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I just did the conversion yesterday and I'm so happy I did. I live in Alberta, CAN so there's no way I was dishing out $4k for new shocks and will last who knows how long. The ads struts were swapped out at 150k and I'm only at 226k now, so that's tells you how durable they are. I was told by the dealership that the ads doesn't like our cold climate which is why they fail pre maturely, so perhaps if you are in a warmer climate, you'll have better luck.
All in all I'm happy with the result and I even took a chance with the autoshack struts off of Amazon for $300 and I had to buy a $15 worth of random resistors lol (please don't judge). Will see how they hold up in our cold climate as they do have a 6 month warranty.
If you are thinking about doing the conversion, just do it and you'll be happy u did :)
 

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I did my rear shock conversion in NY this week and am so glad to report back, no error light! Bought rear KYB's on amazon for ~$60 and resistors on ebay for ~$5. They fit right into the plug and taped them in, no wire stripping or sodering. Hope it lasts, will report back if they don't. Labor for rear shock was $180. Total was under $315, easily saved 2k with this process. Thank you so much for everyone who contributed to figuring this out!

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I recently bought a 2011 MDX Advanced for my 17 yo daughter and it had the ADS warning light on when I purchased it (got it from the auction) Ive had it inspected by our mechanics and he told me that the rear struts had been replaced with aftermarket but the front were still the original. Whoever replaced the rear struts did not fix the light so it stays on. The mechanic said the front OEM were still fine, and really didn't need replacing. The vehicle shifts hard from 1st 2nd & 3rd gears and I've had 2 different transmission shops inspect the trans and they told me it was fine. My brother has a friend who used to work as a mechanic for a Honda dealership tell him that it was possible that since the ADS light was on (although the struts in the rear are functioning properly) that it could be causing the transmission to shift like that because the computer thinks there's a problem with the ADS and that if I get the light module to turn the ADS light off it could clear up the hard shifting issue. My question is has anyone else had an issue with the trans hard shifting when the ADS went bad or ADS light on? Is that a possible solution to fixing the hard shift? The mechanic also told him that if the trans has ever been rebuilt that sometimes they just shift hard like that for the rest of the vehicles life. It's kind of annoying and if getting the ADS light turned off will fix the problem then I think I'm gonna buy a set of front struts from strutmasters with with the light module and just roll with it. Thanks in advance.....
 

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I changed the rear on my 2010 Advance Today. I've had this car for about 50K miles now. I'm up to 165K. I bit the bullet when I first bought the car and did the fronts. Now the rear are gone, so I bought KYB's and the resisters from Amazon. I cut off one of the connectors and soldiered in the resister. I did not disconnect the battery and I have not thrown a code yet and did a 50 mile trip today. It looks like one of the shocks in the rear was bad, it was covered in oil and hard to move by hand. Wow what an improvement on the ride these new shocks make. It is hard for me to judge if this is a better ride than ADS on all 4 corners, but I don't recall the car ever riding better than it does now. The left rear was starting to make a big bang over sizable bumps. I'll replace the front when they go out
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Greg T...I made the swap to non-ADS shocks and liked the ride. About a year later Acura sent me a "warranty extension" notice and I qualified. I had not cut my connectors, to install the resistors, as you have done. It made putting my old "busted" system back easy. Acura replaced all four of the ADS shocks and I used them for about 8 months and about 8,000 miles. I noticed that the ADS "comfort" mode was very soft and reminded me of driving a Buick. The "Sport" mode was stiffer, but not as stiff/truck like as the non-ADS set up. With either system, I could not say that I noticed (per the seat of my pants) any difference, when accelerating aggressively in a curve.
 

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Greg T...I made the swap to non-ADS shocks and liked the ride. About a year later Acura sent me a "warranty extension" notice and I qualified. I had not cut my connectors, to install the resistors, as you have done. It made putting my old "busted" system back easy. Acura replaced all four of the ADS shocks and I used them for about 8 months and about 8,000 miles. I noticed that the ADS "comfort" mode was very soft and reminded me of driving a Buick. The "Sport" mode was stiffer, but not as stiff/truck like as the non-ADS set up. With either system, I could not say that I noticed (per the seat of my pants) any difference, when accelerating aggressively in a curve.
I noticed the comfort mode ride taking corners was wayyyyy better than sport for whatever reason. Besides that the sport was better suited for bumps and pot holes.


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2012 MDX Advance with shot front and rear struts. Going to do the rears tonight. The resistors for the rears are backorded on Mouser so I purchased on Amazon. The leads are extremely short, doesnt look like I can plug into the plug as-is. Will I be OK to solder an extension on?
115753
 

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2012 MDX Advance with shot front and rear struts. Going to do the rears tonight. The resistors for the rears are backorded on Mouser so I purchased on Amazon. The leads are extremely short, doesnt look like I can plug into the plug as-is. Will I be OK to solder an extension on? View attachment 115753
I used these resistors at all corners. The tabs were just long enough to line up with the plug contacts with good insertion length. If you line your bends up and they're too short the yes I would solder in something to make them more secure. I then wrapped them up with a layer of 3M double sided tape, then a layer of self-fusing tape to prevent exposure. Then I zip tied them out of the way.

Did this last summer. Now the ADS warning only comes on if someone switched it to sport and I have been driving that way for some time. Next engine cycle it's clear with the switch back to comfort.

I'm happy that the cost of replacing all shocks went from $4000 down to $650 (CAD)


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After reading & rereading these posts over a month I decided to take the plunge. My 2007 Acura MDX SH-AWD has four bad struts.... so I decided to do what most here have done & downgrade the front to the OEM Acura NON ADS parts. I received these confirmed correct & completely assembled (spring+strut+Assembly) front struts:
51601-STX-A06 SHOCK ABSORBER ASSY., R. FR.
51602-STX-A06 SHOCK ABSORBER ASSY., L. FR.

Now the bad news... the lower knuckle does not match my car and therefore these two front NON ADS struts can be used. Have I missed some critical component to this project? Am I supposed to buy a new knuckle assembly to be able to utilize these new Non ADs struts? Thanks in advance for any help!!

Photos comparing OEM stock ADS struts to the OEM non ADS struts.
 

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Those are the correct OEM part numbers for the front complete "loaded" shock assembles.
What do you mean, by "the lower knuckle does not match my car"?
Are your new front loaded assemblies from Honda/Acura or are they from Gabriel or Monroe?
The passenger's side gets the part number beginning in "51601".
The driver's side gets the part number with "51602.
You can not reverse them.
 

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Thanks C... so I'm replacing the stock original Acura ADS assemblies... front left & right. Yes... these are for sure the correct non-ADS version of the Acura parts. So not sure if you're able to see the photos I linked... but the lower assembly with the two holed that bolt to the knuckle assembly are not the same. The holes are further apart, and the entire metal piece with the holes through it sits at a different angle & won't match up to my stock knuckle. So everything else looks perfect... top of the strut assembly matches perfect.
Let me know if you can't see those photos & I'll post them in line. P.s. I already replaced the rear strut with KYB... no problem.
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Your new shocks do not have any Honda/Acura stickers/part numbers and they have different bolt spacing.
You need to return them and get the correct ones.

Did you buy them from one of these Acura online dealers:

hondapartsunlimited dot com Phoenix, AZ

newoempartsonline dot com Savannah, GA

bernardiparts dot com Boston, MA

acurapartsforless dot com New Jersey

acuraexpressparts dot com Chicago, iL

oemacuraparts dot com Peoria, AZ

macchurchill dot com Ft Worth, TX

acurapartshq dot com Las Vegas, NV

acuraoemparts dot com DelRay Beach, FL
 

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Thanks C, you're 100% right... one of the struts I ordered had the wrong part in the box. Lesson #1 NEVER EVER EVER place an order for parts & NOT inspect the contents immediately before taking possession. This is the 2nd time so far parts were incorrectly packaged.

Working on getting the one strut returned now. Thanks very much for the tip... and I'll update here once the work is completed.
 

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Update on replacing OEM Acura non ADS front strut assembly:
My 2007 Acura MDX SH-AWD has four bad struts.... so I decided to do what most here have done & downgrade the front to the OEM Acura NON ADS parts.
51601-STX-A06 SHOCK ABSORBER ASSY., R. FR.
51602-STX-A06 SHOCK ABSORBER ASSY., L. FR.
Rears: KYB 349025 Excel-G Gas Shock from Amazon
RES,CR-RC10,AXIAL LEADS, 5 OHM 10 WATT,10%,CEMENT,WIREWOUND Resistor Cement
2246590 CR10-2.0-RC RES,CR-RC10,AXIAL LEADS, 2.0 OHM 10 WATT,10%,CEMENT,WIREWOUND Resistor Cement

Work done at a local shop, and now the car truly rides like new again... no ADS faults!! I didn't take much advantage of the SPORT setting on the old ADS system, and I'd equate the ride to be VERY similar to the old comfort setting. Really a nice ride... couldn't be happier.

My sincere thanks to everyone that added to this thread.. I couldn't have done this without all the input I researched here!!
 

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So I am seeing some people use 5 OHM 10 Watt and others using 1 OHM 10 Watt for the fronts. Do we have a consensus on which ones, or do they just both work?
 

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So just yesterday I found out that you have to buy the entire strut assembly if converting from ads to regular. With that being said wow is there a difference in the beefyness of each (I will post a pic of the ads vs the regular). I tried the autoshack aftermarket shock, just forget about it because they are so bouncy. I'm driving with my originals until they get too bad to drive.
For anyone who has converted to the regulars, how would you say they are in comparison because like I said before the shock and spring are way bigger than the regular shock.
Thanks
 

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My non-ads set up has a ride which is slightly stiffer than my old ADS Sport.
I also used the MDX Base model complete front assemblies and KYB rear shocks.
I have my Comfort/Sport" button set to "comfort", with resistors listed in post #621 (above).

I was able to get a good feel of the non-ads setup, before Acura replaced my ADS setup under warranty. I drove on the new ADS setup for about 7 or 8 months before I removed it and put the non-ads setup back. The non ADS is slightly stiffer than a new ADS setup.
 

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Update on local Canadian prices for the ADS suspension....what in the actual f***...

The front ADV quick strut is $1998.56 each plus tax, labour to install is extra.
The rear strut is $925.91 each plus tax, labour to install is extra.

I laughed at the parts guy pretty bad...
 
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