[proskunetes]

Well, I think I've found a simple replacement subwoofer for the MDX in the factory location.

To make a short story long, I've done the door speaker upgrade and now I still find that it's lacking in bass... (mid-bass seems to be adequate with the Infinity's I installed). Since then, I've been trying to find a simple solution of getting a new sub and improving the sound without having to learn how rewire the car.

The subwoofer I found that seems to be the simplest upgrade and make a seemingly noticable difference is the JVC CS-LD3250. On paper it looks great. It's 4 ohm but since the sensitivity is pretty high at 91, I think I'll be okay in getting by without an amp. *As I recall, a 3 dB difference produce about twice as much sound...

It's also a "free air" sub so here again, I should get by in the factory location instead of a "box"

Now the bad news: The depth clearance is 5". From what I know of other's who have changed their subwoofer in the factory location, the deepest was the Kicker 10" 01C104 which has a clearance of 4 11/16". Also, if I remember right, someone tried to install a Kicker VR series woofer that had a 5" depth and couldn't do it. For those of you who have installed the Pioneer TS-W28C, do you know what the clearance on that was?

Here is where I need help from you Car Audio Experts:
Is there a way to increase the depth clearance on the woofer? I would think that there would be some type of wood or rubber spacer/bracket that could increase clearance +1/4"

Thanks in advance.

 

[nwaring]

Pioneer

Proskunetes. The Pioneer TS-W28C doesn't fit either. I don't remember the exact measurements but I think it was almost ½ inch to deep. I don’t know how other people put this sub in without some sort of spacer. I haven’t quite figured what’s up with this sub. The last I checked, Pioneer still doesn’t list it anywhere on their web site. I actually bought mine at Sears. The other interesting thing I discovered when I had my original out is that it had 2 ohm printed on the back. I have the base MDX and all the other speakers where 4 ohm??? If you find one that fit’s let us know.

PS. I lost the receipt to the TS-W28C and didn’t return it. It is just taking up space in my garage. $20 plus actual shipping and someone can have it.

 

[DaleB]

You could check with a custom installer, they usually have spacers of various thicknesses and diameters. partsexpress.com might be another source.

 

[DaleB]

I just looked on partsexpress.com myself and found 2 subs with depths of 4 3/4" !
One is a Dayton, I forget the other. Blaupunkt makes some shallow ones too.

 

[Xtreme MDX]

There are alternatives but a bit pricey....

There are subwoofers that have the magnet mounted where the dust cap on conventional subs are I forgot who carries them it could be Hollywood Labs or D.E.I. might carry them, check out Planet Audio also. This design will allow you to mount subs in the shallowest of locations.

 

[mig]

You can make it fit with very little modification. I currently have my sub mounted in the factory location. All we did was make a ring out of 1" MDF and mount it using the holes for the factory speaker. Then we attached the new sub to the ring and were even able to keep the factory grill. We did have to trim a bit of the plastic but that is not big deal. We fit a JL 10" IB4 in the factory hole. You can hit their web site and seee the dimensions and get an idea if your sub will fit or not www.jlaudio.com.

BTW the factory sub is a 2 ohm load so you will be basically cutting the power in half if you wire that sub to factory power.
You best bet would be to get a sub amp and use it to power a quality sub in the factory spot.

 

[mcclendons]

I have the base model, so may be different sub mount that touring, but my Pioneer W28C did fit. I had to go relook based on above posts, only spacer I have is a layer of dynamat padding (not put in as spacer but for the sound deadning). I do remember that the speaker magnet made mounting a little tough (wanted to grab the fender), but when centered it had little space.

Above said, the Pioneer is OK and inexpensive....far better than the stock base sub. If I were doing it again though, I would build a spacer out of MDF and use a little better sub. I have a feeling I will end up there when I add an amp in the future.

 

[mig]

I have a base model as well (2001).

How does the sub sound?

I tried a pioneer free air sub at one point due to its higher power handling properties but it sounded dead. My JL sounded much more musical.

BTW I am having a custom fiberglass box built in the exisiting sub cavity and we are going to mount a Boston Acoustics Pro 10" in there and we will be hooking it to my JL 500/1. It will really sound tight.

I will have a 10" JL IB4 to sell soon.

 

[mcclendons]

Mig,

The Pioneer is far better than stock. Tighter, and stronger......but still not "great". Some of it may be the lack of a strong amp, some of it is the inexpensive nature of the speaker (i paid ~$40 I think).

I am glad I did it, but would probably do a better sub if I did it again. I used the Pioneer for two reasons, easy fit, and low power requirements. Most aftermarket ones would REQUIRE an amp, and I was not sure I wanted to go that route. Wish there was a good location for an amp other than the headset storage area....I have it filled with "SUV emergency" stuff (potable starter battery, tow cable, etc).

I also with with Pionner door speakers, wish I had gone Infinity or better. Will probably change at least the fronts out this summer..........The Pioneer doors sound FAR better than stock, but are a little "bright" IMO. As I said though, glad I did both.

Let us know how the fiberglass box in orginal location goes. That sounds like a tough ($$$$) build. Wish I could do a high end install, as it sounds you are, but have not convinced the boss

 

[Zrelaxed]

I have a base model as well (2001).

BTW I am having a custom fiberglass box built in the exisiting sub cavity and we are going to mount a Boston Acoustics Pro 10" in there and we will be hooking it to my JL 500/1. It will really sound tight.

Mig, please provide details (and pics when you have them)!!!

 

[mig]

Will post when done.

BTW it is about $550 for the custome sub install and the sub. So it's not that bad.

I say get an decent and inexpensive amp, throw in one of those JL IB4 subs in the factory spot. Line the factory cavity with some Dynamat Extreme and you will be more than pleased with the result. That setup will give all the bass most listeners will need.

I just like to play around and keep upgrading as one of my hobbies.

 

[mig]

The sub is installed. Pics will come soon. The guys that did the work didn't have a digital camera so they have to get the film developed.

It sounds great so far but has to break in a bit so I will give a full report once it breaks in and I get the pics.

Later.