold the back nut from rotating. Move cable out of the way.

3. Remove positive cable second using 10mm socket, and an open end 10mm wrench to hold the back nut from rotating. Move cable out of the way.

4. Remove the hold down clamp 2 (10mm) nuts. You will need a deep well socket or can use open ended wrench.

5. Lift old battery out

6. (Optional) Clean battery cables with terminal cleaning tool and soak in baking soda and water

7. Rough up the posts on the new battery using terminal cleaning tool and drop into place. Double-check that you have the positive and negative aligned correctly

8. Expand old terminal ends on your cables so they will clear the new battery posts. I used needle nose pliers and expanded them from inside.

9. (Optional) Install terminal shim on positive post if required. If you are using an Interstate you can assume you need these. $2 at Autozone.

10. Install positive battery cable. You may need to gently tap on if it is tight or expand it. Double check that it is tight but don't overtorque.

11. Install negative battery cable. Double check that it is tight but don't overtorque.

12. Reinstall hold down clamp. Do not overtighten and damage the battery case. Snug and solid is good.

13. (Optional) Tape off and spray paint the terminals, or apply grease to protect them from corrosion

14. Turn on ignition and enter the radio code
Thank you for this though-out procedure!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
I bough the battery Interstate 750 from Costco, but not yet to replace it (wait for the original one to die hehe) I heard if you delude Epsom salt with some water and add it to the low battery it will boost up the electrodes. Is this true ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
I bought the battery Interstate 750 from Costco, but not yet to replace it (wait for the original one to die hehe) I heard if you delude Epsom salt with some water and add it to the low battery it will boost up the electrodes. Is this true ?

To each their own but the battery is around $70 and since you already bought it the clock has started on the free replacement warranty period. Once the free replacement period ends you are on a $1.00 per month prorate. Not worth taking the chance and going through the inconvenience of the original one failing if you ask me. I'd rather drop in the new one and know I'm good moving forward. Plus you get your core refund back (if this applies to you)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
798 Posts
To each their own but the battery is around $70 and since you already bought it the clock has started on the free replacement warranty period. Once the free replacement period ends you are on a $1.00 per month prorate. Not worth taking the chance and going through the inconvenience of the original one failing if you ask me. I'd rather drop in the new one and know I'm good moving forward. Plus you get your core refund back (if this applies to you)
x2. You don't want to take a chance dying on the road which can cost you either a tow or at the very least a lot of time being stranded and waiting.

Are you the type that also cut's open the toothpaste to get every last ounce by chance? ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
Seriously - I thought I was cheap :) (Which I proudly am but within reason).

My battery failed on a rare 95 degree day. Luckily I was at Costco when it failed so I could grab the new battery. What sucked was I didn't have tools to install it... I was able to jump the car off the new battery and drive home and immediately install it.

I also doubt any magic tricks exist to boost extrodes. If something so inexpensive helps wouldn't Interstate do this for us?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
ahahahaa, Alpine you crack me up :p no I am not that type but it got me thinking, hm...
Indeed, MDXpression and Alpine you got my eyes opened I am gonna drop the new battery in, get core refund and be at peace of mind.
True, life is full of surprise. A little risk is still too much to take.
Great advise :29:
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top