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Discussion Starter #1
Good Day,

I own a 2009 Acura MDX Base and have 1 (or soon going to be 2) busted speaker.

The one that needs immediate replacement is the front door speaker.

I have searched and searched and cannot seem to find the specifications for the Sound system so I can make sure I am upgrading with proper speakers. All I know is that it is a" 235 Watt Premium Speaker System" which is included in my model. No information or amp rating, or the different speaker rating.

Just wondering if someone could guide me to the speaker rating information and the amp/system specifications.

If I know what I am dealing with, I will be able to upgrade properly.

Thank You.
 

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System is based on 4ohm speakers, 235watt system is more likely that the Subwoofer gets the most power so we are talking about 15-20watt per speaker and 100watt on the sub (This is all speculation because there is no specifications anywhere).

Based on part numbers:
Base Speaker (Your speaker) 39120-STX-A01 = 20 bucks a piece.
vs
ELS Speaker (Tech Package) 39120-STX-A01 = 20 bucks a piece.
They are both the same speaker, So you don´t need to worry about getting the wrong speaker.

If you are talking about Aftermarket then ANY kind of sub 40 buck speaker will do.. The system is low powered so is tailored to sound good with the stock speakers, adding aftermarket coaxials will only pull the sound stage lower which will make it sound way off.. So its your choice..
 

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Ok, so because my speaker was getting more annoying, I took apart the front door that was giving me grief. On the Speaker it said - "2 OHM 20RMS".

Interestingly, there is barely any 2 OHM after market speakers available. I don't think it is wise to replace with a 4OHM alternative - am I correct in assuming that?

So if I understand this properly, I am better off just purchasing a replacement OEM speaker from the dealer rather than even considering after market?
 

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ohh you are correct... It is 2ohm..
Adding a 4ohm Speaker will only make it sound lower (Volume wise) and the power will be cut in half but it will work without any issues on the stock amp, in fact it will ran cooler since 2ohm load is "heavier" than 4ohm for the AMP.

I will advise you to keep the OEM Speaker, Yes.
 

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Took your advise @skirmich and ordered the stock speakers. Cost me about 40 bucks here in Canada.

A decent pair of speakers would cost me around 100 bucks a pair, so cost wise probably the same. Plus, those 100 dollar speakers wouldn't have been ground breaking anyway.

Now, do you know of any DIY's for this? From when I took out the speaker, it seemed like it was glued/soldered with the brackets.

I will be attempting to do this on the weekend, but if I could be pointed towards a DIY, it would make my life so much simpler.

Thanks.
 

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Use this video to remove the Panels:

The speaker itself is attached to a plastic bracket by 3 small Philips bolts so its pretty easy... The hardest part is to remove the door panel and its not really that hard.
 

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Okay, old thread, new problem. 2009, no navi.

Pax front speaker was bad. Replaced with CDT 4-ohm carbon fiber beast, sounds great. Since one was bad, figured the other would be too. Yup, delaminated. No sweat, right? Throw the other CDT in there and move on. Ah, no. No sound from drivers side speaker. Only the woofer, and only the front. Rear is fine. Checked the speaker with a battery, it's fine. Hooked up old speaker, nothing. No voltage reading on speaker leads, no matter what. Wires look fine.

What the heck is going on? Did the amp suddenly go bad while I was working on the speaker? All other speakers are fine, including driver's tweeter. Yes, fuses are all fine.

Super-frustrating, the second speaker was supposed to be piece of cake. Now my wife has to drive my beater until I get this mess fixed. Any help would be appreciated!
C.
 

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Maybe, but 4 ohm speakers draw LESS power than 2 ohms. Amps = Volts over Ohms: ohms goes up, amps goes down. And how can it be just the driver's woofer, not the tweeter? They run off the same signal, right?

I was careful not to short the wires, but it was turned off while I worked anyway. Trying to think of some way to test. Maybe check wire continuity from amp to door (again). I just don't see how this happened.
Thanks!
 

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The hits just keep coming. Both speaker wires are busted at the bulkhead connector. But they're busted on the vehicle side, not the door side! I read here about replacing the door sub-harness, but my problem is much worse. I don't know what to do next.
 

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Update:
There's a short harness from the door into the vehicle. Dealer has one! Should be smooth sailing now...
Trying to figure out how to post pics from phone. Maybe save somebody else from this headache.
Thanks all!
C.
 
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