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mDeeX2003, without the engine running and/or the compressor clutch engaged, you'll get some pretty meaningless pressure readings. I'm not really sure what the "static" pressures are in a working system, but the low pressure side should go down, and the high pressure side will go up once the compressor is running (my recollection from working on other vehicles - assume the MDX is the same in this regard).

I can't imagine that you'll end up with too much pressure by jumping the relay, unless you've added some gas to the system for some reason. An alternative option is to just monitor the voltage at the A/C compressor clutch contacts while you try to spin up the compressor - that way, if you DO have 12 volts there, you know the clutch is bad... if you don't have 12 volts there, you need to trace it backward to find out why not. The link in the post above by forbin404 has some more info on tracing the circuit.
 

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For simplicity, think of "intake" as the temperature in the footwell of your passenger compartment, and the "delivery" as the temperature at the vent.

Yes, if your system has pressure, chances are good it's not leaking (at least not much, and not quickly).

I would not assume there's anything wrong with the compressor - at least not yet. There are a host of other things that can keep it from engaging. And very quick, simple tests will tell you definitively whether your compressor is good or not (detailed in the posts already written, so I won't repeat them here). As with any troubleshooting process, don't start assuming anything, but figure out what you can determine for certain, and then work backward or forward from that point, until you find something that's not right.

The good news is, it's going to start cooling off soon, so you might be able to delay finding the problem for many months! ;-)
 
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