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Hi. My oil life indicator seems to be going through its cycle rapidly. I wonder if I need to actually pay attention to it? I last changed the oil around 5 months and 4,500 miles ago. The life is at 30%. That means at around 5,500 miles it'll be at 15%. Do I need to change it then? I actually remember the indicator going from 100% to 90% only 250 miles after the oil change. Right now there's mobil 1 synthetic extended life in it, and i plan on continuing to use that.

I'd say 75% of the miles are in stop and go suburban/city driving, the rest on the highway.
 

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Stop and go summer driving is going to shorten the service interval, but you're still getting reasonable time and mileage between changes. Not sure why your instinct is to ignore the OLI, I guess this is why I have such a hard time buying used! ;-)
 
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City - stop and go driving is harder on oil.. the OLM is programmed to recognize this and take all your driving data into account.
at 75 % city driving .. yes.. your OLM will drop faster when compared to a mostly Hwy driving.
Since you are using a good oil like M1, you are protecting your engine under harsh conditions.
Oil is relatively cheap maintenance [ even synthetics ]... i would recommend to drop the oil when the OLM sais so...
My DX gets a Penz Plat OCI spring and fall... regardless what the OLM sais... I am at 40% remaining on average when I drop the oil.
 

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It's not that big of a deal to just change the oil when the indicator says to. The cost is negligible compared to what you paid for the vehicle and if you change the oil yourself it's even less expensive - like pocket change.

As others have said, stop/go, especially where the engine doesn't come fully up to temps for a while, is harder on oil life. The indicator is basically telling you the truth about when to change the oil and it's best not to ignore the truth.

I use Mobile 1 full syn also and I make sure I don't get caught up in second guessing by thinking that oil is so great it can really go longer. In fact, I have no doubt it could go longer, likely much longer, but that's not the point - the point is to meet the manufacturer's recommendation and to not push it regardless.

Just a data point - I actually hit 0% left once on a long coast to coast trip (almost made it back by 0%) and that hit at almost exactly 10K miles. Previous changes would have ended up close to 9K-10K at 0% as but I generally change sooner than 0% and only hit that due to being on the road at the time. Those were not majority stop/go miles.

Note - go ahead and rotate your tires at the same time you do the oil change.
 

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City - stop and go driving is harder on oil.. the OLM is programmed to recognize this and take all your driving data into account.
at 75 % city driving .. yes.. your OLM will drop faster when compared to a mostly Hwy driving.
Since you are using a good oil like M1, you are protecting your engine under harsh conditions.
Oil is relatively cheap maintenance [ even synthetics ]... i would recommend to drop the oil when the OLM sais so...
My DX gets a Penz Plat OCI spring and fall... regardless what the OLM sais... I am at 40% remaining on average when I drop the oil.
It's your money but,you are probably wasting some of it.
 

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Do second guess the MID as you have to remember that is tuned for the OEM OIL!!!! If you use higher quality Aftermarket oil the MID won't adapt to it. Use Blackstone Labs analysis to confirm oil wear.

My MDX is asking me as per the MID to change the oil every 4-5K and I am using Mobil 1 EP.. As per the analysis my oil change has been good using it for 10-12K which is my normal year round mileage so the MID reminder is being completely wrong when using anything other than OEM OIL.
 
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Well it is fine for people using OEM Oil or Regular Syns..
For us trying to push year round oil changes with oil that is supposed to do that the MID fails hard and a lot of people do not know that the MID "OLI" only considers OEM OIL for its parameters.

Just to prove my point..
I started using Mobil 1 EP back in 2009 when it released in my TL-S (It had around 130K back then).
My TL-S does 1 year round changes since 2009 and when I did my Valve Adjustment at 190K well..
Judge for yourselves, This is 1 year round or 15K changes engine condition using Mobil 1 EP 5W-30:

Front Bank:


Rear Bank (This stain is common in all J-Series as the Rear Bank gets hotter than the front):


Close up:


As you can clearly see there is not even the slightest hint of sludge and my engine has never got a "Flush" Additive on it, This is all Mobil 1 EP detergent packages by itself.. My Engine is fully modded I race with it and sees tons of Redlines all the time, It currently has 252whp at +300HP in the Crank and currently sits a 225K.
 
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It's your money but,you are probably wasting some of it.
LOL..I TOTALLY agree with you..!! XD

However.. this old guy has NO interest to do a OCI in the middle of frikkin February when the OLM goes to -0-
and its -20 in my garage and everything around me is frozen solid for the next 6 weeks or so..
so I drop the oil early... and jimmy-crack-corn.. my DX will be good shape to get me to spring time... ;)

The money i save doing my own oil changes outweighs going to the dealer / jiffylube, etc by a country mile....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, what can I do. I do not want to spend 20-30 bucks for oil analysis and go thru hassle before each oil change. I don't mind changing oil per the oli but don't want to be wasteful either. Should I meet in middle and take it 2k miles after it reaches 0 pct? Or just use oem oil and follow oli

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

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It's your money but,you are probably wasting some of it.
Well, what can I do. I do not want to spend 20-30 bucks for oil analysis and go thru hassle before each oil change. I don't mind changing oil per the oli but don't want to be wasteful either. Should I meet in middle and take it 2k miles after it reaches 0 pct? Or just use oem oil and follow oli

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Agreed... oil analysis great if you have a fleet of vehicle to tend to.. I mean for the cost of the sending and getting results of analysis for 1 vehicle.. just may as well and change the oil and be done with it.. that simple.. unless..... you are looking for something problematic... then yes UOA will be of great benefit..

to your second point... with a good synth, could you take it 2k past 0%... **more** than likely.....
I dont bother.. getting every mile out of an OCI it just not worth it to me... engine protection, convenience and timing.. all factor in..

Thanks
J :)
 

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Do second guess the MID ...
Maybe I'd go along with your statement if you modified it to state - "After the warranty period...do second guess the MID...". There's a good reason to not push something like this while under warranty just to save a few bucks and not much hassle on the proverbial $50K vehicle. After the warranty period it's a different story.

Should I meet in middle and take it 2k miles after it reaches 0 pct? Or just use oem oil and follow oli
You're trying to pinch pennies on maintenance for that proverbial $50K vehicles I mentioned (although mine cost less than that). It'd be foolish to not just follow the manufacturer's recommendations - especially during a warranty period.

You don't need to use 'OEM oil' - you need to use 'manufacturer's recommended oil' which would include full syn oils like Mobile One and others - this is in the owner's manual.

... and, your used oil will be recycled as long as you don't dump it down a drain so it won't be wasteful.

I don't understand why people want to ignore the recommendations of the people who design and back up with warranty the vehicle in favor of soliciting advice from random people on the internet whose credentials and context (such as perhaps referring to a vehicle not under a warranty) they have no idea of - just to save next to nothing at the potential risk of a denied warranty claim on an expensive component such as an engine.
 

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If I understand correctly the oil life indicator is tied into the other Maintenance Minder functions. So even if you are willing to skip an oil change due to high quality oil (questionable corner cutting) it is probably a good idea to reset the minder as if the oil change happened so that other maintenance intervals are maintained. Also, if there were an engine problem and you hadn't reset the oil life then it might be a difficult argument for the warranty coverage.

The recommended maintenance is to change the oil filter every other oil change (A=oil change, B=oil+filter change, inspections). Is that what you do, or change the filter with every oil change??

Greg
 

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There is no issue regarding engine warranty or engine lifespan reduction as you are LAB TESTING the amount of time you are leaving your engine with the oil change.. You can start at 10K, Send a sample and Blackstone Labs will tell you if its safe to keep using it more OR if your specific engine is not comfortable with that change they will tell you to change it before. You wont damage your engine by a single time you keep the engine oil unless you are jumping to 20K intervals at the first go... 10K is perfectly safe for any Self Respected FULL SYN OIL.

The main thing to understand here is: You are not guessing IF the engine oil can last that long this is a scientific method to ensure proper engine oil wear and life span available to all of us for a mere 40 bucks test. You dont need to believe a hearsay or anecdotal evidence, JUST TEST YOUR OIL!

As for my oil filter, I change it also on a Year Basis but only use K&N HP Series or Mobil 1 EP Filters.
Blackstone test showed my Engine Oil could easily hit 15K intervals, Since I do 10-12K a Year I am not even near the Analysis threshold for my oil life span and as you can see by the pictures my engine is in top notch condition after years of 15K/1y Intervals.
 

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From a personal experience with my 06 Ridgeline, I follow my MDX's MID service recommendations.

Three months out of warranty I lost compression on #3 cylinder. The shop that did my oil changes and maintenance gave me a printout of service performed. I went to the Honda dealership and they replaced the motor under warranty at a cost of about $500 to me. Had I not changed the oil at the Ridgeline's MID, I am sure they would not have replaced the motor under warranty.
 

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Stop and go summer driving is going to shorten the service interval, but you're still getting reasonable time and mileage between changes. Not sure why your instinct is to ignore the OLI, I guess this is why I have such a hard time buying used! ;-)
Proper books/records are the key to buying used...not a guarantee, but at least history of upkeep is there.
 

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I would stick with the M.I.D. service intervals at a minimum while the vehicle is still under the 4/50k basic and 6/70k powertrain warranties. I have +375,000 miles between my three Acura and planning to hit 500,000 miles before thinking about trading in any vehicle.

I still do extra services within the M.I.D. intervals such as:
- replace cabin filter every spring
- clean re-oil K/N drop-in filter every spring
- rotate or cross-rotate tires every oil change (lifetime with Discount Tires)
- balance tires every oil change (lifetime with Discount Tires)
- check alignment 2X per year (put +20,000 miles per year, lifetime with Firestone, double-check of any suspension issues)
- power steering fluid replacement at 100,000 miles
- spark plug change at 75,000 miles
- AT, transfer case, and sh-awd every 30,000 miles

Oil changes is not the only maint item the M.I.D. is keeping track in the system. The "maint due" service items 1-6 only show during an "A" or "B" service is 15% or less. I don't know fo-sure; but, I think the M.I.D. is also tracking a 1-6 maint service against your driving conditions and you might be overdue for this sub item if you take the MDX to the full oil service life of 8K-10K. I've never seen an "A" or "B" service without a 1-6 being attached to it. Changing your oil early is not going to hurt the MDX compared to the potential of going over on another sub-maint item by 3K to 5K. The M.I.D. might be shorting the oil life to get you in the shop sooner for a sub item maint?
 

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Is that what you do, or change the filter with every oil change?
I change the filter every time I change the oil. The Honda filter only costs $7 or so IIRC and it's easy enough to change and it's what filters contaminants from the oil (no matter how great the oil is it'll still get contaminants).

I think any potential warranty issues are much easier to handle by being able to simply show Acura the recommended intervals were followed rather than trying to prove their engineers' recommendations are wrong and the oil analysis (if one's really willing to pay for that each time) basis should supersede Acura's recommendations. Manufacturer recommendations aren't trying to go to the extreme end of life point on something like oil - but some reasonable lifetime with a likely significant safety margin in their favor as far as protecting the engine and avoiding warranty claims.

Once one's past the warranty period then it makes more sense for someone to do simply what they want based on whatever methodology or beliefs they may have - it's all the same cost to them one way or the other post-warranty. Like I've said before - most likely one could go 100K miles on the same oil (with topping up as needed), but it's not worth taking the financial/hassle risk to see if it can handle it that long.

But people can do what they want - the worst case is there may be an engine problem someday and Acura might deny a warranty claim and the owner will need to deal with the cost and hassle of the issue. In addition, the issue might have been caused directly by trying to stretch the oil change too long in which case they're just being foolish to save a few bucks - nothing significant relative to the cost of this vehicle.
 

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I am curios how any of you that DIY you engine oil show proper MID interval changes as Acura has no way to know you are doing it exactly when the MID says you to but still has to honor the warranty or face a lawsuit.

Also BTW you only need to lab test once every threshold.. Once at 10K then once at 15K if the 15K is gold means you can go beyond that. There is absolutely no need to test every oil change unless you suspect the heads are warped and there is A/F contamination.
 
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