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STARTS FINE, DRIVES WITH NO INDICATION OF ELECTRICAL DRAIN. PARK IT FOR 1-2 HRS AND IT IS DEAD...SOMETIMES 1-2 WEEKS UNTIL REPEAT
NEW BATTERY AND HAD A DEALER CHECK THE SYSTEM. THEY CANNOT FIND THE DRAIN ....GO FIGURE (LOL)
ANY ASSISTANCE/ADVICE GREATLY APPRECIATED
 

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That's a huge drain if it dies from fully charged to won't start in 1-2 hours, and you are verifying that the voltage is low. You could have gotten unlucky with a bum new battery.

Next I'd be suspicious that the alternator is sometimes not charging the battery fully and the dash light is not coming on. I'd get the alternator checked.

Even if the alternator is charging fully the drain is so high I'd expect whatever is failing is getting hot, and I'd still be suspicious that the diodes in the alternator voltage regulator are allowing reverse current through.

Next you might consider getting a $10 IR thermometer and check the alternator temp and temps of relays when it won't start.

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I remember a few years our 2005 was doing that. It was the bluetooth module located up near the garage door opener switches. We suspected it because it was warm when the car had been off for hours. Pulled it out, problem solved. Good luck.
 

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I agree (as usual) with colinnwn… if something is draining a good, charged battery in a couple hours, it's GOT to be creating enough heat to be fairly easy to find (usually because of the smoke). ;-)

This is a good example of why it's good to have a voltmeter (which you can get free if you wait for the right Harbor Freight coupon to come along). A good alternator should put out about 14 volts with the engine running, and a good battery should hold at least 12 volts overnight, even in winter temperatures (which will reduce any lead / acid battery's voltage).

The next step in diagnosing a battery drain is to put an ammeter (measures current) in series with the negative (or positive) lead of the battery. But in this case, if the problem IS a current drain, it's likely drawing too much current to measure with an el cheapo ammeter (which are normally fuse-protected at 10 amps or so). An interesting option would be to put a good-size 12 volt light bulb in series (between the battery's negative terminal and the negative battery cable). That way, if you have any heavy current drain, it'll just turn on the light (limiting the total current drain to that of the light bulb, even if it's a dead short). Of course, a lower "bad" current drain will still light up the bulb, just not at full brightness. The nice thing about this approach is that you find the current drain by simply pulling fuses until the "light goes out". Oh, and you'll want to turn off your dome lights, as they draw quite a bit of current themselves which can mask a "normal" current drain (though probably not one that will drain a battery in 1-2 hours).
 
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