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Discussion Starter #1
I have read a lot about the infinity's for front/rear speaker replacement. Anyone out there replace theirs with a component system. I hear the Alpine is really good, even without adding an amp. Just looking to make the sound better without breaking the bank, or messing too much with amps and extra pieces. The advice is much appreciated.

Ian:confused:
 

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I replaced fronts with Focal Polykevlar 2-ways, rears with Focal Access coaxials. INCREDIBLE IMPROVEMENT! It cost $550 ($425 for the speakers, $125 install).

BUT...the base is still muddled, and the final solution for that is another $1450: subwoofer ($175) + subwoofer enclosure ($250) + amp(s) ($525) + install ($500).

The low-cost option appears to be to add whatever fronts & rears you choose - Infinity, Boston Acoustics, Focal, Polk - and add a good free-air sub (Polk or Soundstream?). That should set you back $300-$800.

The two high cost, but unavoidable, options - if you want really great sound - are an enclosure for the subwoofer and "real" amplifiers (as opposed to the ridiculous OEM amps).

Hope that helps. Good luck! Have fun!

Steve
 

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I am in the process of installing as we speak my Audio system, so I can't comment on how these speakers work with the factory CD player (it's out and sitting in the garage) but I am putting Alpine 6.5" component speakers (SPX series) in the front, Alpine coaxials (DD Drive series) in the rear door and a 3rd set in the side walls for the 3rd row seats.

I used these same speakers in my Honda Accord in the doors up front, and sound was incredible. My dealer said it would be good, but once installed, better than anything I heard in a 6.5" component. Vocals truly come to life! I will be using lots of dynamat, since the bass that these speakers can produce is incredible. Soundstage is high and well in front of you, and you feel like you are in the middle of a very good concert hall.

Couple of things: Tweeter is a bit larger than most components, basket on woofer is a bit larger than most, and crossover unit is very big, and has adjustable settings which help tune high frequency sensitivity, and phase considerations for tweeter placement. So, you will need to tweak them before hiding them. But once up and running, oh so sweet! You will need to make a mounting trim ring to get clearance due to the large basket on woofer.

Good luck with your decision, and let your ears be the guide...buy the ones you like the sound of the best, to the max of what you are willing to spend. These speakers would need external amps to give their full potential...But to your original question, Alpine makes a great speaker in their upper end series...tough as nails, and sounds very natural.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was thinking of the ALpine SPR-176

The dealer said that the SPR's do not need additional amplification. The crossovers are a little smaller. Where are you putting yours, behind the speaker in the door cavity?

Ian
 

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Re: I was thinking of the ALpine SPR-176

nyphotoguy said:
The dealer said that the SPR's do not need additional amplification. The crossovers are a little smaller. Where are you putting yours, behind the speaker in the door cavity?

Ian

Interesting the dealer would say that. The sensitivity is 86 db, it's around 91 or 92 db for the Infinity and Boston speakers.
Do you know if the woofers will fit ok in the doors? It says, 2 3/4, they should.

Here's a great price if interested:

http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=alpspr176a&SVBName=309
 

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Haven't worked with the SPR series, but my understanding is that they are an excellent speaker, as most alpine's are...I have read in past threads that there is some hollow areas within the door panels /inner doors, so I will probably mount the X-overs there.

This weekend may be "door panel " removal time...after that I'll be able to comment further.
 

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Actually the whole space between the door panel and the door is all hollow. I mounted my crossover in that space. I actually let it sit on the bottom of the door cavity. The space behind the panel is huge, I can even fit my hand in there.
 

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I had the Type R's. They are a really good speaker but, they are huge. To get them in your front doors just plan on cutting the entire plastic basket, and then some, out. They require a huge hole. Mounting depth is no problem at all. You could probably squeeze a 3 1/2" deep speaker in the front door. You would not be dissappointed with the sound. They are nice.
 

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Managed to do all 4 doors this weekend (between kids hockey games) and went very well, and easier than expected.

Door panels came off very easy, in the typical Honda fashion...couple of screws and pop-off clips....

The rears required me to make a trim extension about 1/2 inch thick to enable clearance for the weather shield and to allow the speaker basket to work within the existing speaker mount. Think of it as an adaptor piece to make everything fit. I used 1/2" MDF.

The fronts were also ok, however, I did have to cut away a bit of the plastic backing rain guard about a 1/2 to allow the magnet to fit in...the depth wasn't the issue, it was the overall size wouldn't squeeze in. Also, I didn't think I would have the room for the grille cover if I brought them out as I did in the rear speakers. I also made a custom bracket for the tweeters out of 1/4" MDF. No real challenge to do. All looks totallystock once grilles back on...

The toughest part was running wires from each through the factory rubber boot between the door and the side of the body near the hinges. This took forever to feed wiring from the woofer and tweeter in from inner door panel, through rubber boot, and down in under the dash near fuse box area. From here, they will go to cross overs. There probably would have been room in door panel, but my crossovers are adjustable and I would have required the whole system going to play with them. I'll put them under the dash somewhere, maybe behind the center console near the firewall,seems like a lot of room there.

I also took a previous poster's advice and used lots of Dynamat.
I lined the entire outer skin of all doors (inside skin of outer sheetmetal) as well as a layer on the inside of the doors (replacing the white platic weather barrier. I ensured that it was as tight and weather proof as the original plastic. I also then did the inside of the actual door panel itself. In effect, 3 layers of dynamat per door. (about 50 square feet in all). We'll see if this makes any difference , as I haven't yet driven it yet. Next task, headliner...and more dynamat....
 

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Hey Curtsan....Let us know how the headliner goes with the sound damping. I have heard that the headliner is the source of alot of road noise with the MDX. I did my front doors this weekend. I am going to do the rears next. I also want to do the headliner but, was wanting to see how yours turns out.
 

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kishino said:
Actually the whole space between the door panel and the door is all hollow. I mounted my crossover in that space. I actually let it sit on the bottom of the door cavity. The space behind the panel is huge, I can even fit my hand in there.
Kishino,

Just wanted to give you a heads up that the spot you placed your crossover is an extremely wet spot. I originally had it there temporarily till I could figure out how to route the custom harness I made and noticed it was soaking wet after a rain. Fortunetly I had wrapped it in Glad wrap as a precaution. I confirmed that it happens to be in the direct drip path of the windows as the water seeps past the felt weather seals by having my wife spray water at it while I watched from the inside with a flashlight. For this reason, I mounted the crossover with double stick onto the center of the door skin, and then taped a flap of clear plastic over it as a water shield, allowing it to ventilate properly. I think next time I will use judicious amounts of velcro instead so that I can easily dismount the unit to modify tweeter attenuation. I imagine you could throw some plastic over it if you wanted to keep it there, but I wanted to emphasize, its a real torrent right there.

Just lookin' out on your behalf. Good luck.

B -
 

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Curtsan said:
Next task, headliner...and more dynamat....
I'm thinking dynamat isn't good upside down. In hot weather, and with the sun beating down on it, the roof metal gets really hot and the dynamat adhesive becomes soft, and with gravity pulling it straight down . . .

I've had to performa tear down during the middle of a hot summer about 8 months after a proud dynamate installation and noticed the upper corners of quarter panels have come undone. Contact cement applied to both surfaces and allowed to dry to a almost dry tackiness did the trick, but it was messy and I'm still not sure if it held.

I'm thinking a spray on application may be more appropriate for the roof. There are a lot of obstacles attached to the roof and this makes it a better candidate for the spray type as well. You can apply several layers for the same med-strength dynamat effect, but will need to mask up all the roof components and thoroughly protect from overspray. I haven't tried this yet, but simply gave up after pulling the liner to install nuts for the custom roof rails (which can't be done, structural obstructions). Still, its the route I would have taken had I had the energy.
 

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Headliner Dynamat....

I'm actually using a product called "fatmat"....(which is almost exactly like Dynamat Extreme). I have been using the term "dynamat" loosely for simplicity in my description. I have use the actual brand "Dynamt" before, and this "fatmat" product appears to be much more adhesive than when I used actual Dynamt in my previous car.

Regardless, I was also concerned about headlner issues. I called the company directly and they said it would be no problem. they indicated that if applied correctly with a roller (supplied)and the surface is prepped right with a cleaner/degreaser mixture (also supplied) that adhesion would never be a problem. In fact they said that once applied, it is vietually impossible to take off if need be in the future...I can attest to this, as once it is pressed on, this stuff is like contact cement and no chance to re-position it...got to get it right the first time....

Hopefully that if it does start to "droop", the supporting areas of the headliner near the edges where there is firm plastic trim pieces are located will help the issue.
 
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