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Discussion Starter #1
So my wife's 2011 Acura MDX started blaring the security alarm on Sunday night and it showed warning stating

" Battery Charge Low" Switch off all electrical Devices

put the car on charging with charger and the blaring had stopped. Kept car overnight with it, disconnected and drove a little today, parked. The blaring started again.

Now she has put it on charge again. Btw the battery does seem to charge pretty quickly with even a low volt charger(3-4 hours)

From what ever i could read on the forum these look like signs that battery need to be changed.

Before I come back to the battery suggestions, here are some detail on current running & battery

- The current battery was replaced by Acura in Jan 2017 (it has run around 17k since then)
- Since last 6 months the daily is very low around half a mile a day and on some weekends it gets driven(deliberately) but most it just remains parked as we use the TLX more.

Considering all this, is it time to upgrade or weekly charging would suffice?

I am in Canada now and no cheap Costco Interstate Batteries, i checked and found following options,

Costco Kirkland AGM battery - $179
Costco Kirkland non AGM - $99 / $120 (the listing on rack was misplaced so was confusing so need to go back and check which one was which)
Interstate AGM battery(MTZ-34R) - $440
Inetrstate regular(MTP-24F) - $212.95

Canadians, Since there is no Autozone, where can i get a battery check done in GTA(Brampton) area?

Look forward to your suggestions :)
 

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@teknocrat

Costco Kirkland non AGM 24F - $99 / $120 (the listing on rack was misplaced so was confusing so need to go back and check which one was which)

I just replaced my battery last week (2009) MDX was $149. Luckily the old battery was a Costco so still had some pro-rated warranty on it. got back $49.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
@teknocrat

I just replaced my battery last week (2009) MDX was $149. Luckily the old battery was a Costco so still had some pro-rated warranty on it. got back $49.
Great, which one did you go for? AGM or regular? Also if it Was $149( is this with tax?) then that meanst $30 difference between the two.

How long did the old one last?

Also where did you get it installed?

Thanks
 

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Did the Acura battery not come with a 100 month warranty? You are only 24 months in and I think it's 100% warranty for the first 36 months. I would check with the dealer first to see if I am due a free battery.
 

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Did the Acura battery not come with a 100 month warranty? You are only 24 months in and I think it's 100% warranty for the first 36 months. I would check with the dealer first to see if I am due a free battery.
That is if the stealership is a good one. My last battery was ACURA, the battery died and I could not move the car from the garage. I removed the battery and went to the stealership for a prorated purchase. To my surprise, the service guy told me I had to bring the car for them to honor the warranty. I said, you are asking me to move a car that cannot start? He said, that is the only way we can honor the warranty.


So, this guy wanted me to spend a minimum of $150 in towing a car so they could test the alternator with the bad battery. I ended up purchasing a new battery for $120 and left the place. I just told them, that is the reason they have not seen my car in all these years.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did the Acura battery not come with a 100 month warranty? You are only 24 months in and I think it's 100% warranty for the first 36 months. I would check with the dealer first to see if I am due a free battery.
Thats was done by dealership in USA and I am now in Canada.
 

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Get the OEM one.

Costs a hundred CAD, fits perfectly, has 5 year warranty, and they will replace it with a prorated cost reduction if it fails early.

I did.

If you have an OEM battery from 2017 which failed, Acura will replace it at approximately 1/5 the cost.
 

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I doubt if Acura Canada will honor any work doe by Acura US.

Also it costed me $180 when i bought it from Acura US so i seriously doubt $100 from Acura Canada. Still i will call and check the dealer i bought my TLX from(Performance Acura Mississauga).

Please let me know if you know a good dealer in GTA :)
 

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I doubt if Acura Canada will honor any work doe by Acura US.
I see. Yes, in that case they won't.


Also it costed me $180 when i bought it from Acura US so i seriously doubt $100 from Acura Canada. Still i will call and check the dealer i bought my TLX from(Performance Acura Mississauga).
Yikes, that's way too expensive!

Mine cost me CAD $122:


Please let me know if you know a good dealer in GTA :)
Downtown Acura hands down the best service since 2011, when I bought the car. Always accommodating, very polite, friendly, helpful, never upselling anything. I've been servicing and repairing the car there for 7 years now, diminishing since about 2014, when I started working on my car myself little by little.
 

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Great, which one did you go for? AGM or regular? Also if it Was $149( is this with tax?) then that meanst $30 difference between the two.

How long did the old one last?

Also where did you get it installed?

Thanks
Regular 24F NOT the AGM and yes taxes in.

The old battery was just over 5yrs, but Cosctco will pro-rate up to 100 months.

I installed it myself.
If you ask nicely maybe the service tech will assist with the install. 0:)
Where in Canada are you? If your close I don't mind to lend a hand.

I see. Yes, in that case they won't.


Yikes, that's way too expensive!

Mine cost me CAD $122:
@AcuraAddicted

BIG diff in ACURA battery vs Costco. ACURA = 650CCA COSTCO = 850CCA

I would take the higher CCA's in our climate any day.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Regular 24F NOT the AGM and yes taxes in.

The old battery was just over 5yrs, but Cosctco will pro-rate up to 100 months.

I installed it myself.
If you ask nicely maybe the service tech will assist with the install. 0:)
Where in Canada are you? If your close I don't mind to lend a hand.
Thanks man,

I think i can install myself too just that i read online that some batteries are not same size in dimensions and may need an adjustment plate or so. Hence wanted to check but looks like its a direct fit.

I am in Brampton. I see AA is also in GTA. May be we should plan for a meet sometime :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So far if the car is parked without being locked(inside garage) the alarm doesn't ring. I will try and see over the weekend if it shows which door shows open.(Plan to open drivers window or may be sit inside and lock the car and see what MID shows)

The car is not showing any sign of low battery either. So could be a faulty sensor after all.
 

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Sorry to say but I don't like either the Costco or the Interstate (Interstate use to be the best) because both are made by Johnson Controls, and JC over the last 10 years has cheapened the quality of all the lines of batteries they make. Interstate use to be their flagship battery and it was the best you could get, but they crapped it out now, just as they did with the Optima brand!

The best battery now is either the Napa Legend which has the longest warranty in the industry, or the AC Delco Professional Gold which is a very robust design. The ones you find in auto parts stores under Advance, or Everstart, Duralast, Motorcraft, Walmart brand, Diehard, those white European batteries, and few other brands I can't recall are all made by Johnsons Out of Control company. The interesting thing about those white Euro OEM batteries is that they all get shipped to a dealer as a plain white battery, the dealer than receives a bunch of stickers with various european car manufacturers, so when a customer comes in and wants a genuine MBZ battery the dealer goes in the back finds the MBZ label information, places the labels on the battery and sells it to a customer for a lot of money because it says MBZ!

Anyways, the Napa Legend and the AC Delco Pro Gold are safe bets. There is some yak on the internet saying that JC makes the AC Delco, this is NOT true, at least not true for the AC Delco bats made in America for the American market, maybe JC made a deal for Delco in Asia but I can't confirm that.

By the way Consumer Reports is very wrong in their assessment of batteries, not sure where they get their information but over the past 20 years or so, they've been way off the mark on most things except cars and even with their car information I wonder. But I have neighbor who is one of the top guys at Johnson Controls locally where I live, and they make batteries in the city where I live, he says they get a lot of warranty returns on every single brand they make, he said up until the last 10 years they had some brands they rarely saw a return, but over these last 10 years they did something to ruin the batteries, he won't even buy a JC branded battery! But he does get a free battery once a year so he takes advantage of the free program, but if he had to buy one no way.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thought will give an update. since charging the batter wasnt working, I finally bought the battery from Costco and also bought a powerbank based jump starter. Decided to jump start the car as it wasn't starting the night before I was taking it to a local service shop. Car started with jump starter in one go.

Next day to my surprise it started without any assistance. Took it to the shop and asked them to do a battery test. The battery test showed that the batter is in good condition. CCA measured was 703 which is higher than the required 630, cranking was also at 10.71V in 0.88s.*No issues reported with load and without load either.

So next suspicion was BT/HFL Module, so decided to wait and watch for next drain. Been over a week and the car is working as if nothing happened. One thing to note Havent connected any BT device since then, not sure if that makes any difference but still.

So have returned the Battery and the charger as both were practically useless and only the portable jump starter came in handy so have kept that :)
 

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Everything I have read on the HFL module would lead me to believe connecting a device or not connecting has no impact on the battery drain issue.
 

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Agree with the HFL being the likely culprit. If you have a problem with it again I would disconnect the HFL before doing anything else. Next, I would take a hard look at the battery connectors, tightness of the connections and the condition of the cables. A new OEM negative cable will set you back less than $30 US, and might just cure your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Everything I have read on the HFL module would lead me to believe connecting a device or not connecting has no impact on the battery drain issue.
I agree, just being over cautious. However I also know that unlike most cars and even the new Honda/Acuras, The HFL in this generation of Acura/Honda would continue to work for about 30 mins after switching off the car if you are still on a call. So I am assuming that I will avoid this use case by not connecting to HFL.

Agree with the HFL being the likely culprit. If you have a problem with it again I would disconnect the HFL before doing anything else. Next, I would take a hard look at the battery connectors, tightness of the connections and the condition of the cables. A new OEM negative cable will set you back less than $30 US, and might just cure your problem.
Thanks, Yes I plan to disconnect the HFL if the issues resurfaces. This car has very low running and is primarily driven by my wife who is fine if the BT doesn't work as she doesn't use it.
 

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I agree, just being over cautious. However I also know that unlike most cars and even the new Honda/Acuras, The HFL in this generation of Acura/Honda would continue to work for about 30 mins after switching off the car if you are still on a call. So I am assuming that I will avoid this use case by not connecting to HFL.



Thanks, Yes I plan to disconnect the HFL if the issues resurfaces. This car has very low running and is primarily driven by my wife who is fine if the BT doesn't work as she doesn't use it.
I got the "Check Charging System" message awhile back. I opened the hood and checked, and sure enough it (the charging system) was still there. I had gone through three iterations of the HFL shake and bake. Each time it would work for about 10 days and then stop again. Once I got the charging message, I disconnected it and tightened the battery cables. I had trouble getting the negative cable tight to the point that the clamp couldn't be moved, even after removing it and slightly squeezing the sides with a pair of channel locks, so I ordered a new one. The battery and alternator checked out good with a voltmeter so I was reasonably sure the culprit was the HFL. Once the cable arrived it sat on my workbench for awhile, until I got the charging message again. I have installed the new cable and haven's seen the message since. I had read on this forum that the negative battery cable can corrode and since it is insulated the corrosion is not easily detectable.
 
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