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Discussion Starter #1
So after my 43000 mile service, dealer told me that my original OEM pads are at 4.
Should I change it now or wait till end of summer?
If yes then what brand of pads and rotors ?
If going OEM then do both or just the breaks?


2014 MDX Tech FWD
 

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Unless you feel a vibration in the steering wheel when you brake in the 50 to 70 MPH speed range, you probably don't need rotors. One of the most oversold components on modern vehicles.
 

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Dealers are full of it. If they told you there are 4mm left, you may have 7or 8mm left. If you drive normal in a flat place, the pads can easily last 80k to 100k miles.

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Surprisingly the SM said it was ok not too change the rotors so I didn’t. FWIW I ran my fingers over the rotor edge to check but there was no ‘lip’. I know this is the non-professional method but....
 

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Get asecond opinion if possible. Unless you're riding on brake pedal, no way you'll need new pads at 43,000miles, pure BS. Just replaced my rear pads at 90,000 which still had 5mm left, front was done at 70,000 by PO. As mentioned above, new rotors (or resurfacing) are not needed if not warped.

AKEBONO ceramic pads are top choice for most.
 

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Dealers are full of it. If they told you there are 4mm left, you may have 7or 8mm left. If you drive normal in a flat place, the pads can easily last 80k to 100k miles.

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Just wondering how you could possibly know OP doesn’t need brakes? Have you seen the car? Do you know what type of driving OP does or where he lives. Have you had experience with the dealer? Yes dealers are expensive, but they are not all crooks.
 

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Just wondering how you could possibly know OP doesn’t need brakes? Have you seen the car? Do you know what type of driving OP does or where he lives. Have you had experience with the dealer? Yes dealers are expensive, but they are not all crooks.
I don't. My purpose is to provide OP with the most likely solution rather than being politically correct by saying 'they are not all crooks'. Of course you cannot be wrong by saying that, but it won't provide any real help with OP who is obviously concerned with the cost. Judging by the fact that OP cannot even spell 'brake' properly, it is more likely that your 'not-necessarily-crook' dealer was trying to take him for a ride.
 

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Dealers are full of it. If they told you there are 4mm left, you may have 7or 8mm left. If you drive normal in a flat place, the pads can easily last 80k to 100k miles.

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If you saw how my wife drives, you would take back your statement....in addition, western PA has a lot of hills, etc. that do take a toll on the brakes.

I have akebono ceramics on the front as well as Raybestos R300 slotted rotors. So far, so good. Job is an easy 1 to 2 beer job (how I measure my DIY jobs!) Hardest part is keeping the springs in the holes on the pads when trying to slide the caliper back on....
 

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If you saw how my wife drives, you would take back your statement....in addition, western PA has a lot of hills, etc. that do take a toll on the brakes.

I have akebono ceramics on the front as well as Raybestos R300 slotted rotors. So far, so good. Job is an easy 1 to 2 beer job (how I measure my DIY jobs!) Hardest part is keeping the springs in the holes on the pads when trying to slide the caliper back on....
I won't. If you bother to read my post carefully, your wife's driving habit and conditions have been specifically excluded.

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I don't. My purpose is to provide OP with the most likely solution rather than being politically correct by saying 'they are not all crooks'. Of course you cannot be wrong by saying that, but it won't provide any real help with OP who is obviously concerned with the cost. Judging by the fact that OP cannot even spell 'brake' properly, it is more likely that your 'not-necessarily-crook' dealer was trying to take him for a ride.
Ok,so based on the fact that ‘brake’ was spelled wrong. And having no other information,you surmised that the dealer was trying to rip him off.
Maybe it’s his spell check. Every time I write ‘but’ it inserts ‘butt’.
 

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If you saw how my wife drives, you would take back your statement....in addition, western PA has a lot of hills, etc. that do take a toll on the brakes.

I have akebono ceramics on the front as well as Raybestos R300 slotted rotors. So far, so good. Job is an easy 1 to 2 beer job (how I measure my DIY jobs!) Hardest part is keeping the springs in the holes on the pads when trying to slide the caliper back on....
Any perceived differences (performance or noise etc) vs OE Honda pads?
How’s pad dust?

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Akebono is the OEM Honda/Acura brake pad supplier, reportedly. Costs a little less from Rock Auto than other online Acura dealers. Their performance is great, quiet and low dust, can't go wrong if installed correctly.
 

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Akebono is the OEM Honda/Acura brake pad supplier, reportedly. Costs a little less from Rock Auto than other online Acura dealers. Their performance is great, quiet and low dust, can't go wrong if installed correctly.
Nice. I just went Honda this time. May try Akebono next.

Just curious are you getting the infamous braking noise/pop as you initially reverse? So annoying.


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