No on the drilled rotors. They are far less reliable than solid rotors and are prone to cracking. The only advantage they offer is a bit more initial bite when wet as the water can recede into the holes. But they do not stay cooler than non-drilled rotors. The idea is that air flows thru them and provides an air cooled design, but there's no way to quantity it. Without air flow running thru them, they would actually cause the rotor to get hotter. The heat dissipation of the material used is higher than that of air.
If you want a performance rotor, get a slotted rotor. The slots provide an escape for the gas created during braking. They don't bite into the pad more, but they help to maintain a more solid grab between pads and rotor.
Direction on slots does not matter. What matters is the direction of the internal vanes of the rotor. If they are straight vaned, then you can put them on whichever side you want.
Well, drilled rotors don't perform any better then non-drilled rotors. The only mild advantage they have is if the rotors get wet, and that's only on the first time you use them. After you apply the brakes once or twice, they're dry.thanks for the info. what about the slotted cross drilled rotor combo? is that better or that will perform as cross drilled rotors as well? Thanks
Well if you're comparing to warped rotors, then anything will give better grip. Warped rotors are a nightmare, not just by themselves, but the vibrations cause excessive wear to control arms, bushings, chassis components, and so on. Warped rotors are really a pain in the arse and they're enough to drive people like me completely mad.I have slotted/drilled rotors mainly for looks. My OEM rotors were warped. It seems like there is a lot more grip when braking from various speeds. Even after having them for about 4k miles. I have the Nakamodo brand.
do you remember where you bought your stuff? i am looking to buy. i googled and this was all that came up... not sure if this is the only source:No issues with noise, fade, brake dust, or warping with my set-up after +65,000 miles.
Never heard of that in my life. The slots don't grab the pads any more than a plain rotor. The edge of the pad doesn't dip into the slot, nor are the edges of the slots raised. They just allow the gas to escape so the pad can maintain a more consistent contact with the rotor.any noise complaints from slotted rotors? i've been cautioned in the past about the edge of the pads clipping the slots as it turns which can result in noise...?
from google:Never heard of that in my life. The slots don't grab the pads any more than a plain rotor. The edge of the pad doesn't dip into the slot, nor are the edges of the slots raised. They just allow the gas to escape so the pad can maintain a more consistent contact with the rotor.
looks are not a big thing for me, except for rust. just tired at throwing money away getting these stupid oem rotors machined over and over again.Again, I changed mine to slotted/drilled for looks. I'm not racing my MDX so the wear and tear should be about the same as a solid disc.
I've had slotted and drilled/slotted and neither ever produced any audible clicking sound. If the rotors are properly turned after the slots are milled, there should be no raised edges. Who knows, maybe the gas escaping makes a noise but it never happened with my setups. If there was a bit of a lip, a light chamfer on the edges of the slots would cure the issue immediately. If/when I replace the ruptures on mine, I might run high end slotted rotors on the front, but I certainly won't use drilled rotors. I'd rather get a big brake kit and use solid rotors though.