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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the middle of replacing the factory Bose system (non-nav) in our 2003 with a new double DIN radio. The Scosche SLC4 line output converter is a giant pain to put behind the dash, and I'm not particularly impressed with the quality. As the newer class D amps get smaller and less inexpensive, I was curious if anybody had tried replacing the Bose amp with one. Here are a couple of examples:

Soundstream Picaso Nano - [email protected] on the main channels, [email protected] on the subwoofer channel. 4.75"x1.5"x10.3", about $150.
Alpine KTP-445U - [email protected], no sub channel. 2-9/16"x1.5"x7-7/8", about $105.

I'm not sure what the dimensions are on the front Bose amp. Anybody know for sure, and how much space is actually available in the console? It would be great if you could squeeze one of these into the stock location and wire directly into the stock speaker wiring for all the main speakers. Then you could just drop RCA cables down from the receiver and run new speaker wire to the factory subwoofer location.
 

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Quick update - I have ordered the Soundstream amp and a set of replacement speakers for the front (Infinity PR6500CS), and already had a set of Kenwood KFC-1695PS's for the rear. Will try to update with photos as I go in case it would help anybody else down the road.
 

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Quick update - I have ordered the Soundstream amp and a set of replacement speakers for the front (Infinity PR6500CS), and already had a set of Kenwood KFC-1695PS's for the rear. Will try to update with photos as I go in case it would help anybody else down the road.
How's it coming along? Based on my other HFL thread, you got me thinking about getting a new head unit and speakers now and those Infinitys get great reviews. :grin: I saw some mixed reviews on the Scosche. I'm looking at this head unit: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DPX792B/Kenwood-Excelon-DPX792BH.html mainly bc I'm not crazy about touch screen stuff.

I just wonder how much it would cost a shop to install all that stuff (head unit, new xm adapter/antenna, amp, speakers). I'm assuming you can't just swap the speakers out and you'd have to rip out a bunch of panels to run wires from the amp to the speakers. I wish they could just use the existing XM adapter and antenna ugh. You'd think there would be some kind of wiring harness to make it compatible.
 

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You should be able to reuse your existing antenna with this adapter:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_794ANTSAT1/iDatalink-Maestro-SAT1.html
Antenna to adapter to the add on tuner to the new radio.

I've got the new amp and speakers installed. Everything fits perfectly and the sound is drastically improved from stock. Failed to take pictures along the way, but I'll see if I can't get some basic photos tomorrow and write up my notes from the project.

I reused all the stock speaker wiring except for the subwoofer. Put in a new run for that since it could see as much as 350 watts RMS with the new amp.
 

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You should be able to reuse your existing antenna with this adapter:
iDatalink Maestro SAT1 Satellite radio antenna adapter ? use your vehicle's factory satellite radio antenna with the SiriusXM tuner at Crutchfield.com
Antenna to adapter to the add on tuner to the new radio.

I've got the new amp and speakers installed. Everything fits perfectly and the sound is drastically improved from stock. Failed to take pictures along the way, but I'll see if I can't get some basic photos tomorrow and write up my notes from the project.

I reused all the stock speaker wiring except for the subwoofer. Put in a new run for that since it could see as much as 350 watts RMS with the new amp.
Oh wow, nice! The part shows that it won't fit but I hope they're lying! :) From my understanding, my 2006 Touring non-nav w/ Bose has 8 speakers.. this is going to get $$$. I don't need a sub (unless it already comes w/ one). I mostly listen to rock/metal but I'm past the blasting it days.. usually.
 

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I think the 8 speakers with the bose would be including the subwoofer and rear center channel in the ceiling. There are the rear door speakers and the front components(door speakers and sail panel tweeters).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You should be able to reuse your existing antenna with this adapter:
iDatalink Maestro SAT1 Satellite radio antenna adapter ? use your vehicle's factory satellite radio antenna with the SiriusXM tuner at Crutchfield.com
Antenna to adapter to the add on tuner to the new radio.

I've got the new amp and speakers installed. Everything fits perfectly and the sound is drastically improved from stock. Failed to take pictures along the way, but I'll see if I can't get some basic photos tomorrow and write up my notes from the project.

I reused all the stock speaker wiring except for the subwoofer. Put in a new run for that since it could see as much as 350 watts RMS with the new amp.
Oh wow, nice! The part shows that it won't fit but I hope they're lying!
From my understanding, my 2006 Touring non-nav w/ Bose has 8 speakers.. this is going to get $$$. I don't need a sub (unless it already comes w/ one). I mostly listen to rock/metal but I'm past the blasting it days.. usually.
I think you're right about that adapter not working. Got my search screwed up somewhere along the line. Still, I suspect there's something similar out there that would work with the MDX.
The previous post is correct about the 8 speakers. Components in the front doors are counted as four, two more in the rear doors, plus the factory sub and overhead tweeter. For what it's worth, I suspect nobody bothers doing anything with the overhead speaker. I certainly didn't, it's just disconnected now.
The wiring is pretty simple. If you're patient, you should be able to do it yourself. The only things I removed were the passenger seat (because the amp was installed underneath, comes out with 4 bolts), the center console (most of the wiring is hidden under it and it comes out in about fifteen minutes of work), and the front door panels (to wire the component speakers, these come off in 2 or 3 minutes with two screw as I recall). Most of the time I spent was in planning, and I can save you most of that if you do it the same way.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here's a bit more information...
Start by removing the passenger seat and at least the lower side panels on the console. The whole console would be helpful, but can be avoided.

Power can be accessed through the power distribution point behind the battery on the drivers side. I used a Scosche amplifier wiring kit (link) for $30 that made the job easy. Just pop off the cover for the power distribution box and bolt in the power wire. I had to clip a bit off the edge of the cover to make it fit more cleanly.

Run the power through the firewall with the rest of the harness. An insertion tool helps immensely here, but you can get it through creatively using other solutions (a sharp object can punch a hole in the grommet, then chase it with the cable. Run the cable across behind the drivers carpet and down, then through the bottom of the console and out the factory hole in the carpet with the rest of the wiring on the inner side of the passenger seat.

The ground can be run from the same hole in the carpet. Attach it to the side of the console (it's a good ground point).

Unplug the connector from the bottom of the factory Bose amplifier. Disconnect the wires you'll need for speakers and the amplifier turn on lead. Here's a list:
Left Front: Blue/Green (pin 26, positive), Grey/Black (pin 25, negative)
Right Front: Red/Green (pin 2, positive), Brown/Black (pin 1, negative)
Left Rear: Blue/Yellow (pin 12, positive), Grey/White (pin 13, negative)
Right Rear: Red/Yellow (pin 15, positive), Brown/White (pin 14, negative)
Amplifier turn on lead: Yellow/White, pin 5

At this point, I used an 8 pin connector to connect my speaker wires from the amp to the existing factory wiring. Just hook the wires from the factory into one half of the connector, and the wires from the amplifier into the other half. The new speaker wires to the amp were routed through the console and out into the same wiring hole in the carpet as the power and ground.

RCA cables should slide down easily from the radio down the passenger side of the console. You can separate them from the console and under the carpet before they come near the power cable. Bring them out from the wiring hole on the other side of the passenger seat. Ensure that they stay as far as possible from the power cable, ideally at least 12" minimum.

The amplifier turn on lead should be connected to the yellow/white wire at the Bose harness. As long as that was connected when the new radio was installed to the factory harness, that wire will work perfectly. Run it with the RCA cables to the turn on input on the amplifier.

The speaker wire for the subwoofer is a bit of a pain. Lift the plastic cover at the bottom of the passenger rear door entry. That will give you access to help pull the wire through. You'll also need to pull the rear interior trim off a bit from the wall. Once you've done that, you should be able to run a coat hanger or wire snake from the subwoofer area forward to the front of the panel. Use the wire to feed the cable into the subwoofer area. You can install virtually any 10" subwoofer into the factory location with an adapter ring. We just used a piece of 3/4" plywood and traced the outside of the original speaker and mounting holes onto it. Center the back of the new speaker in that and cut that out, leaving a ring that can be bolted into the factory location. Mount the subwoofer onto the ring and you're in business. I had no trouble with the Kicker subwoofer hitting either the outside wall or the factory grill cover.

Here's a quick list of the parts used and Amazon prices:
Scosche wiring kit (KPA8A), $30
Soundstream PN5.640D 5 channel amp, $150
Stinger 6 channel RCA cables, $26 (these are great because they are run as a single set and lay flat under the carpet).
Amazon Basics 14 gauge speaker wire, $11
Kicker 10" 4 ohm DVC subwoofer, $70

If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.
 

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