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For those who have less than 150k, call up Acura about a them prematurely failing. At $933 for just the one shock (that's just for the part) they should not be failing so soon.
For guys like me who have 235k on them, strutmasters has a conversion kit right now for $1050 ($1500 for Canadians). Comes with 4 shocks and whatever they use to keep the ads light from coming on.
I definitely regret getting the elite for this annoying reason.
 

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strutmasters has a conversion kit right now for $1050 ($1500 for Canadians). Comes with 4 shocks and whatever they use to keep the ads light from coming on.
That's way too expensive. You can get OEM front damper assemblies and rear shocks with new hardware for under CAD $1000 and add the resistors for another $20. Why would anyone buy an inferior aftermarket product for 1.5 the price of the OEM?
 

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For those who have less than 150k, call up Acura about a them prematurely failing. At $933 for just the one shock (that's just for the part) they should not be failing so soon.
For guys like me who have 235k on them, strutmasters has a conversion kit right now for $1050 ($1500 for Canadians). Comes with 4 shocks and whatever they use to keep the ads light from coming on.
I definitely regret getting the elite for this annoying reason.
I have 2011 Acura MDX with only 92,000kms
You think they will replace mine as goodwill? What number do I call?
 

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That's way too expensive. You can get OEM front damper assemblies and rear shocks with new hardware for under CAD $1000 and add the resistors for another $20. Why would anyone buy an inferior aftermarket product for 1.5 the price of the OEM?
Where do you get these resistors? A friend of mine looked into having this work done Acura wouldn't install anything but the electronic shocks and Honda would do the regular shocks but wouldn't do anything about the ads light coming on.
Thanks
 

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Get these resistors:
mouser dot com front 2 ea. 5 ohm 71-cp00105r000je14 resistors

rear 2 ea. 2 ohm 71-cp00102r000ke14 resistors

Mechanics don't like doing non OEM work, because they don't know if what you have read on the internet is true, they don't know if the parts that you bought are correct, they don't want extra hassle, and they can make $$$$ following the manufactures' recommended instructions.

If you have jack stands, and know how to take nuts on and off, you can convert your
ADS to non-ADS in half a day. My hardest part was trying to save the front swaybar end links. I ended up cutting them off, with my grinder and buying two new ones for
$11 each...2 ea front end links AC Delco #88876421
 

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Hi, any ideas what the problem may be with my strut? I uploaded a video of what the strut does and sounds like when driving at slow speeds over bumps. Brand new strut Mount installed.
I appreciate any suggestions, I really hope it's not the shock but if it is, theres no chance I'm putting in a $933 shock.
This is a 2010 elite with 226k brand new shocks installed at 160k.
 

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Hi, any ideas what the problem may be with my strut? I uploaded a video of what the strut does and sounds like when driving at slow speeds over bumps. Brand new strut Mount installed.
I appreciate any suggestions, I really hope it's not the shock but if it is, theres no chance I'm putting in a $933 shock.
This is a 2010 elite with 226k brand new shocks installed at 160k.
You install yourself with OEM struts?
That was the sound from your wrench hitting the metal part of your car.


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Get these resistors:
mouser dot com front 2 ea. 5 ohm 71-cp00105r000je14 resistors

rear 2 ea. 2 ohm 71-cp00102r000ke14 resistors

Mechanics don't like doing non OEM work, because they don't know if what you have read on the internet is true, they don't know if the parts that you bought are correct, they don't want extra hassle, and they can make $$$$ following the manufactures' recommended instructions.

If you have jack stands, and know how to take nuts on and off, you can convert your
ADS to non-ADS in half a day. My hardest part was trying to save the front swaybar end links. I ended up cutting them off, with my grinder and buying two new ones for
$11 each...2 ea front end links AC Delco #88876421

Which page is the instructions on how to install these resistors? Are there any videos or photos? Thanks in advance!
 

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[QUOTE="Jim R, post: 670650, member: 48481"

The resistors I put inline for the rear shocks have worked fine in Comfort mode, but when the Sport mode is activated, it takes about 10 minutes or less for the computer to indicate a problem with the ADS. Switch back to Comfort mode, and the code disappears when the vehicle is restarted.
[/QUOTE]
Jim, I know this is an old thread but a new issue for me. I’m wondering if you resolved the code issue. Did you try any other resistors or just not drive with Sport mode? Thanks.
 

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Hey all, just wanted to share my experience. I recently bought an 07 sport and one of the front ADS struts was not dampening at all. After checking all the electrical connections etc. I gave up and decided to change out the whole system - meaning I converted from an ADS system to the standard MDX system (non-electronic struts). Reason being I was not willing to invest the $ to replace one strut and take a chance on the other strut or either shock in the rear going out and pouring more $ into the suspension. My MDX has 117K on it and I plan to take it to over 200K so I figured it best to rid myself of the issue now and forever. So, I ordered entire OEM strut assemblies for the front and KYB shocks for the rear. R&R was a piece of cake as it's been a southern car it's whole life so all the fasteners we're clean and rust-free. I then placed a 1 ohm 10 watt resistor (radio shack - $1.25/each) on each connector that was previously running to the shocks/struts. This has turned off the ADS warning lights inside the car. I've only been running this way for a few days but so far all is well. Just wanted to share my feedback in case others we're considering doing the same.
Did you just plug The resistor into the factory connector?
 

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So there is bad news and bad news concerning Acura's ADS system. In short, the system sucks and it is very worth going out of your way to make sure that it is NOT on the vehicle you purchase. The system is just to fragile to continuously do what it's suppose to do, there are a few "hacks" that might help but there's just not any one killer fix for the system.
The connections leak and like to corrode so one hack is to disconnect the battery, disconnect the strut connection and lightly clean both ends with green scratch pad / steel wool etc, spray with electrical connection cleaner, then heavily coat with dielectric gel and reconnect.
A lot of people have also and good luck replacing the ADS struts with regular OEM struts and putting KYB shocks on the rear.

Good Luck
 

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[QUOTE="Jim R, post: 670650, member: 48481"

The resistors I put inline for the rear shocks have worked fine in Comfort mode, but when the Sport mode is activated, it takes about 10 minutes or less for the computer to indicate a problem with the ADS. Switch back to Comfort mode, and the code disappears when the vehicle is restarted.
Jim, I know this is an old thread but a new issue for me. I’m wondering if you resolved the code issue. Did you try any other resistors or just not drive with Sport mode? Thanks.
[/QUOTE]
Put it in comfort mode, disconnect the battery, remove and unplug the comfort/sport button, install the resistors, change the shocks, connect the battery, and you won't be able to use the button, because you disconnected it.
Not having a button, to ask the ecu to engage a different mode, is what you need.
 

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[QUOTE="Jim R, post: 670650, member: 48481"

The resistors I put inline for the rear shocks have worked fine in Comfort mode, but when the Sport mode is activated, it takes about 10 minutes or less for the computer to indicate a problem with the ADS. Switch back to Comfort mode, and the code disappears when the vehicle is restarted.
Jim, I know this is an old thread but a new issue for me. I’m wondering if you resolved the code issue. Did you try any other resistors or just not drive with Sport mode? Thanks.
[/QUOTE]

I just drive in comfort mode, and try not to accidentally engage Sport Mode. Sometimes when driving on roads with many small hills and/or dips in succession, the ADS code light will come on. So far it has always disappeared when restarting the car.

Jim R
 

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Jim, I know this is an old thread but a new issue for me. I’m wondering if you resolved the code issue. Did you try any other resistors or just not drive with Sport mode? Thanks.
I just drive in comfort mode, and try not to accidentally engage Sport Mode. Sometimes when driving on roads with many small hills and/or dips in succession, the ADS code light will come on. So far it has always disappeared when restarting the car.

Jim R[/QUOTE]

You need to disconnect the tilt sensor on all four corners that attached to the LCA. The function of these sensor is to tell the ECU to send the signal to the electromagnetic shock to increase the amount of resistance to counter body roll or nose dive during hard braking.


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