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I was able to find some used struts from a 2009 Base model mdx, but I haven't purchased them yet. Do you guys think it would be better to start fresh and get KYB struts all around and moog strut mounts and try to reuse some of the other components from the ADS strut?

The cost of the used strut assembly for the front are $100 a piece with a 1 year warranty from a junk yard and then I would just get some KYB shocks for the rear.

This is would be the cost of the KYB struts/shocks all around along with some other parts that I am not sure if I need or not.


Part Price Quantity Total
2009 ACURA MDX 3.7L V6
Suspension : Shock Absorber
KYB 349025 {#52610STXA02, 52610STXA04} GR-2 / Excel-G Info
Rear; Except Electronic Adjustable Suspension

$55.79
2
$111.58
Remove
Suspension : Stabilizer Bar Link
MOOG K750124 {#51320S0XC01, K750090} Problem Solver Info
Front
Previous Image

Next Image
$22.79
2
$45.58
Remove
MOOG K750750 Problem Solver Info
Rear Left

$25.89
1
$25.89
Remove
MOOG K750749 Problem Solver Info
Rear Right

$25.89
1
$25.89
Remove
Suspension : Strut Mount
MOOG K160218 {#51726SJCA03, 51920STXA01} Problem Solver; Includes Bearing Info
Front; Superior Rubber To Steel Bonding For Durability; Except Sport Package

$37.79
2
$75.58
Remove
Suspension : Strut
KYB 339038 {#51606STXA03, 51606STXA05} GR-2 / Excel-G; Features an internal, anti-rollover spring (may cause extended length to appear shorter) Info
Front Left; Except Electronic Adjustable Suspension
We also offer Strut / Coil Spring / Mount Assemblies, which include all of the components required for strut replacement in a single unit (cutting down on installation time).
Previous Image

Next Image
$89.89
1
$89.89
Remove
KYB 339037 {#51605STXA03, 51605STXA05} GR-2 / Excel-G; Features an internal, anti-rollover spring (may cause extended length to appear shorter) Info
Front Right; Except Electronic Adjustable Suspension
We also offer Strut / Coil Spring / Mount Assemblies, which include all of the components required for strut replacement in a single unit (cutting down on installation time).
Previous Image

Next Image
$89.89
1
$89.89
Remove
Subtotal $464.30
Country Zip/Postal Code
Calculate Shipping
Shipping
Total $464.30


Do you guys think it would be a good idea to get new stabilizer endlinks for the front and rear?
 

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I just switched from ADS to regular Monroe struts all around on 2007 MDX. The ride could not be softer, even thou i had to play with front ones cause they were a bit shorter comparing o originals. The rear ones i even did not have to remove the wheels it came of that easy. It still reads the error that ADS must be checked so i ordered 4 resistors 1 ohm 10 watt, will see how it works. My suggestion if you change the front struts get the whole assembly if you can. It will safe you a lot time and nerves especially if you do it by your self.
Hi Stasymba,

I am planning to use KYB shocks all around, did you use the same springs or did you buy new ones?


Thanks,

Bob
 

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Recently did the conversion using the OEM front assembly. Ride is much better. However, have some wheel shake at highway speeds. Had the tires checked and balance is good. Doesn't really pull to one side. Can changing front assembly effect alignment? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Ian
 

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Recently did the conversion using the OEM front assembly. Ride is much better. However, have some wheel shake at highway speeds. Had the tires checked and balance is good. Doesn't really pull to one side. Can changing front assembly effect alignment? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Ian
It can, because the upper strut mount sets the caster, and I would assume it has some effect on the toe. Another thing to look at is the axles- worn CV joints can cause a vibration at speed.

This video helped me set the toe in my garage:
 

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I'm about to convert my front struts on a 2007 acura mdx and also want to eliminate the ADS error from posting .

I see 2 post saying indicating resister are either 2ohm/10watt (rear) and 5ohm/10watt (front) and the other post saying 1ohm/10watt on all 4.

For those of u that have done the conversion... which resister size works best?
 

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Remember that you have a "Sport" model and it needs to be in the "Sport" mode, before you disconnect the old shocks. I disconnected the battery, after I put it in to "Sport" mode.
Once complete, the ADS warning light will come on only, if you put the MDX in to "Comfort" mode. You'll have to go back to "Sport" mode and drive for about 500 miles, before the ADS warning light will go off, on its own.
Or you can put it in "Sport" mode, disconnect the battery, and disconnect and reconnect each resistor.

I used:

Mouser dot com front 5 ohm 10 w part #71-cp00105r000je14
rear 2 ohm 10 w part #71-cp00102r000ke14
 

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Remember that you have a "Sport" model and it needs to be in the "Sport" mode, before you disconnect the old shocks. I disconnected the battery, after I put it in to "Sport" mode.
Once complete, the ADS warning light will come on only, if you put the MDX in to "Comfort" mode. You'll have to go back to "Sport" mode and drive for about 500 miles, before the ADS warning light will go off, on its own.
Or you can put it in "Sport" mode, disconnect the battery, and disconnect and reconnect each resistor.

I used:

Mouser dot com front 5 ohm 10 w part #71-cp00105r000je14
rear 2 ohm 10 w part #71-cp00102r000ke14

I am totally not technical or mechanical but I have a model with the ADS shocks...and so I am wondering here...


If regular shocks are put in upon turn it to sport mode, is it possible to just disconnect either the cable or the fuse or whatever controls that button so it cannot be put in "comfort" mode? I will assume because they are regular shocks, the modes can't be switched back and forth anyways, so it is possible to just disable the ability to switch between them?


Maybe I am dense, but with the ADS shocks (Acura put them in March 2017), I don't seem to notice any difference between sport and comfort mode. Maybe my bum is just desensitized or something.
 

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2011 MDX with Advance: I just changed my shocks and struts all around at 150,000 miles. This was the second change of the ADS shocks/struts. First was via the recall. I bought my parts from Rock Auto. I did a ton of research and they were the best overall value I found.

I paid $287 total for fully assembled struts and shocks. Parts came quickly, well packaged and no damaged. Everything was bolt-in and matched up perfectly.

Like most, I went to standard shocks and struts because I was not willing to spend the money for the adaptive versions. I've had the new parts installed for a couple of weeks and the ride is great. Car feels much more composed on the road. I also replaced the tires and had a 4-wheel alignment done immediately.

I used Uxcell 10W 5-ohm cement resistors for the front. Uxcell 10W 2-ohm cement resistors for the rear. I used these because of the 10W rating. Most resistors are rated for much lower power input (2 watts or less from my research). These are big components, about 2 inches long, and the leads are only about an inch long. This meant the OEM connector had to come off. I couldn't just bend the leads into shape and plug the resistor directly into the OEM connector. Here was my process:
  • Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery
  • Separate 2-piece OEM connector to expose 2-wires inserted into the connector
  • Cut the wires at the connector to leave as much wire as possible
  • Carefully slice the jacket around the two wires inside the jacket about 3-inches back. I used a new blade in my razor knife and held the end of the jacket with a set of pliers.
  • Using two sets of needle nose pliers, I pulled the jacket back to expose the inner wires and snipped off the excess jacket.
  • Strip about an inch of insulation off the red and white wire leads.
  • Twist the bare wires tightly
  • Tin the twisted wires with solder
  • Slide a small length of heat shrink over the tinned lead and then solder the resistor lead to the tinned wire
  • Slide the length of heat shrink over the connection and secure with a heat gun or blow torch (be careful with a blow torch, you can easily melt the solder joint)
  • I put a second larger heat shrink tube over the entire resistor and wires and wrapped with electrical tape to ensure it stays dry
  • Zip tie everything up out of the way of any moving parts
  • Reconnect the positive battery lead
  • ADS button should stay in the Comfort setting
I have no warning lights on the dash. Problem solved.
 

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2011 MDX with Advance: I just changed my shocks and struts all around at 150,000 miles. This was the second change of the ADS shocks/struts. First was via the recall. I bought my parts from Rock Auto. I did a ton of research and they were the best overall value I found.

I paid $287 total for fully assembled struts and shocks. Parts came quickly, well packaged and no damaged. Everything was bolt-in and matched up perfectly.

Like most, I went to standard shocks and struts because I was not willing to spend the money for the adaptive versions. I've had the new parts installed for a couple of weeks and the ride is great. Car feels much more composed on the road. I also replaced the tires and had a 4-wheel alignment done immediately.

I used Uxcell 10W 5-ohm cement resistors for the front. Uxcell 10W 2-ohm cement resistors for the rear. I used these because of the 10W rating. Most resistors are rated for much lower power input (2 watts or less from my research). These are big components, about 2 inches long, and the leads are only about an inch long. This meant the OEM connector had to come off. I couldn't just bend the leads into shape and plug the resistor directly into the OEM connector. Here was my process:
  • Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery
  • Separate 2-piece OEM connector to expose 2-wires inserted into the connector
  • Cut the wires at the connector to leave as much wire as possible
  • Carefully slice the jacket around the two wires inside the jacket about 3-inches back. I used a new blade in my razor knife and held the end of the jacket with a set of pliers.
  • Using two sets of needle nose pliers, I pulled the jacket back to expose the inner wires and snipped off the excess jacket.
  • Strip about an inch of insulation off the red and white wire leads.
  • Twist the bare wires tightly
  • Tin the twisted wires with solder
  • Slide a small length of heat shrink over the tinned lead and then solder the resistor lead to the tinned wire
  • Slide the length of heat shrink over the connection and secure with a heat gun or blow torch (be careful with a blow torch, you can easily melt the solder joint)
  • I put a second larger heat shrink tube over the entire resistor and wires and wrapped with electrical tape to ensure it stays dry
  • Zip tie everything up out of the way of any moving parts
  • Reconnect the positive battery lead
  • ADS button should stay in the Comfort setting
I have no warning lights on the dash. Problem solved.
Definitely a cheaper option than the conversion kit available from RockAuto
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10854760&cc=3015093&jsn=369
 
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