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Haven't looked at it yet other than a glance, but I just ordered the leather only off eBay for $20. I'm gonna try to replace it, and put a thin layer of foam in at the same time, because it is hard on the elbows.

I'll document it, but it may not be for 2 weekends.

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Discussion Starter #3
dont know if i can wait that long, then again i might have to. would be interesting to see it documented.
 

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Sorry no write up but I replaced my cover with one of the faux leather ones from ebay. 0nly $19 so it was worth the experiment. Fit and finish was fine but I had several problems I had to deal with. First was I have a saddle interior and could only find a beige cover. It does look different but I can live with it and its way, way better than the torn up original. Second was I found my lid was cracked when I took it apart. Apparently the previous owner's kids had used the lid as a step crawling back and forth and had split the plastic in the middle. I didn't notice it until I had disassembled the console. I just put some HVAC metal tape on both sides of the lid and it's not an issue now. Lastly, the plastic for the lid is very thin and the cover is held on with staples. I found staples with 3/16" legs but they were still too long and poked out the sides. I had to take the cover to an upholstery shop and I paid them $25 to shoot some really short staples.

I scrapped off the old broken down foam and put in 1/2" seat foam so it's now nice and comfy. All in all it's a 100% improvement over the original and even with the above issues I'd recommend doing it.

The arm rest comes off easily with just a few screws but some of those screws are under the rear HVAC console so that has to pop off first.
 

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When I did this on my Pathfinder, I used double sided leather basting tape to hold the leather tight temporarily against the hard plastic form. Then I screwed in the hard plastic under liner that nests inside the form, which permanently holds the leather.

Is there a chance that would work instead of using tiny staples?

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When I did this on my Pathfinder, I used double sided leather basting tape to hold the leather tight temporarily against the hard plastic form. Then I screwed in the hard plastic under liner that nests inside the form, which permanently holds the leather.

Is there a chance that would work instead of using tiny staples?

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It's very possible that would work but I don't think (it was a while ago and I don't have the MDX nearby) the inner plastic cover was intended to fix the upholstery in place. The old cover was held in with both glue and staples so I figured I'd re-do what the factory did. Second, the 1/2" foam I used really put a strain on the cover/lid connection. I really had to put some grunt into it for the cover to wrap all the way around so I was - and am - concerned that it might not hold up over time. I hate going back to do jobs that I thought were "good enough" and then failed so I'm a fan of overkill the first time.
 

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It's kind of funny that this is the one interior item that is bad on the majority of 1G MDXs for some reason. Mine was fine though, but I never really liked the way it felt to my elbow on my long (!) road trips (7-8,000 miles) and just found a padded slip-on cover. Didn't match perfectly, but it was really not noticeable, IMHO (my interior was black, so it was easy to get something close). The end result was a much happier elbow, for around $20 (IIRC).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
mine has the front corners chewed off, mother-in-laws dogs. looking at it again i think i seperate the lid from the inner cup holder, unless its glued together.
 

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So I started on this finally. You need to remove the 2 screws attaching the latch. After that you just pry the 2 sides at the back edge and work forward and it pops off.

Then you remove all the staples which are upholstery style BeA 71 size with 1/8 inch legs. You'll be surprised how well plastic holds staples. A sharp point needle nose plier works best.

My leather pulled right off. But it had an adhesive backed foam that had completely deteriorated into a sticky mess. I had to spray goo be gone on it twice, let it sit for 30 minutes, then go to town with a putty knife.

Unfortunately it won't be as easy to replace cleanly as my Pathfinder with leather basting tape. I'm debating taking it to a upholstery shop or buying the correct air stapler and staples on Amazon for $50.



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I had a similar situation recently (replacing the leather shift gate cover on my Audi). I actually tried one staple (larger than the original) but it cracked the thinner plastic "ring". I ended up just spraying the leather and the plastic with the same spray adhesive I used for my headliner. Worked like a champ, and should be fine for this application, too. Just make sure and use plenty of it, and let it set up for 5-10 minutes before touching the two surfaces together (oh, and make sure you get it straight the first time!). ;-)
 

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I think adhesive would work well if you are only attaching the leather to the plastic, and depending on the adhesive if you ever need to replace the leather again it might be tedious to remove and clean.

My foam had deteriorated so bad I didn't think any was there. It was hard on my elbow, and I didn't want a generic padded cover. So I'm reattaching mine with 2 layers of 1/8 inch expanded polyethylene packing foam. I think adhesive would be unlikely to work well in this situation, especially because the underside of the shell isn't flat to give the folded over leather edge good surface to attach to.

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I agree that the foam that Honda chose for that lid is really (!) not up to the task. I remember when I was looking for MDXs, it seemed like all of them had lumpy foam under that lid.

FWIW, that adhesive is VERY sticky, and does "build up" when you apply it liberally (properly). I suppose if you are over-padding it and reusing the original material, you might not have a lot of overlap to build strength. In that case, I'd suggest looking at a fabric store for some compatible (and better!) material to cover the lid with, which will allow plenty of length to properly glue. You'd only need a few buck's worth, and could get a material that's more comfortable than the Honda-supplied vinyl, like leather.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
hmmm, nothing holds down the back. just pops out after removing two screws, there are two more post for screws at the the other end of the lid, no screws were in them ?
 

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Yep no screws in those posts on mine to the aft. I can take a pic of the hinging piece tomorrow.

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I finally completed this

I used
1/8" sheet polyethylene foam
Elmers spray adhesive
Upholstery pneumatic stapler
5/32" leg 3/8" crown BeA 71 staples
Leather
Needle nose pliers
Small side cut pliers to fix the terrible leather cut (these are absolutely essential and work great)
Goo be gone for the previously posted removal process
Screw driver

I got the foam out of some shipment packing, and did a rough cut of 1 layer on top, and 1 layer wrapping around. Then I used spray adhesive on each layer as I attached it and trimmed the edges. I did not put any spray adhesive on the top before the leather, thank god!

Then I put the leather on and the real 3 hours worth of "fun" began. I started stapling from the back, and as I was pulling the front tight I discovered the cut was awful. All of the side leather tabs were folding over into the way of the plastic snap indentions.

So I removed all the staples and started working from the sides, cutting the leather tabs narrower as necessary to get the sides to line up. Then I stapled the back down. As I was trying to complete the front I saw the top and sides had lots of sag.

Next I pulled up the back staples and cut between the tabs much deeper so the leather could pull tighter. Top was better, didn't help sides. I decided to complete the front and then go back to the sides. The front went down ok aside from cutting large triangles of leather out of the front corners to eliminate the excessive bulk as I folded them over and attached.

Finally I had to remove all of the side staples and again cut between the leather tabs much deeper so it could pull tighter, and restaple. Finally the sides looked good, and there was just a hit of a crease in the top. Was happy enough. Reinstallation was easy snap down starting from the back, and 2 screws reattaching the latch.

I thought black would look good with the black dash. It looks ok, but if I did it over again I'd probably go with grey instead.

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