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The window glass started to slip down by a couple inches. Most likely a window regulator problem. What surprised me is that the battery runs down when this happens. Same thing had happened a few years ago.

What is the relation between the window regulator going bad and the battery being run down? Bad design?
 

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It's either just a coincidence, or possibly that if the window in question is a front one (can't tell from your post) the auto mechanism might be trying to move the window to its full up or full down position, and continues to try when it jams up. Either way, the solution is simple and cheap - just replace the regulator.
 

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It's either just a coincidence, or possibly that if the window in question is a front one (can't tell from your post) the auto mechanism might be trying to move the window to its full up or full down position, and continues to try when it jams up. Either way, the solution is simple and cheap - just replace the regulator.
Passenger rear window. Once could have been co-incidence. Twice seemed too much of a co-incidence !
Regulator replace is not cheap. I got a quote of $225 ? Is that too high?
 

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Here's the issue - if the regulator will run the window up and down properly (ignoring its tendency to lower an inch intermittently) then chances are the regulator itself is OK.

To determine if the regulator (or associated control circuitry) is the source of a battery drain, pull fuse #16 from the passenger's fusebox, and (ideally) plug in an ammeter across the terminals. If it's drawing any current at all when the window isn't moving, that's probably too much. Keep in mind that the circuit is rated at 20 amps, and most ammeters won't handle more than 10 amps (meaning that if the motor IS engaged, you could potentially damage the ammeter).

It appears that the rear window "switch" unit has a couple relays, and I can imagine a failure in one of those causing some problems, though I believe that circuit (and the others associated with the windows) isn't powered up unless the key is on.

One more thing that might help is the regulator alignment procedure. Simple - just put the key in the II (second) position, then hold the window down button all the way down, and continue holding it for a few seconds after it reaches the bottom. Then hold the button in the full up position until the window has been all the way up for a few seconds. This should reset the regulator's idea of what "open" and "closed" mean.
 
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