[Mark Turner]

OK.....I've done some homework on this site....thanks everyone!

Here's where I am. Could use a bit more advice.

I am planning to replace the four door speakers, and I am considering replacing the sub-woofer. But, if I do replace the sub, I will add a sub-amp. This will "free up" power from the base amp to strengthen power to the remaining seven speakers. Subs are power hungry. A number of posts indicate great overall results from an additional sub amp.

What kind of power would you recommend? Brands? Recommendations? I am looking for strong bass response, but not the kind that rattles windows and makes my eardrums bleed. But, I do want to avoid "bottoming out" and really am hoping to give my stereos bass resonance great strength. My musical tastes focus on the Blues (Etta James, SRV, B.B. King, Clapton, Buddy Guy, Dr. John, Robert Cray, Koko Taylor), Jazz (Dianna Krall, Stan Getz, Norman Brown, Fattburger) and mainstream Rock 'n Roll (Rolling Stones, Sheryl Crow, U2, Steely Dan) mostly....very little rap music. I don't require such a strong sub/sub amp that will cause car alarms to go off!!

Here's a list of subwoofers mentioned on this site. Some of these require a custom ring/dynamat while still fitting in the available space. If you have anyone of these, please feel free to offer any advice:

JL Audo 10" IB4
BOSS Sub with 92 db sensitivity
Cerwin Vega Stealth III 10.4 with 93 db
JVC CSLD3250
Kicker 10" O1C104
Pioneer TS-W28C
Boston Acoustic Pro 10" (did your custom fiberglass box fit in the available space? If so, what kind of cost? Results?)

Let me know how you like your system, what kind of sound you get, how happy/unhappy you are, improvements you want to make, if you used a custom ring to make the sub fit and what kind of amp & power you are using.

Will be shopping around this weekend....would like some advice from others I can trust....so I can keep all those aggressive sales reps on their heels!!!

 

[mcclendons]

I have not "amped' yet, so no real advice there. I use a Pioneer w-28C sub and it is OK, but could use an amp

Did want to make one comment, just to make sure you are not hoping for too much. Amping the sub will not free up power for other speakers. The sub has it's own small amp now, you would be replacing it with a much better one. The main speakers run off a seperate amp, so no gain. The main amp DOES drive the subs amp (I have been told), but it is a very high impedance connection and does not draw much power. Make sure any amp you get has "speaker level" input (assuming the above is true).

 

[Mark Turner]

Now That is Useful Information

mcclendons:

I didn't realize I already had a sub amp powering the current stock sub woofer. As you picked up, I was expecting a sub amp to open up all this extra power, and really making the new speakers "sing."

I was setting myself up for a major disappointment.

I appreciate your input.

 

[Dr. Duan]

Mark,

I have just installed the BOSS sub ( you must have read my review). The improvements are noticable, especially in how tight the bass sound. However, it did not change the world.

Although the sub has its own power amp, adding a more powerful amp will certainly help to free up the main amp. The reason it can help is that you can adjust the volume on the new sub amp to add more bass so you don't have to turn the bass all the way up for the main amp that drives other door speakers. As one of the guys mentioned here, he acutually has to turn the bass down after installed the addional amp. As you know, bass is what eats the power. By doing this, you can have more headrooms in the main amp and let the sub amp to crack out most of the bass notes.

In addition the door pannels that mounts the speakers are plastic and adding high level bass will cause the plastic to vibrate. Although adding Dynamate can help but it will not eliminate the problems.

Personally, I've just got the BOSS sub installed and I found it is a lot better with a tight bass. But to futher improve the sound, I would change the sub amp first as I belive this will be the best bang for the bugs! I just hope someone here can tell me how to remove the back pannel to expose the sub amp so I can change to something better. I've found a couple of small amps that are about 100 watts at 4 ohms which should be enough for me. BTW, the BOSS sub can handle 225 Watt RMS. It is more than enough for me.

Have fun!

 

[Mark Turner]

Subs Will Not Change The World? Uh oh...

Guess I have been expecting more than what could be delivered by a new stereo sub and sub amp. Thanks for the insight.

Just when I thought I could "change the world"........just kidding!

When I read your review, I was interested in your BOSS sub and intrigued that you didn't add sub amp power. You used the stock amp and are still pleased with your results.

I may have to rethink my position on sub amps. While it is clear the benefits are there, you have raised a point about plastic vibration inside the MDX. That would drive me crazy. These MDX's are well designed and I've had no problems with needless rattling.....

The reason for my upgrade is to give my sound system a clean, tight sound that is crisp and accurate. I really don't have issues with the lack of volume that some on this sight have mentioned as an issue.

So, you feel 100 watts at 4 ohms will give your new BOSS sub enough power? I was under the impression that 300 watts at 4 ohms would be what a sub amp needed....Do you think that 300 watts is overkill? Again, just as you, I really don't want a monster bass that overwhelms the music......

Thanks for the response!

 

[Dr. Duan]

Mark,

300 watts will be overkill. The stock sub amp could be about 25 to at most 50 watts based on its size some of the members mentioned in their posts. When I turned the volume all the way up, I can actually feel the outside of the car metal vibrate with the music (go and try it yourself). With the new sub, this is even more noticable! I fear that with 300 watts, you might damage your car if you are not careful with the volume because the sub uses the space behind as the acoustic chamber, unlike a boxed sub!

So, I personally just want to add a bit more bass and feel that 100 watts would be enough (double the current power). This way I could also send most of the bass to the sub to reduce the stress placed on the door speakers mounting plastics.

Why not just change the door speakers first. Even if you don't change the sub, once you installed the Infinity speakers, you might be satisfied enough. To me, this is a lot more critical than the sub.

Today I went out with my wife and even her noticed right a way that the sound is "signifincatly more clean, clear and pleasent" than before.

I feel like a hero again!

 

[Mark Turner]

Numbers I Can Use!!

You are the hero once again!

I've been trying to get ahold of some numbers that were realistic. You have done it. Thanks! I am not an audiofile. Just a consumer that wants to make a good decision.

With all the discussion of 2 ohm vs. 4 ohm resistence, how much sub amps have really high power requirements, and all these sub amps marketed with 200, 300, 400 watts and beyond.....I really didn't have a realistic perspective as to what kind of power is needed.

Speaker replacement is the first step. Then, a sub amp if its needed.

Bases loaded, two outs, bottom of the ninth, down by 3 and Dr. Duan cranks a HR out of the ballpark!

Thanks for the advice....you 'da man!