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Anyone get Acura to change them still? Just on their extended warranty, not anything I have bought?
Extended warranty doesn’t qualify shocks as part of the warranty as it’s a “wear and tear item”. You can call customer relations on Acura’s website and complain how a loyal customer who bought the extended warranty is now being told it isn’t going to be covered and has to pay out of pocket. More than likely they will pay for the part and ask you to pay for the labour.


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I finally got around to doing the installation and sure do like the way she rides now. I got new tires so that helped with the ride comfort. Btw, the 5-ohm in the front and 2-ohm in the rear did the trick. I haven't seen the ADS light.
 

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I finally got around to doing the installation and sure do like the way she rides now. I got new tires so that helped with the ride comfort. Btw, the 5-ohm in the front and 2-ohm in the rear did the trick. I haven't seen the ADS light.
What kind of tires did you go for?


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What kind of tires did you go for?


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Continental CrossContact LX. NTB has them on clearance; buy 3 get 1 free promo. Make sure to ask them if they got other discounts they can apply which if you talk to the right sales rep they will probably get you another $20-40 off.
 

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So I take mine to the dealer here in Nashville and am told my VIN never had any extended warranty for the ADS shocks (nor do they or Acura's corporate care even acknowledge that there WAS an extended warranty). I have a 2010 Advance with 90,000 miles. How are some of you getting them to pay for parts now?
 

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2007 - 2013 MDX ADS to non-ADS parts list and suppliers:



mouser dot com front 2 ea. 5 ohm 71-cp00105r000je14 resistors

rear 2 ea. 2 ohm 71-cp00102r000ke14 resistors



Any Acura oem online discount parts supplier:
front left assy 51601-stx-a06

front right assy 51602-stx-a06



Rockauto dot com 2ea rear KYB shocks #349025

2 ea front end links AC Delco #88876421
So those resistors, how are they connected to the existing electrical?

And here is the full list of OEM parts I come up with... so those KYB rears you suggest are just as good or better (and half the price)?

  1. Shock Absorber Assembly, L Front
    $280.11
    Part # 51602-STX-A06
  2. Shock Absorber Assembly, R Front
    $280.11
    Part # 51601-STX-A06
  3. Shock Absorber Assembly, Rear
    $217.62
    Part # 52610-STX-A04
    2x $108.81
  4. Bolt, Dumper (Upper) (12X64)
    $5.54
    Part # 90171-STX-A01
    2x $2.77
  5. Bolt, Damper (Lower) (12X109)
    $7.22
    Part # 90172-STX-A00
    2x $3.61
  6. Bolt, Flange (18X76)
    $21.20
    Part # 90119-SJC-A00
    2x $10.60
  7. Nut, Flange (18MM)
    $4.52
    Part # 90381-SJC-A00
    2x $2.26
 

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You have a transposition in your front shock assy part numbers, but it's no big deal.
KYB makes the OEM rear shocks for Acura and Honda, so they are the same item, with different stickers/labels.
You will not need any of those nuts and bolts, but you will most likely have to cut the end links off of the front swaybar, because that's just how it always goes, with that hex/allen nut design.

The resistors will be bent by you and your needle nosed pliers. Use the tip of the pliers. Here is a link to an incorrectly bent resistor. bent wrong, for MDX

When you look at the female pigtail plug on the mdx you will see 2 holes that are 1/2" apart.

You bent the wires of the resistor so that they lay on the resistor, ie...1st of 2 wires:
1/8" to the left,
1/8" to the left,
and finally (almost at the center of the ceramic resistor) to the right.
Do this to each wire and the wires will point away from the ceramic resistor body and will be 1/2" apart. They slide into the holes of the MDX plug. Tape it, test drive it, and if there are no dash codes tape it better.
 

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Thanks! And what do you mean by transposition? I copy pasted that from checkout on one of the sites. Did I put something wrong in the cart?

The nuts and bolts were on Acura Addict's parts list from his videos. So they are not needed? Anything else, other than swapping for the KYB branded rears, that I need to order?
 

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The nuts and bolts were on Acura Addict's parts list from his videos. So they are not needed?
Technically - no. However Acura recommends replacing all of the nuts and bolts in the service manual. That's what I did, and that's what I would do. For a negligible price you get new nuts and bolts, which are not stretched, damaged or rusty. There's really no reason not to get them.
 

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Yeah makes sense. By the way, the local small shop mechanic I use I guess doesnt have the equipment to deal with compressed springs or such... not sure if I understand his ask or issues totally, but are these shocks available as a complete put together kit that is an easy replacement? He said these parts look like all the individual parts shipped un assembled...
 

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are these shocks available as a complete put together kit that is an easy replacement? He said these parts look like all the individual parts shipped un assembled...
Whenever you see "Shock Absorber Assembly", those are assemblies. And the price quoted here is right, what's what I bought them for from Acura directly. These are bolt off bolt on, no compressors or additional parts required. IMO it's really not worth to replace just the front struts - you need to take both dampers off then get a car to bring them to a shop that can swap the hardware to the new struts (I really see no sense in trying to swap the springs yourself using those unreliable home compressors, it's not worth risking your health or even life for saving extra $30-50), pick them up once they are done, bring them back and reinstall them. You'll have to pay the shop, too, so in the end the difference with a full assembly would not be of any significance. Only added time for that instead of just taking them off and putting the new ones on.
 

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So to make sure I understand you... these ship "ready to go" - that is what the shop wants me to order.. they dont have the equipment to install these from bare parts... at least that is what I understand him to say. Perhaps online they just look "exploded" to show everything you get but actually come completely together ready to replace?
 

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So to make sure I understand you... these ship "ready to go"
That's right. You remove your current front assembiles from your car, open the box with new assemblies, take out the assembly from the box and put it into your car. Secure them either reusing the existing bolts and nuts (not recommended) or use new bolts and nuts (recommended).

the front left loaded assy is 51601- stx-a06 not 51602-
the front right loaded assy is 51602- stx-a06 not 51601-
No, that's incorrect. The part numbers were quoted correctly in the initial message, there was no mistake about it.

Just to clarify, here are the correct part numbers:
Damper assembly (front left): 51602-STX-A06
Damper assembly (front right): 51601-STX-A06

A simple search will confirm. Again, 602 for LEFT and 601 for RIGHT assemblies.
 

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My very first post since I don't own a MDX, but wanted to chime in with my positive results. One of my customers needed shock and strut absorbers bad too the point it was dangerous to drive. Of course dealer wanted to charge her a lung to get it changed. I don't really run into a lot of MDX around my area so the ADS was not something I have messed with before. Customer was a single mom with 2 kids and I couldn't in good conscience let her drive around like this. So I researched and found this thread. Thanks to ya'll, my customer is now driving around safe. Here's my 2 cents.

OHMITE TNP10SA1R00FE Through Hole Resistor, 1 ohm, TNP10 Series, 10 W, ± 1%, TO-126

1ohm 10watt all around. These through hole resistors are literally plug and play with maximum contact. I just taped up the ends. No more light, has been a few days since I completed repairs with her MDX.
 

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Where did you buy these from?
My very first post since I don't own a MDX, but wanted to chime in with my positive results. One of my customers needed shock and strut absorbers bad too the point it was dangerous to drive. Of course dealer wanted to charge her a lung to get it changed. I don't really run into a lot of MDX around my area so the ADS was not something I have messed with before. Customer was a single mom with 2 kids and I couldn't in good conscience let her drive around like this. So I researched and found this thread. Thanks to ya'll, my customer is now driving around safe. Here's my 2 cents.

OHMITE TNP10SA1R00FE Through Hole Resistor, 1 ohm, TNP10 Series, 10 W, ± 1%, TO-126

1ohm 10watt all around. These through hole resistors are literally plug and play with maximum contact. I just taped up the ends. No more light, has been a few days since I completed repairs with her MDX.
 

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So, you have set your button to Comfort, disconnected the battery, swapped your shocks, installed the resistors, and reconnected the battery. Now everything is fine and you have no dashboard warnings.
Do not press the button!
If you press the button the warnings will be displayed, because the computer doesn't see the values that it expects to see.
 

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I have not done this swap as my ADS are still functioning properly but preemptively follow this thread just in case. I’m assuming the Comfort button has a standard plug to it. Can it simply be unplugged after all the modifications take place to avoid an accidental pushing?
My wife sets her purse down on that spot while getting in to drive and occasionally pushes the switch.
 
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