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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased a silver 2011 MDX, with 102K miles on it. Of course this means that the first thing I have to do is a timing belt, water pump, spark plugs and a valve adjustment.

Other than that, I am happy so far with the purchase.


It is amazing to me how difficult it was to find an MDX, Pilot or XC90 in good shape. I spent three weeks here in North Carolina looking at garbage. Ill maintained, damaged, broken, uncared for garbage. Funny enough though, I ended up getting my MDX for less than a comparable year/mileage/shape Pilot.
 

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It is amazing to me how difficult it was to find an MDX, Pilot or XC90 in good shape. I spent three weeks here in North Carolina looking at garbage.
Welcome to the forum.

Your experience mirrors mine, in North Carolina. There is so much trash, here, and so few good used vehicles. I used to live on the West coast, and it was a comparative heaven, over there. So many great vehicles available for good prices. But here in NC everything for sale used is a rusty turd that was not maintained, and poorly modified.
 

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I also have an 11 MDX Adv with +108,000 miles. The timing belt service popped up and the dealership quoted me around $1700 for the service. I can probably cut that price by more than 1/2 if purchase the parts myself and take to a local shop. That is usually the reason someone might trade in the MDX at 100K is because of this service.

The only issue you might have are the magnetic struts and shocks. There was an extended warranty up to 100K offered by Acura. It could cost $700-$1100 per corner to replace with OEM magnetic struts/shocks. Most folks just covert into regular suspension and add a resistor to turn off ADS warning light. I haven't heard of a person regretting the conversion once the ADS went out.

Other minor issue are if TSB for 6AT reflash was applied (shifts better, improved mpgs), the weak OEM HIDs, HIDs aimed too low, overdue for alignment, road force and regular balances needed, and picking good tires.
 

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Spent a year looking for a used vehicle that was taken care of. I have a hunch the better used cars are not for sale. I finally had to raise my price point to actually come home with something.


A good set of tires plus fluid changes raises the price a bit. I decided to look for 20-30k under the big timing belt service task in case I decide to sell again.



$1700 sound really high for timing belt service.
 

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It was for:
oil change+filter
water pump+coolant
timing belt+tensioner
serpentine belt
front/rear valve cover gasket
spark plugs
valve adjustment
intake manifold gasket
upper gasket

Around $700 in parts and $1000 labor (at dealership mark up prices). Those prices would scare anyone to trade in their MDX needing the 105K service for a newer vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies.


Luckily it has good tires on it, Bridgestone 422s. The HIDs are also good to go. I will look into the transmission reflash as well, better MPG works for me, especially after realizing it requires premium. Doh. Hopefully the suspension holds up.


Most likely, I will do the 105K maintenance myself. $300 or so in parts is easier to swallow than $800+, even if I do lose the majority of a weekend.


PO7, I moved here from Washington State (Seattle area) last May. A lot less rust and better cars over there. Plus I think people are more apt to actually take good care of their vehicles.
 

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I have found the transmissions really like having the 3 qt drain and 3qt fill every other oil change. Obviously along with the reflash...it really keeps my 11 shifting smooth, and really doesn't add much to the overall running costs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How do I check to see if the TSB has been performed on my MDX? And is there anything to do about increasing fuel mileage? I have been getting 17-18 in mixed driving so far, but I am guessing it is normal, as that fits square in the middle of the EPA range.
 

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How do I check to see if the TSB has been performed on my MDX? And is there anything to do about increasing fuel mileage? I have been getting 17-18 in mixed driving so far, but I am guessing it is normal, as that fits square in the middle of the EPA range.
The dealership should be able to access the maint records to double-check if the 6AT reflash was applied? I was only getting 19-20 mpg at hwy speeds before the reflash and normal 21-22 mpg afterwards at 75-80 mph. I also had to do the reflash to correct the intermittent "check charging system" yellow warning. Never got that message after the reflash until my OEM battery started to die a year later (no warning with replacement Interstate battery).

Your mpgs sounds the same as mine with about 50%-60% hwy driving speeds of 65-75 mph. The only way I've found to increase mpgs is to slow down, easy on the gas pedal when accelerating, set PSI around 35-37, and lots of hwy miles with little to no shifting. I can see 22-24 mpgs at 65-70 mph depending on hills and wind speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The dealership should be able to access the maint records to double-check if the 6AT reflash was applied? I was only getting 19-20 mpg at hwy speeds before the reflash and normal 21-22 mpg afterwards at 75-80 mph. I also had to do the reflash to correct the intermittent "check charging system" yellow warning. Never got that message after the reflash until my OEM battery started to die a year later (no warning with replacement Interstate battery).

Your mpgs sounds the same as mine with about 50%-60% hwy driving speeds of 65-75 mph. The only way I've found to increase mpgs is to slow down, easy on the gas pedal when accelerating, set PSI around 35-37, and lots of hwy miles with little to no shifting. I can see 22-24 mpgs at 65-70 mph depending on hills and wind speed.
Mostly I am driving country roads at 55-65, and a little bit in town. Not much freeway driving.
 

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We too just purchased a 2011 MDX with 120,000 miles and it does have aftermarket struts and the warning system/lights bypassed which we were not told by the dealership. Lucky for us it was a certified car so the dealership, as I type this, is replacing the struts with the OEM struts at a tune to almost 4500.00. The only reason we found out that the struts were different was the comfort light just blinked when on so we took it in to see why. When put on diagnostics there were 20 + codes that popped up and 6 warnings messages all linked to the ADS. I wonder if it is wise to replace these struts with aftermarket if so many other systems seem to be connected with the ADS. We also replaced the timing belt and water pump and are getting new tires. Once we get the car back it will be like new. We also are in Arizona and it is a 1 owner, Arizona car so absolutely no rust anywhere on the car. We love the car and are so happy and LUCKY that the dealership stood behind the cars problem and are correcting it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That could have been a bad situation, as the mileage would normally keep your MDX from being certified. When a dealership does the certification for a CPO program, however, a computer diagnostic is required by all of the manufacturers.


Most second tier car dealerships (i.e. Carmax) also include this in their inspection process.


The problem is when these cars go to the third tier car dealerships (private dealership), a lot of these problems get covered up. Car auctions are nasty affairs, with little ability to inspect the vehicles. Many times these small dealerships buy problem automobiles that cost more to fix (properly) than there is profit margin. So they reset codes, bypass systems, disable warning lights and do all kinds of other shady "repairs" in order to get profits.
Did I mention that I hate shopping for cars?
 
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