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Discussion Starter #43
And so it happened again! This time there was no possibility of anything being plugged into the A/C outlet.

I did start to notice that starting was getting a bit weak, hard to explain but when it was starting the the starting rpms felt like it was sluggish.

And then when I went to start it it did the same thing. Start and then Die and throw every warning possible.

Luckily I bought a portable starter, I connected it and after two tries it started up with all the warning lights. I let it run for a minute and cut it off and started it again. I noticed the starting was strong again.

After a few cycles the warning lights went away and it starts strong.

Honestly I believe this will be my last Honda. The last two Honda vehicles have these very expensive odd ball problems show up after the warranty.

I don’t know if I want to bring it in to waste money on them not figuring out problem to guess fixing it on the off chance they can fix it or just keep doing what I am doing but jumping it.

I just taught my wife and son what to do if it happens to them when I am not there so that they are not starnded.

I may consider trading this vehicle in but it’s been in a major accident a few years ago and that devalues the car considerably even though it was professionally restored. I also have so much vested in it with snow tires and the timing belt parts (which I will be doing in a few weeks)

I just can’t have my family getting stuck because of it.
 

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Honestly I believe this will be my last Honda. The last two Honda vehicles have these very expensive odd ball problems show up after the warranty.
To be fair, so do models from most other makes. You're just focused on 'Honda' at the moment (understandably) because it's what you have and you have some issue on it but name some other manufacturer vehicle and do an internet search for some oddball problem, including what you're dealing with now, and you'll get some hits. You'll run out of any manufacturer vehicle pretty fast if you expect their entire production won't have the occasional odd issues on some subset of their vehicles.

My 2014 MDX doesn't have the issue yours has and I think neither do the vast majority of the MDXs if we can use this forum as a pulse.

Of course, that doesn't help you gain confidence in yours. There sure seems to be some issue related to the battery. It might be interesting to have a voltmeter on it that has the gauge inside the car so you can routinely read the voltage - but you may be able to do this with a dongle on the OBD2 connector and you could read the value every time you're in the car just before starting it to try to quantify it a bit.

Just a random thought - do you keep your FOB well away from the vehicle? I have a driveway cam that alerts me when the lighting changes and I get notified by it occasionally when the MDX interior lights suddenly come on - I'm sure due to stray signals from the FOB inside the house managing to get to the vehicle. This hasn't negatively affected my battery charge but if you had it occurring quite frequently it could have some impact. I'd never have noticed this without that cam alert I get.
 

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Localbar, what you described is a bad battery. I had one not even two years old that went bad. It was a Honda battery that worked sometimes and not others. The dealer tested it and it was fine. A week later it did it again and when I took it immediately in it tested bad. They replaced it and it has been fine since.

Luckily I bought a portable starter, I connected it and after two tries it started up with all the warning lights. I let it run for a minute and cut it off and started it again. I noticed the starting was strong again.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Localbar, what you described is a bad battery. I had one not even two years old that went bad. It was a Honda battery that worked sometimes and not others. The dealer tested it and it was fine. A week later it did it again and when I took it immediately in it tested bad. They replaced it and it has been fine since.
I don’t think it’s the battery or if it is then Costco batteries are absolute junk. When this first happened the battery was a year old. I decided to not chance it and returned the battery for a new one. This one is less than a year old and it tests very strong.

It’s some oddball issue that for some reason gets reset when I jump directly to the negative and positive terminals. It will not restart if I connect to positive and ground. It has to be directly connected to the terminals.
 

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It will not restart if I connect to positive and ground. It has to be directly connected to the terminals.
It should start if you connect the neg to a chassis ground (as you know). Maybe you have a battery cable or engine ground cable issue (assuming there's a cable for this).

A battery/starting/ground cable issue can mimic a battery issue, especially when it's an intermittent type of issue. Batteries themselves tend not to be so intermittent when they fail.

I've seen pics of your MDX and it appears you're in a harsh corrosive environment. Have you replaced or at least inspected your battery and starting system cables? They need to be inspected not just at the battery end but also at the starter itself and any connection point in between. Assuming there's an engine ground strap/cable, this needs to be inspected as well at both ends - the engine and the chassis. By 'inspected' I mean removing the cable end, cleaning both surfaces, ex: battery post plus cable end, cable to starter, etc., and reattached with the connection being tight (but not over-tight). As you remove the end pay attention to whether it was somewhat loose or not.

One of the cable connections could well be the cause of your issue.

These kinds of things can be difficult to find and cause weird intermittent issues - like what you've been experiencing.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Anyone else have this issue and find the cause?

I checked all the wiring and all is good there.
It’s becoming more frequent, it happened three times within 30 days. Each time the battery tests fine.

I went out and bought a battery jumper and each time it came in handy because it jumps right up.

If it were a P2101 code then why would it immediately jump?

I spoke with my local shop and he was of the mind that he has to have it with the problem happening (which means towing it) because if it’s working there’s nothing to diagnose.

I am ready to cut my losses and trade this car in. I really love how it handles and drives but having this random issue is a nuisance to have to worry about. And I am not sure I want to spend thousands on guess fixing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I figured out what the issue was.
 

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When the wife went to start the MDX today it would start fine, idle fine and then 1-2 seconds later it would just cut out and die then all the warnings would come on.

If I try to start it again while the dash is still lit it just cranks without starting.

If I turn off the car (hit the button twice) and try to start it - it starts strong but dies 1-2 seconds later.

Everything was running fine until this morning. I changed the battery last December and there doesn’t seem to be any loss of battery power as it cranks strong and nothing dims out.

Any ideas what it could be?

It has about 94k miles
Thanks.
Hi Actually had the same problem today 6/19/2020. I did all the things i could think. Check Battery voltage which was 12.32 V. I plugged jumper cables and tried to start but unsuccessful. Disconnected battery. still unsuccessful. Me and my neighbor put our heads together and since the car has computer components we thought of checking for any error codes. I went to walmart and bought an OBDII/EOBD scanner worth 21 dollars. The car popped 2 codes P2101 (Throttle actuator control motor circuit range/performance) and P0113 (Intake air temperature sensor 1 circuit high). Here is the simple answer. I deleted all the codes and the car started and i have been driving the car all day
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Hi Actually had the same problem today 6/19/2020. I did all the things i could think. Check Battery voltage which was 12.32 V. I plugged jumper cables and tried to start but unsuccessful. Disconnected battery. still unsuccessful. Me and my neighbor put our heads together and since the car has computer components we thought of checking for any error codes. I went to walmart and bought an OBDII/EOBD scanner worth 21 dollars. The car popped 2 codes P2101 (Throttle actuator control motor circuit range/performance) and P0113 (Intake air temperature sensor 1 circuit high). Here is the simple answer. I deleted all the codes and the car started and i have been driving the car all day
Take it to the dealer if it happens again. I played this game, resting codes, jumping etc and over time the problem got worse.

what I suspect happened for you which is what happened me is your throttle body is sticking and you trying to restart it eventually unstuck it and you cleared the codes and then it started. If it happens again your TB is sticking. Bring in it before your Fuel trims get jacked and needs reprogramming.

I wish you well. I almost sold the MDX wholesale but I am back to loving it. I learned a very valuable lesson. Stick to fluids and remove and replace parts. Once the TB and codes kick in bring it in

these direct injection engines foul up the TB fairly quickly.
 
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