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Help!!!...I have a 2016 MDX and the rear end feels like its in the back seat when you hit a bump....I do not know what to do, but I do know the Acura dealer has been no help, saying this is the way it is.
DBH, you're at the right spot, for help and advise.
Which 2016 MDX model do you have...Advance?
 

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Strutmaster.com conversion or get the part numbers for OEM parts online
Right... I meant I know the parts to get (probably will get the cheaper parts mentioned in the other thread (ADS suspension to regular conversion *results*) - its more of a good mechanic that is familiar with this plight and who might also be able to do the cheaper resistor based "fix" as well... instead of the high price for the Strutmaster electronic fix.
 

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Got rid of the Strutmasters front suspension and installed the Acura OEM Parts. World of frigging difference! From ride quality to no noise. Reminder: I should always go with my instincts.

I have plans to replace the two rear strut master shocks as well. I have the replacement OEM just waiting to be installed.

Strutmasters kicked and screamed some, but in the end refunded me almost enough to pay for the two front Acura OEM Strut assemblies.
Did you end up keeping the lights out module? If so where is it installed, at the struts where the plugs were or in the trunk with the ADS module?
 

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Did you end up keeping the lights out module? If so where is it installed, at the struts where the plugs were or in the trunk with the ADS module?
I did end up keeping the module, that is the only decent part of the system, it is located in the trunk and was super easy to install...so are the resistors though too lol. I preferred the module
 

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I have made my own resistors in the past where you tap the box in the rear trunk but I left all corners open to weather. Wondering if water got inside of my plugs and corroded the wires. Or maybe my wires from splicing isn’t connected? I have made numerous attempts with different resistors of all types and still getting light on. It’s so annoying and I don’t feel safe driving it while ads is trickled. It doesn’t detect vsa stability or when I lose control right?
I don't remember is the light should be on or off.

In the area of the tach, you will see "Comfort" or Sport" when you start the car.

You need to see "Comfort" then turn off the engine and disconnect the 12v battery.
Pull out each resistor, then reconnect each resistor and tape them in place.
Connect the 12v battery.
Do not touch the Comfort/Sport button.
Test drive. If no warnings re-tape each resistor more securely.

I pulled my comfort/sport button out and unplugged it while my 12v battery was disconnected. I did not reconnect the comfort/sport button...I just snapped it back in its hole.
 

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So glad I found this thread! I have a 2008 Acura MDX Sport with leaking/bouncy rear shocks and clunking front struts. So I'm planning on the conversion from ADS to regular as well after being quoted $3,701.39 from an Acura dealership to replace the old ADS with new ADS.

With that said, are there big differences between the OEM shocks/struts and KYB/Monroe/TRQ/Strutmasters/FCS/Gabriel shocks/struts? Below is a list of the prices and links between the different brands. Any guidance would be great!

Acura OEM ($561.53 + tax/shipping from acurapartswarehouse.com)
Front left strut - full assembly (51602-STX-A06): $281.80
Front right strut - full assembly (51601-STX-A06): $281.80
Rear shock (52610-STX-A04): $109.28

KYB Excel-G ($240.64 total from amazon.com)
Front left strut (339038): $94.78
Front right strut (339037): $91.89
Rear shock (349025): $53.79

Monroe ($386.57 total + tax/shipping from rockauto.com)
Front left strut - full assembly (172434): $165.79
Front right strut - full assembly (172433): $166.79
Rear shock (37309): $53.99

TRQ ($364.95 total from aauto.com)
Front strut (full assembly) and rear shock kit: $364.95

Strutmasters ($949 total + tax/shipping from strutmasters.com)
Front strut (full assembly ), rear shock + light out module: $949

Acura Sport OEM Active Damping System ($1,895.20 + tax/shipping from acuarpartswarehouse.com, OUCH!!)
Front left strut - full assembly (51606-STX-365): $585.83
Front right strut - full assembly (51605-STX-365): $585.83
Rear shock (52610-STX-A55): $361.77

FCSAuto ($246.16 + tax/ahipping from rockauto.com)
Front right strut - full assembly (1331715L) - $91.79
Front right strut - full assembly (1331715R) - $90.79
Rear shock (342539): $31.79

Gabriel ($324.36 + tax/ahipping from rockauto.com)
Front right strut - full assembly (G57560) - $120.99
Front right strut - full assembly (G57561) - $131.79
Rear shock (G64080): $35.79
 

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Don't do Strutmasters! I have experience, ping me for questions but in short just DON'T. IMO do yourself a favor and keep it Acura OEM parts.
 

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Good luck and here's a summary:
In order to convert the front, you have to have the assembly (spring/mount/spacers) that belongs to the 2007, 2008, 2009 Acura MDX Base model.

You can not re-use your Sport's front assembly (spring/mount/spacers) when you convert to the Base model's non-ADS set up. The non-ads shock will not fit in to the Sport's larger assembly.

Buy the front Left OEM Base model assy 51601-stx-a06, for $281.72
and the front Right OEM Base model assy 51602-stx-a06, for $281.72
Buy 2 ea. rear KYB 349025, for $51.89 each
get 2 ea 5 ohm resistors 71-cp00105r000je14, for the front at $1.26
2 ea 2 ohm resistors 71-cp00102r000ke14, for the rears, at $1.26

Your front end links will probably not be able to be re-used, so get
2 ea. Acdelco 46G0288A end links, for $11.75 each

This totals $693.24 + shipping

Rockauto dot com has the KYB rear shocks and the Acdelco front end links.
Mouser dot com has the resistors.
Any of these online Acura parts counters have the Base model Assy:

hondapartsunlimited dot com Phoenix, AZ

newoempartsonline dot com Savanh, GA

bernardiparts dot com Boston, MA

acurapartsforless dot com New Jersey

acuraexpressparts dot com Chicago, iL

oemacuraparts dot com Peoria, AZ

macchurchill dot com Ft Worth, TX

acurapartshq dot com Las Vegas, NV

acuraoemparts dot com DelRay Beach, FL
 

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Thanks for the info, I was about to order the KYB front left/right struts hoping to reuse the spring and assembly from the old front ADS struts. So with that out of the question, do you know if there is a big difference between Monroe/FCS/Gabriel full assembly struts vs OEM Acura base model struts?

The Acura OEM Base front struts are $563.60 without tax + shipping. This is $231.02 to $381.02 more than Monroe ($332.58) Gabriel ($252.69), TRQ ($249.95), FCSAuto ($182.58) and struts with complete assemblies. Do you think it's worth the difference in price on a 12 year old car? I'm hoping to get another 4-5 years or 50K miles out of it.

Thanks again in advance for any insight/thoughts on this.

Good luck and here's a summary:
In order to convert the front, you have to have the assembly (spring/mount/spacers) that belongs to the 2007, 2008, 2009 Acura MDX Base model.

You can not re-use your Sport's front assembly (spring/mount/spacers) when you convert to the Base model's non-ADS set up. The non-ads shock will not fit in to the Sport's larger assembly.

Buy the front Left OEM Base model assy 51601-stx-a06, for $281.72
and the front Right OEM Base model assy 51602-stx-a06, for $281.72
Buy 2 ea. rear KYB 349025, for $51.89 each
get 2 ea 5 ohm resistors 71-cp00105r000je14, for the front at $1.26
2 ea 2 ohm resistors 71-cp00102r000ke14, for the rears, at $1.26

Your front end links will probably not be able to be re-used, so get
2 ea. Acdelco 46G0288A end links, for $11.75 each

This totals $693.24 + shipping

Rockauto dot com has the KYB rear shocks and the Acdelco front end links.
Mouser dot com has the resistors.
Any of these online Acura parts counters have the Base model Assy:

hondapartsunlimited dot com Phoenix, AZ

newoempartsonline dot com Savanh, GA

bernardiparts dot com Boston, MA

acurapartsforless dot com New Jersey

acuraexpressparts dot com Chicago, iL

oemacuraparts dot com Peoria, AZ

macchurchill dot com Ft Worth, TX

acurapartshq dot com Las Vegas, NV

acuraoemparts dot com DelRay Beach, FL
.
 

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I think there was one guy that bought StrutMasters and another that bought Monroe. Both said they didn't last and bought KYB or OEM the next time.
Think of all of the advertising costs, which drive the cost of Monroe shocks up so high. Then realize how cheap they must be, to start with.
 

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I should also mention that I am looking to sell the parts I now have left over. I have a driver front ADS strut assembly that was working when removed as well as the two rear ADS shocks (also working when removed). If anyone is interested in the passenger front right ADS strut assembly (for parts) that was not working that is available too. PM me with any offers otherwise they will eventually make it to eBay once I get motivated. :)
If they are still available, I will purchase
the rear shocks from you depending on what you may be asking for them. I have one busted and would like to replace both. What would you like for the pair?
Email me.....
Thanks
 

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So I did the ADS conversion for front and rear. The ride is night and day better now but now I have the VSA light going on right after getting an alignment. My ADS light has been on since I changed the front struts. I wasn't worried about that because I'm guessing I installed the resistor incorrectly. Anyways, I didn't have the ADS light on until after getting an alignment. The alignment shop told me since the ADS light was on it's causing the VSA light to turn on now. Is this true? Has anyone else run into this issue? If so, do I just need to fix the resistors to fix both messages? If so, can someone send me a picture of their resistors so I can see what I did wrong? Any advice/help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Here are some more details and the timeline for reference if that helps:

3 weeks ago: replaced both rear shocks with KYB's. One of the rear shocks was completely seized and fully extended which made it a bear to remove. I had to pry out the shock using a huge pry bar. I'm just glad nothing broke on the lower control arm because I had to put a huge amount force I had put on it to pry out the shock. If I didn't have the seized shock the total job would have been less than an hour for both sides. Anyways, there wasn't anymore bouncing and loud noises when going over bumps on the rear anymore. It took me a couple of days to fix the ADS message but after reinstalling one of the resistors the ADS message went away. If anyone is interested in the other old shock it seemed to be functioning like normal even with 140K miles on it.

Last weekend: I replaced the front struts, stabilizer links and outer tie rod ends (left/right). I decided to use TRQ struts because they were more than half the cost of OEM parts, had good reviews and could be shipped right away because the ride/handling was driving me crazy and it felt sketchy. The install was smooth except for the stabilizer links. The nuts were completely rusted onto the nuts. I didn't have heat so I had to cut the links in half with a grinder and saw off the bottom bolts with a reciprocating saw. Make sure you have good blades for the reciprocating saw because one of the blade's teeth are now gone. After finishing the job the ADS message came on when I drove it. The good news was all the clunks and noises in the suspension went away! I also noticed that the alignment was a little off so I scheduled an alignment a couple of days later. I wasn't too worried about the ADS message because I had the same issue when I replaced the rears and was able to get it to go away

Yesterday: I got an alignment at a local shop. My ADS message was still on when I went to get an alignment. During the alignment, they said the VSA light went on. After the alignment, I called the shop and the guy at the repair shop thinks the ADS message is causing the VSA light to turn on.
 
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