i live in the northeast. and would like to add rush inhibiters to my MDX's undercarriage; mainly on the nuts and bolts since when those simple things wear out. it makes a simple job a pain in the a$$.depends on where you live. For me, 3m clear bras front and back and all-weather floor mats throughout are musts.
I also did the underbody spray that the dealer sells for $600. It is a full underbody coating of some sort of rust-inhibitor/sealant/tar-like-stuff. Opinions on its effectiveness varies, but I got it for free.
I know people who baby their cars are totally against auto carwash, but I'm lazy and I prefer auto washes over layers of heavy salt and mud left on the car.
Also, invest in a good full detailing job complete with claybar, polish, wax...etc etc, the full package. It takes out minor imperfections in the paint that traps dirt/salt and protects the paint. Helps keep the car cleaner and makes subsequent washes easier. It's a few hundred bucks, or about half a day if you do it yourself.
Totally agree, 2 bucket handwash is the best and only thing people should do!as for auto car wash. nope. cant do it. those brushes (at least ones that offer them) would likely do a number on your car's finish. if you dont like micro scratches to your paint's finish. stay away. plus, youve seen some cars where the hood or roof or trunk show faded paint finishes; some even bare down to the substrate. it think they might have made their auto car washes a daily or weekly visit. those commercial brushes/scrubbers would do a number on your car's pain job.
About once every 2 weeks over the 8-month winter, the roads here are covered in gravel, sand, salt, ice, mud, and all kinds of good stuff. It's like driving the car through a sandblaster! Then comes summer with hail storms that shoots ice pellets of all sizes on the hood.plus, youve seen some cars where the hood or roof or trunk show faded paint finishes; some even bare down to the substrate.
Would you mind sharing the steps? I also have a black exterior and it's so difficult to avoid either water spots or swirls by drying.Two buckets.
Two mitts - one for the paint, one for the wheels and lower trim.
Meg's Gold Class shampoo
Meg's Water magnet drying towels
Meg's Ultimate Paste and Quick Waxes
I got rid of clay a few years ago in favor of AutoScrub Nanoskin sponges and they are fantastic. Eash to use and clean.
I'm a fan of the Meguiars line due to their ability to apply in direct sunlight and their ease of removal. It can be applied over trim too. There are better products out there, but these work well for a daily driver.
The wife's CBP shows the results nicely. Pic attached.
I wash one or two panels at time if the heat/sun allow for it. I.E. the hood and the roof.Would you mind sharing the steps? I also have a black exterior and it's so difficult to avoid either water spots or swirls by drying.
thank you for the reply. I was surprised to know these tires are so delicate. I have driven TSX and no such tire issues ..Man that sucks. You around 4" of rubber (assuming 20" wheel option) between the wheel and the road, so extra precaution should be taken. Won't take too much to roll the bead back from the wheel especially with as pliable as the sidewalls are on these P-rated tires.