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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just the other day we lost AC in our 2003 mdx.blower works but only blows hot air.is there a blend door somewhere that might be stuck?or is there something else to look for other then a low Freon charge.

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the reply habbyguy,wife just got home from work so I got a chance to take a look-see.the clutch on the compressor does not seem to be engaging.i was gonna change the relay and or the fuse but am unsure as to which one is what.that would narrow it down to electrical or low Freon.
 

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forbin404, it's a little more complicated than I figured. I know here in Arizona, it takes a little while to get the cabin cooled down when it's 110° (probably 160° inside the vehicle), but it DOES get nice and cold. When it's "only" 90° or so (and dry), it gets downright chilly.

The book procedure involves dropping the glovebox and putting a thermometer in the heater box but you could probably use the ambient temperature in the footwells as a reasonable guesstimate of that, I suppose. I'm surprised how much humidity affects the outlet temperature.



 

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I had to recently recharge my 03 MDX for first time since purchased used, maybe first time ever! 14 yrs on a charge is not bad. Cooling had declined and both low and high side pressures were low.

You need a set of gauges to assess system charge level. If low side is below about 20 psi w/ engine off then compressor will not engage and system is near empty. You don't say whether compressor is engaging. Pro help may be needed.

good luck
 

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I just checked my (functional) A/C. It's just over 90°, and the nose of the car is in the shade. The interior was around 92°, and running the A/C on full auto mode (which put it into recirculate), the air coming out of the top left vent got down to 51°. I think it was still on its way down, as the air going into the heater box cooled down - it had dropped to about 82° in two minutes. That seems to put the performance of my system near the lower (best) boundary of the "chart" above. That's a VERY good thing, living in Arizona in July and August!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
finally got a chance to do some tests,jumpered out the relay pins with no joy.even ran a hot wire directly from the battery and the clutch still will not engage.looks like its time for a stator field replacement and it looks like another nasty acura repair.


oh and thanks for hijacking my thread.>:)
 

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Plott hound, sounds like you've done all the due diligence that's necessary - if 12VDC to the coil won't give you a clutch engagement, you've got a bad clutch. I haven't had to do anything to my compressor (or any other A/C component) yet, so can't help you with a lot of info there.

Let us know how the fix goes, and what you end up replacing. I once fixed my Volvo A/C clutch by inserting some thin wire between the frame and clutch plate (pushing it about 1mm closer, which was all it needed to engage consistently). That was enough to get it to engage 100% (this is a common problem with Volvos, and my fix was a $0, 30 minute alternative to an UGLY job of replacing the compressor, or even getting it to the point where you could put a new clutch on it or even swapping the shims to close the clutch gap).
 

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AC relay info

I see page 22-86 for testing the relay? I ask this because my AC quit working, clutch is not engaging. Good or bad, I had an accident not long after and the body shop had to replace the radiator and the AC condensor in the repairs. They said it was still not working. The shop checked the power line going to the compressor and reported that it showed a lack of current. His best guess was a relay. Which, was not damaged apparently during the crash. I did not argue because I had previous problems. I need to test that relay. So where would I find that procedure? Thanks for the quick reply. It is in the mid 90s here in GA. 2003 first gen MDX.
 

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The procedure is dead simple - it's just apply power across the coil and check for continuity across the contacts. The pin-out might help, though - you can easily put a jumper wire across the connector to simulate closed contacts, and also check to see if you're getting power to that point. If you jump the contacts and the clutch engages, you know to troubleshoot back from there and figure out if it's a bad relay, or why the relay isn't being commanded on. If you jump the contacts (and are getting 12 volts TO the contacts) and the relay doesn't come on, you have a bad clutch, or possibly a bad wire / connector to the clutch. I'd do with the OP (whose thread is being hijacked like a Somalian cruise ship) and run 12 volts directly to the clutch contact to see if it engages. If you're lucky, it will (and then you troubleshoot back from there).

 

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forbin404, it's a little more complicated than I figured. I know here in Arizona, it takes a little while to get the cabin cooled down when it's 110° (probably 160° inside the vehicle), but it DOES get nice and cold. When it's "only" 90° or so (and dry), it gets downright chilly.

The book procedure involves dropping the glovebox and putting a thermometer in the heater box but you could probably use the ambient temperature in the footwells as a reasonable guesstimate of that, I suppose. I'm surprised how much humidity affects the outlet temperature.



After I hijacked this thread, I finally got my system recharged ($90 at local shop). He proved that it is now coming out at 51deg out of the vents with recirc on and 55 deg without (90 outside). It feels 'colder' but not freezing.

So just an fyi, it cost me $90
 
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