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2014 MDX won't turn on but all electronics came on and it showed message to press brake and push button to start ignition. When I tried again the brake was really hard to push and started making weird clicking sound with all the icons starting to flash on panel. I did notice a few days ago that the little light next to the exterior mirror stayed on and I had to turn alarm off and on a few times for it to finally stay off. Not sure if it is related but hopefully someone knows what this might be. Am really bummed, I purchased this car used last summer so only have had for a little over a year. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I would check the 12V battery. I have had similar issues with other vehicles and it was the battery.

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Don't be concerned (yet anyway). It's likely a drained battery. If you have AAA or a friend with jumper cables or a jump starter battery (one of those small portable ones), have them jump start the vehicle. From your description it sounds like something may have been left on that drained the battery which would mean your battery's still good - just low on charge. If that doesn't work then have the battery tested which can be done at many auto parts stores for free or, of course, at a dealer or other mechanic. If it starts with a jump starter let it run for about 15 minutes before turning it off to allow it to charge up somewhat. Do it without the lights, radio, a/c, etc. on unless you're driving it somewhere for that time frame.

The hard pedal was most likely due to you pressing it a few times with the engine off. This will make the pedal hard because it will have purged the vacuum from the brake booster - a normal behavior for most vehicles with power brakes.

btw - I'm still on the original battery on my early 2014 (built June 2013) but I'm not in a harsh climate. Nevertheless, a factory battery 4-5 years old could be near the end of its lifetime (or not - too many variables on this).
 

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FWIW I recently replaced the 12V battery in our 2014 MDX ( purchased autumn 2013 ).

They have a limited lifespan. Harsh climates definitely take their toll. Also, deep discharges are damaging and you don't know the history of this battery. The things are only about $100, so it's definitely the place to start. I would just replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone for the advice! I will try to get a jump start and take it to get the battery replaced. Will post back if that was in fact the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, was the battery! Relieved it was nothing bigger and more expensive. I love my MDX and would hate to have issues with it.

Thanks again everyone!
 

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Batteries go bad on everything....not a big deal. Glad it was that.
 

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Sorry to interrupt but what battery would you guys recommend for my 2015 MDX? Replace it with the OEM or is there something 'better' available out there? My original battery died @ 45K and I'm now at 88K so I was thinking about being proactive and getting the battery changed. If you guys recommend to just stick with the OEM battery, does anyone know the Part # for it? Thanks!
 

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2015 MDX? Replace it with the OEM or is there something 'better' available out there? My original battery died @ 45K and I'm now at 88K so I was thinking about being proactive and getting the battery changed.
Battery lifetime is related more to time in service and various ambient conditions and isn't really related to the number of miles on the vehicle. Again, my 2014 MDX, built June 2013, still has the original battery in it.

For approximating when to proactively replace a battery, if you want to do that, take a look at how many years the first one lasted and how many years have elapsed since then. Your first one failed early and the second one might be a better battery with a more normal lifespan. I'd expect about 4-5 years on a battery, sometimes a bit less, sometimes a bit longer.

Keep in mind that many 'failed' batteries aren't actually bad but just low on charge, especially nowadays with parasitic drain on batteries. Many times people will replace the battery even though the one they have is perfectly fine.
- Anecdote - during college years I worked at an auto parts warehouse that had pallets of used batteries that were cores from when people bought new batteries. The battery on my car died and I didn't have much money so I just tested the top brand name batteries on one of the pallets that fit my battery form factor and found a top of the line one that tested good but low on charge. I charged it up and used that battery for years afterwards - a free battery for me.

As to the brand - there aren't that many vehicle battery manufacturers although the batteries produced are sold under a lot of different brand names. I just stick to bigger brand names and buy the best battery I can in terms of CCA and warranty period. I've purchased Duralast, which is the house brand of Autozone, Exide, Bosch, and others over the years. Another big brand is Interstate. The last one I bought (for a different vehicle) was Exide which I bought at Home Depot, and the one prior to that, for yet a different vehicle, was Bosch. I stay away from little known brand names.
 

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Yeah, I don't think there is much difference in conventional lead acid batteries. AFAIK, they eventually die because when they recharge the lead doesn't necessarily get redeposited on the internal electrode "plates" ( more like grids ) the same way it was before. They slowly lose capacity, and if the lead forms a "bridge" between plates, the thing shorts out a cell, and then you're shopping for a battery, maybe in a blizzard or the middle of the night or both. Deep discharges remove more lead from the plates at once, so more potential for problems.

If you insist on draining batteries, for instance with powerful audio systems, it might be worth considering an Absorbent Glass Mat ( AGM ) battery. These are more expensive, but they are more resistant to damage from deep discharges. They are also more resistant to damage from vibration, so if you're racing your MDX off-road, it's a no-brainer. Back to reality, they recharge faster. But they cost more and may not last any longer than a "conventional" lead-acid battery under "normal" conditions. Those of us "lucky" enough to have vehicles with idle-stop already have AGM batteries.
 

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Thanks for your feedback as I recently drive a lot and really can't enjoy it without music I may be draining my batteries pretty much. I will give those AGM betteries a look, may be a worthwhile investment in my case. I'm pretty sure my buddy at DSRLeasing told me something about them last time I talked with him.
 

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^^ Your alternator s/b putting out more than enough current to recharge your battery while you're listening to your music while driving. That's not the cause of any battery issue you might have - but what I'm saying is that you might not have a battery issue at all.

Again, there's a difference between a 'failed battery' and a 'battery low on charge'.
 
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