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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, am wanting to upgrade the stereo in my wife's 2016 mdx tech package model. Am planning on putting in front and rear components, probably orion along with an orion 4 channel amp and rockford 1 channel amp. Am doing some research and have found where the factory amp is located. But haven't found a T harness I could potentially use to intercept the wires coming out of the factory amp to route to a lc7i line out converter and then over to the 2 amps I want to put in for the speakers and subwoofer. Is there a plug and play harness out available for the 'premium' system? If so what is the model number. If there is no harness does anyone have a pin out of the ELS premium amp harness, specifically illustrating what wires go to what speaker?

Also have seen others have ran the power wire through a firewall grommet. Given I will be running 0 gauge wire through the fire wire to a distribution block in my setup to go to the 2 amps doubt 0 gauge would fit. Has anyone drilled a hole through the firewall to run 0 gauge wire and if so where did you drill?

Thanks guys, this info will be helping others as I will be making a youtube documenting the install for others to learn from.
 

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Long before you even think about changing the amps you should upgrade the speakers. The car does not lack for stereo power - it suffers from cheap, low-rated speakers. Once that job is done you can judge if the amps are adequate, which you will find to be the case unless you want the ground-pounding, ear-destroying, over-emphasized sub-bass. For that I would install a separate sub-bass speaker with amp for the front.

FYI the door speakers, which provide the bass and most mid-range outputs, are rated 15W or 20W. Decent replacements will be 10 times that. The change is significant. The sub in the back is driven from the rear outputs through a sub amp; if you fade the rear you also fade the sub. That is why I would add a sub on the front outputs.

There are a couple of threads that documented the speaker upgrades, so look for them. The doors, A-pillar tweeters, and the mid-dash speakers are all very easy to change. The sub is little more work to access, and will require cutting away some plastic inside the enclosure to fit a new sub. Worth it.

The speaker part numbers in the old thread may no longer be available as the manufacturers keep changing them to make it look like there are great advances happening in speakers (hint: there aren't). The key point is to use 2-3 Ohm speakers; IIRC the originals are 2 Ohm, and 4 Ohm are the most common. Also, buy the adapters that are sold to make the job easier, and note that the dash speaker (3-1/2") has a different mount.
 

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Here are the threads I believe PDXsailor is referring to.
I used these threads to upgrade the speakers on my Base model*. Very useful information there but be sure to read the whole thing! You can learn so much

*I have not done the whole upgrade because I allocated my fun-funds to my headlight upgrade project. I only did the front component speakers and the front tweeters. Saving for the rear and center speakers now. Will not do the subwoofer because I am happy with its performance.
 

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What could you possibly do to upgrade the headlights? I have documented replacing the incandescent bulbs with LEDs, but never heard of a headlight upgrade.
 

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What could you possibly do to upgrade the headlights? I have documented replacing the incandescent bulbs with LEDs, but never heard of a headlight upgrade.
I have done headlight retrofits on some of my previous vehicles. I guess I consider myself a big lighting nerd. Don't confuse me with some truck guy that throws 8000K purple HID bulbs in their jacked-up F250 and blinds half the road. I actually like to make meaningful improvement in light output without compromising the integrity of the car's OEM look and without doing anything illegal in the eyes of the DOT, and most importantly, without blinding the other people on the road. And you can really only do that with a projector, where the light output is directionally controlled. The whole point is to make nighttime travels safer, and blinding the cars coming toward me on a 2 lane road is the opposite of that. Anyway...

The MDX headlights are great on their own on the highway but I wanted more light spread to the sides (we know that the jewel eyes don't exactly excel on dark twisty mountain roads). I did not want to mess with the jewel eyes at all so I installed a secondary set of LED projector headlights where the foglights go.

I purchased the OEM front valence with the foglight cutout (71102-TZ5-A30) and replaced the standard ones without the hole. I 3D printed headlight housings for the LED projectors from ABS plastic and covered the front with a 3/16" thick UV/impact/scratch-resistant polycarbonate plate for the light to shine through. The projectors mount inside the printed housing, with the power wire feeding through the back with a rubber grommet. I sealed the polycarb with JB Weld plastic adhesive and with silicone sealant so water intrusion should not be an issue. Then the whole printed assembly mounts to the 3 mounts for the OEM foglight.

The LED projectors I bought from TheRetrofitSource are Bi-LED so they perform as low beam and high beam. They have a fairly wide output too, more similar to an HID than an LED. For the record, these particular units are DOT approved for foglight use. (TRS sells other projectors that are DOT approved for use in headlights including projectors from Lexus RX350, Acura TL, MDX Jewel Eyes, Nissan Murano LEDs, and several more).
I have these on their own separate switch so they are only on when I need them to be.
When they are turned on, I wanted these to function with the high beam so I installed the OEM turn signal stalk with the foglight switch on it, and installed the factory relay in the proper place in the engine fuse box. Knowing that the OEM foglights turn off when the high beams turn on, I wired up an additional relay to power the high beam circuit of the new LEDs off of an automotive relay attached to the 87a plug (normally open). So when factory foglight switch is "on" the projector high beam is off, and when the factory foglight circuit is turned off when the OEM high beams are activated, the projector high beams turn on.
So in summary:
  • New LED "foglights" are aimed outward about 15° to assist in widening the light spread of the Acura low beam when I am driving on curvy roads where side illumination is needed.
  • Low beam of new projectors has a sharp cutoff similar to the jewel eye cutoff. They are aimed downward about 3° so the jewel eyes will dazzle before these new ones do, posing no risk of dazzle to oncoming traffic.
  • When the new projectors are switched on, the projector high beam will activate with the factory high beam to illuminate the sides of the road (the factory high beam is akin to a spotlight: great for straight roads, but useless in the mountains where deer can be just around the bend)
I will start a new thread soon about the details of this project and include some photos, but I am not done quite yet. There is a small gap between the bumper foglight valence and the new projector housing, so I am still 3D printing a shroud to fill between the two (it's an awkward shape)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the information guys based on it have found how to remove the door panels and front tweeters. Am not going to replace the center speaker as it doesn't add a lot. On the fence about replacing the rear tweeters in my tech on the ceiling, replaced the tweeters in my 2019 touring accord, not sure how much it added. Probably going to see if I can fit an amp rack on the floor between the 3rd row and second with some fans for the amps.

Am not going to upgrade the factory sub, will add aftermarket.

Am going to be running aftermarket amplifiers and need to fish 0 gauge wire into the cabin. Any suggested firewall drill points, don't want to hack up a stock grommet and likely will not support fishing a thick 0 gauge wire through anyway.

Have a few outstanding questions...

Where is the wiring schematic for the amp, would like to be able to tap those front speakers full range to send to the lc7i I ordered to feed the audio signal to the amp?
Sounds like I can get a ground from the front kick panel, any in the rear others are using?
Where can I get switched ACC power wire for remote?
Is the ANC behind the glove box, will need to?
Any tutorials on remove the upper rear tweeters in my tech?

Thanks guys, here is are a couple pics of my stereo I just got done putting in my honda accord, currently working on putting a stereo in the old chevy at the moment.
 

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Out of pure curiosity, what type of music/sources do you typically listen to while driving(?)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Out of pure curiosity, what type of music/sources do you typically listen to while driving(?)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lot of genres, rock, indie alternative, electronic, trance and my wife who's car this belongs to likes country and metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I pulled the panel to the amp and unplugged the anc today. Still could use help on wiring pin out. There are 3 plugs that go into the stock amp. Assume one comes from the stock radio to provide sound that has the accessory and ground. The other big harness likely branches out to all speaker wires. Any chance someone has the pinout of both of those plugs.

I just need to know the front left and right speakers. I have a harness from my accord that plugs into the harness from the deck if I can find out if I can get left and right full sound signals I'm almost set.

Also found which grommet will tap for the amp power wires. Lastly need to know where there is a ground in the rear and I'm close to hitting the ground running.

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