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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all.

I'm currently @ 88K miles on my 2015 SH-AWD and will likely approach the 110K mark in 7-9 months and so I really want to understand what 'major fixes' my car will need at the 110K milestone (so I can better prepare for it from now.) - This is the first car I've owned that will reach that milestone so I'm unaware of what is involved except for the fact that it is considered a major milestone for cars and usually require replacing some expensive parts!

I understand the timing belt and water pump should be replaced around that time ... and so I'm curious if I can order the parts from Acura and have a private shop do the work? Or is this something 'too complicated' for most private mechanics? My mechanic has replaced my radiator, water pipes, front struts but I don't know how that compares to the timing belt and water pump replacement.

And aside from the above, what else should I keep in mind for my 'to do list' for the 110K milestone?

And on a side note: I'm a major victim of the 'judder from torque converter lock up clutch' dilemma (TSB B16-062/63) - going way back before those TSBs were released and in the meanwhile had my TC replaced twice (which is the misdiagnoses, apparently.) Anyhow, even though ACR assured me they will stand behind their product (and their word) even after my warranties run out; they left me high-and-dry when the judder problem resurfaced recently at around 85K miles (TSB B16-062/63 were performed @ 69K miles and approved by ACR at the time). Anyhow, I decided to order ATF DW1 from Curry Acura and took it to my private mechanic shop who performed the triple drain/refill as per the TSB specs and so far it seems to have worked, but I do need to take it for a highway drive. All in all, around $200 out of pocket. This wouldn't have been possible if I hadn't come across this forum and run into you all. I was the type of person who barely knew how to change the windwasher fluid, but because of you all - I have come a long, long way from constantly being screwed by the dealership service departments.

Thanks as always for your helpful feedback and suggestions. It's much appreciated.
 

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Hmm lemme think...
-Timing belt
-Water pump
-Spark plugs
-Valve adjustment

I recommend:
-Brake fluid (usually I do this every 3 years/36k/whenever my brakes run out around this time frame)
-Coolant (but it seems like you did this anyway when was radiator replaced, and did it fail?)
-ATF (you already did anyway, but with DW-1 I'm tempted to recommend ATF changes every 45k now due to THAT problem)
-Transfer case (depends on when you did it last, usually i do this with the rear diff @ 30k intervals because it's just another gear oil, but the maint minder seems to like 60k intervals tied with the ATF)
-Rear diff (depends on when you did it last, but every 30k so you should be about there)
-Engine oil (depends on when you did it last)
-Engine air filter (depends on when you did it last)
-Cabin air filter (depends on when you did it last)
-Rotate tires (depends on when you did it last)

Hmm am I forgetting anything?

I will say... this is cake compared to my Subaru. Damn H engines and their head gaskets that usually go out in time with the timing belt. $1k job becomes $3k (well, mostly because I replaced EVERY seal at that point since the heads were off).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks @neoshi

I have put my car on an 'aggressive schedule' for fluids due to constant issues with the car. I'm doing RDF, ATF (which will now be a triple drain-and-refill) @ 15K intervals; Transfer case and Brake fluid is still @ 30K intervals. I replace engine oil with Mobil 1 0W-20 every 3.5K miles. Cabin / engine air filters get changed every 10-15K miles. As far as the old radiator goes, the mechanic agreed that it was bad and was not repairable so we did end up replacing it and did the coolant drain/refill at the same time.

Would you say a competent mechanic can handle the timing belt / water pump or is it in a different category vs a radiator and stuff?

Thanks again.
 

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Damn that's really aggressive! Yeah most good mechanics can do them just fine, but you can always ask them about their experience doing them. Usually if they're short about the answer, it is a bit of a warning sign. But it's a rather normal job in a Honda product because they're on the road so long and in large numbers. A dedicated Honda shop would probably be even more familiar with this work though.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

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The timing belt/water pump is something a competent mechanic s/b able to do and would typically do frequently since so many vehicles require prophylactic replacement of them - i.e. replacement even though they didn't fail. The actual thing needing that pro-active replacement is the timing belt, not the water pump, but since the water pump needs to be removed to get to the timing belt it makes sense to replace it at the same time whether it needs it or not. And since the accessory/drive belts have to come off to get to the timing belt then those may as well get replaced at the same time since it's no additional labor charge to do so. The coolant will obviously need to be drained/refilled during the above process so it'll be refreshed with new coolant at that time as well. In a nutshell, the timing belt replacement has a domino effect of getting some other things replaced at the same time since the timing belt is buried in there and the other parts have to come off regardless.

You're changing some of your fluids way more frequently than necessary. There's no reason nowadays to change the engine oil every 3500 miles. Just change it when the MID/owner's manual tells you to. Ditto the other fluids. You shouldn't need to second guess them - just go with what the manufacturer recommends.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi @neoshi @mdxstang and others...

Can you guys be kind enough to help me locate the right part numbers for the spark plugs, timing belt, water pump, accessory / drive belts?

I have a 2015 MDX SH-AWD TECH

I will admit: I'm not mechanically-inclined and don't want to order the wrong parts. I don't want to look like I don't want to do the work myself ... I just don't know.

Lastly, does anyone know how many bottles of the DOT-3 brake fluid do I need to order? I see each bottle is 12oz.

Likewise, same question for the power steering fluid.

Thanks all...really don't mean to take advantage of y'all generosity...but I could really use the help!

PS mdxstang: My judder issue is already back after barely 10K miles since the last triple flush. Nothing else I can do than to do another triple flush. :(
 

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Let me see...

Spark plugs: NGK DILZKR7B11G (you don't have to get these at the dealer via the Acura PN, it tends to cost more this way) https://www.amazon.com/NGK-DILZKR7B11G-Iridium-Spark-95350/dp/B01GQZ0PMA
Timing belt: 14400-R9P-A01 (and maybe tensioner too? 14520-RCA-A01)
Accessory belt: 31110-5G0-A01
Water pump: 19200-RDV-J01 (may want to also buy the gaskets while you're at it 19222-P8A-A01. Hoses and stuff are also a good idea)
Power steering is electric, no fluid needed! Gone are the days of ATF in your PS bottle.
Brake fluid: So I usually get just 2 12oz bottles to do the flush, but I've seen people report needing like a quart and a half (which is 4 12oz bottles). Usually quite sufficient for me. I used to get 1L bottles of ATE and boy did I waste a whole bunch of that... As long as you don't open it though, it should be OK. I guess it really depends on your technique too, so if you have a shop do it, just ask them. If yourself, buy a little extra just in case.

If you're going to do the ATF yourself, might as well get the DW1 too then. Are you in in socal? I have two bottles from my old Honda that I don't need anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks a ton @neoshi ! I really, really appreciate this help. :surprise:

Okay -- you can laugh -- how many spark plugs do I need to order ... 6? :bonk: Are spark plugs easily accessible? Meaning can I get this done any time or better to do it at the same time I do the belts and all? (if they need to remove other parts to get in there or something)

The ATF will get replaced regardless since I'm a victim of the judder issue that Acura can't / won't fix even with the TSBs - so the only option is to do a triple flush every time the judder returns (10k-15k miles, mostly city driving). And I'm in NYC - appreciate the kind offer nonetheless!

Glad to know about the power steering fluid ... shows how much I know. :D

Btw, another question for you. I need new rear struts ... they are done (96K miles) ... the mechanic confirmed it today. It seems the rear struts are identical? And so I need 2x 52611-TZ6-A11 as far as I can tell and the mechanic should be able to reuse the other parts from the current struts I believe? https://www.curryacuraparts.com/auto-parts/2015/acura/mdx-5-door/tech-sh-awd-trim/6-speed-automatic-engine/chassis-cat/rear-shock-absorber-1-scat/?part_number=52611tz6a11

Thanks again !
 

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Yeppers, 6 plugs. Yanno, the front side ones are EZPZ but the back side ones... ugh. I mean it kind of depends on how well you can reach back there I guess. Take off the engine cover and take a lookie to see if you think you can reach the coils. 16 ft lbs torque on the plugs, 9 on the coil bolts.

Indeed 2x 52611-TZ6-A11 and yes you can reuse everything else if they're in good shape. Some of the noise elimination pieces and other small pieces are good to replace since they're cheap (https://www.oemacuraparts.com/auto-parts/2015/acura/mdx-5-door/tech-sh-awd-trim/6-speed-automatic-engine/chassis-cat/rear-shock-absorber-1-scat - see parts like 3, 4, 6, 13, 14) and have already lived through almost 100k of wear but your mechanic can judge the condition of those too. Hmm 96k miles is pretty short... I usually don't experience failure that early, but then again... NYC potholes!
 

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I just did a brake system flush and I think I purchased 2 of the 12oz bottles from Acura and used somewhere around 1.5 of bottles of it. Get at least 2 bottles but if you've never done a flush before yourself get 3 bottles in case you overdo the flushing. If you end up with a bottle left over you can always use it next time so it's not a waste to buy it - plus it's well worth the low cost of an extra bottle to not run out in the middle of the job.

Replacing spark plugs in general on most vehicles is a bit of a pain with some variants of vehicles being very easy and some being almost impossible. These sideways mounted engines as we have in the MDX usually mean the front plugs are relatively easy and the back ones often a big hassle but I haven't replaced them yet on the MDX so I don't know how bad it'll turn out to be. I'm waiting until at least the maximum recommended mileage point to do the replacement of them. Plugs and ignition systems of today's vehicles are vastly improved form the old vehicles where plugs would get fouled easily and wear easily. Sometimes the biggest hassle for some plugs is getting the ignition wires off and back on without damaging the wire since after a large number of miles they can get somewhat stuck on the plug and there's often not much room for wire pliers to do it right and if you just tug on the wire itself it'll often break the wire leaving the boot still on the plug.

Be careful to not over-tighten the plugs since if you damage the threads in the head you'll be in for an immediately needed and expensive repair. I suggest you take a rough look at the accessibility of the rear plugs and if it looks very tight consider having a mechanic do it.
 

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Let me see...

Spark plugs: NGK DILZKR7B11G (you don't have to get these at the dealer via the Acura PN, it tends to cost more this way) https://www.amazon.com/NGK-DILZKR7B11G-Iridium-Spark-95350/dp/B01GQZ0PMA
Timing belt: 14400-R9P-A01 (and maybe tensioner too? 14520-RCA-A01)
Accessory belt: 31110-5G0-A01
Water pump: 19200-RDV-J01 (may want to also buy the gaskets while you're at it 19222-P8A-A01. Hoses and stuff are also a good idea)
While it'll add another $120-$150 or so to the cost, I'd recommend having the tensioner changed while the work is getting done. I'm not sure if Honda updated the part, but in the past some of them would start leaking.

Though this is an odd case, my co-worker, who logs LOTS of highway miles, changed the t-belt and water pump on his 2nd gen Pilot about a year ago with maybe around 150K on it. But he didn't change the tensioner. Just last week, he heard a rattle from the engine and found out the tensioner started to fail. I think the car has at least 190K on it now, and it may be close to pushing 200K. Maybe the tensioner in the OP's will last until the next t-belt change, but why take the chance?
 

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Maybe the tensioner in the OP's will last until the next t-belt change, but why take the chance?
Labor to do T-Belt is rather involved (and expensive if you're paying a shop) so it makes sense, in my opinion, to replace anything that could give you problems before your next expected t-belt service. The cost of parts is far outweighed by the risk of having to perform the labor, again.
 

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While it'll add another $120-$150 or so to the cost, I'd recommend having the tensioner changed while the work is getting done. I'm not sure if Honda updated the part, but in the past some of them would start leaking.

Though this is an odd case, my co-worker, who logs LOTS of highway miles, changed the t-belt and water pump on his 2nd gen Pilot about a year ago with maybe around 150K on it. But he didn't change the tensioner. Just last week, he heard a rattle from the engine and found out the tensioner started to fail. I think the car has at least 190K on it now, and it may be close to pushing 200K. Maybe the tensioner in the OP's will last until the next t-belt change, but why take the chance?
Total agreement. Should have seen my Subaru timing belt/head gasket job. Replaced every seal, tensioner, belt, pump, pulley, etc I could find! Cost me a pretty penny, but hey, peace of mind.
 

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This is the same spark plug right? https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/spark-plug.html?3593=560976

Amazon only has one seller selling it (the one you linked) and they only have 1 in-stock.

Thanks @neoshi !
Page won't load but the 95350 NGKs are correct. I haven't used that site before but their resellerratings seems OK--occasionally shipping other products or not refunding orders.. pretty normal I guess.

Amazon's page says more are coming if you want to wait.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just wanted to take a minute to once again thank @mdxstang @neoshi @Emmet @p07r0457
@mdxstang @neoshi - I really do appreciate the awesome advice and thorough answers to my many questions over the past year. You guys truly rock and I would be out thousands more $$ if it weren't for the advice and help from you all.

I will be back with more q's :D
 

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Hi @neoshi @mdxstang and others...

Can you guys be kind enough to help me locate the right part numbers for the spark plugs, timing belt, water pump, accessory / drive belts?

I have a 2015 MDX SH-AWD TECH

I will admit: I'm not mechanically-inclined and don't want to order the wrong parts. I don't want to look like I don't want to do the work myself ... I just don't know.

Lastly, does anyone know how many bottles of the DOT-3 brake fluid do I need to order? I see each bottle is 12oz.

Likewise, same question for the power steering fluid.

Thanks all...really don't mean to take advantage of y'all generosity...but I could really use the help!

PS mdxstang: My judder issue is already back after barely 10K miles since the last triple flush. Nothing else I can do than to do another triple flush. :(
What’s the judder issue you are having? Is it the RPM fluttering at 45mph or so?
 

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What’s the judder issue you are having? Is it the RPM fluttering at 45mph or so?
Yes, more or less. The RPM needle starts dancing in the 40-50mph range and car jerks / makes 'zoom zoom' sound. It goes away after a triple-flush but super inconvenient as it has to be done every 10k miles (juddar starts as quick as after 5-6k miles and slowly worsens).
 
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