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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
TL;DR

Battery terminal Snapped in the winter, drove other car, replaced battery and terminal 3 days ago. MDX drove fine the past 3 days. Try to start this morning and cranks but won't start. Realize the dash lights and headlights won't turn off after a few seconds, try jumping.

No Dice... To google!!!

Check to see if immobilizer could be the problem.

Find a site with instructions on resetting it, which were to put the key in the ignition, turn to on, then remove and replace the negative battery terminal. Do that, and it starts.

Hoooraaaay!!!! Victory lap around the neighborhood!

Turn off MDX. Dash lights dim, car keeps running.

Stupid takes over, I remove batter cables thinking that should turn it off. noooope.

Call dealer. Dealer points to the 15a fuel pump relay fuse. Pull that, car shuts off.

Reset password to MDXer's. Make this post.


Anyone run into this that's willing to share what the solution is? I was going to get the e-test and re-register it today, but I'm not sure they'd let all the dash lights constantly running and car not shutting off slide. Could the fuel pump relay cause this? As it stands, the dash lights stay on if the negative side of the battery is attached so I disconnected it and the only way it starts is with the key in the on position and to make it turn off I have to pull the fuel pump relay fuse.
 

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Does it start normally once the fuel pump fuse is reinstalled?

For it not turning off, only thing I can think of is that the ignition switch (or subsystem) is staying engaged. I’d have to check the electrical diagram which I can’t do until tonight. Maybe someone can post it. Once started, you might try jiggling the key and/or switch when you go the the off position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does it start normally once the fuel pump fuse is reinstalled?

For it not turning off, only thing I can think of is that the ignition switch (or subsystem) is staying engaged. I’d have to check the electrical diagram which I can’t do until tonight. Maybe someone can post it. Once started, you might try jiggling the key and/or switch when you go the the off position.
it does NOT start normally after pulling the fuse. It's the same issue as before where the indicators are fully lit and immobilizer prevents a start until I put the key in and turn it to on and pull/replace the negative battery cable. I've jiggled... ooooh how I've jiggled, but I'm afraid the jiggling may not be the lynch-pin to unraveling this mystery. My gut says it's related to the electrical but I'm just not sure if it's related to the Fuel pump/injector relay or if it's related to the ignition switch that was replaced on a recall, which I'm guessing the dealership that did the work would wave all liability for while billing me 30% of the car's value to repair it.
 

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So you can do the swap suggested by Wilson, here's a link that shows where the ignition relay is - under the dash near the steering column. You didn't mention which number fuse you are pulling. In this circuit, there is #8, underhood sub fuse box, with a 15A fuse that connects to the switch side of the relay. There is also #46 underhood main fuse/relay box, that connects to the coil side of the relay. This circuit controls the signal to PCM, ignition coils, and spark plugs. It's separate from the dash lights which is called the reminder system.

https://www.google.com/search?q=ign...KHbLwAtsQ9QEwCnoECAQQBA#imgrc=-Z9aAbEkYepyUM:

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So you can do the swap suggested by Wilson, here's a link that shows where the ignition relay is - under the dash near the steering column. You didn't mention which number fuse you are pulling. In this circuit, there is #8, underhood sub fuse box, with a 15A fuse that connects to the switch side of the relay. There is also #46 underhood main fuse/relay box, that connects to the coil side of the relay. This circuit controls the signal to PCM, ignition coils, and spark plugs. It's separate from the dash lights which is called the reminder system.

https://www.google.com/search?q=ign...KHbLwAtsQ9QEwCnoECAQQBA#imgrc=-Z9aAbEkYepyUM:

Good luck!
do you happen to have a diagram for the fuel pump/injector relay? If I pull the ignition relay to test it probably wont start. Odds are I just go buy one regardless and return if not needed.
 

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To be sure, you can google it. I’m not near a manual. On an 06 it’s near the same spot. It should be the blue one in the picture. Up high, right side of the steering column.

Note that Wilson is saying to swap the ignition relay with another one like it. There are 3 others in the cluster and there are more in the main underhood fuse box that you can probably harvest from. If the no start is related to the relay, chances are by swapping it, it will start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
To be sure, you can google it. I’m not near a manual. On an 06 it’s near the same spot. It should be the blue one in the picture. Up high, right side of the steering column.

Note that Wilson is saying to swap the ignition relay with another one like it. There are 3 others in the cluster and there are more in the main underhood fuse box that you can probably harvest from. If the no start is related to the relay, chances are by swapping it, it will start.
That is... not conducive to my stature. After an hour and multiple cramps, I cut the bracket out and am about to replace the blue one. I couldn't find the pgm-fi main relay that has all the problems to save my life though. Do you have a pic of THAT doo-dad's location by chance? Figure if the relay doesn't resolve the problem, I still need to find that and check the solder joints, or is that NOT a part in the 2003 touring?
 

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I posted diagrams and troubleshooting steps for the relays in your other thread.

However, after reading your backstory, I'm not sure I'd jump to that part as being the issue. Why do you think it is the problem?

You had a battery terminal/cable break and your issue didn't start until then. Why wouldn't you look at that repair as the likely cause?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I posted diagrams and troubleshooting steps for the relays in your other thread.

However, after reading your backstory, I'm not sure I'd jump to that part as being the issue. Why do you think it is the problem?

You had a battery terminal/cable break and your issue didn't start until then. Why wouldn't you look at that repair as the likely cause?
I guess, mainly, because it's just a battery terminal. Could a battery terminal cause this big of a clusterfudge? It's literally like this:

Positive batt terminal breaks -> Get home -> Park it for ~7months -> buy new battery and terminal -> install both -> blinking green key light and car won't turn over cuz anti-theft -> find workaround where you turn key to on position then connect negative side of terminal -> start car (ABS, several other lights on) -> drive car for 10 mins -> park car -> car won't shut off -> pull fuel pump fuse to get it to turn off.

Also, it wasn't the relay.
 

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I guess, mainly, because it's just a battery terminal. Could a battery terminal cause this big of a clusterfudge? It's literally like this:

Positive batt terminal breaks -> Get home -> Park it for ~7months -> buy new battery and terminal -> install both -> blinking green key light and car won't turn over cuz anti-theft -> find workaround where you turn key to on position then connect negative side of terminal -> start car (ABS, several other lights on) -> drive car for 10 mins -> park car -> car won't shut off -> pull fuel pump fuse to get it to turn off.

Also, it wasn't the relay.
It's possible there is another issue. I'm just saying that the most likely explanation is the simplest one... And if you recently messed with the battery terminal and now have electrical issues, then that's where I'd look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It's possible there is another issue. I'm just saying that the most likely explanation is the simplest one... And if you recently messed with the battery terminal and now have electrical issues, then that's where I'd look.
hmmm... After I grab my kids from school I'll check the new terminal and make sure it's fully tightened to the cables. If that's NOT the problem, would it be taking it to a dealer to have them reinitialize the immobilizer?
 

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hmmm... After I grab my kids from school I'll check the new terminal and make sure it's fully tightened to the cables. If that's NOT the problem, would it be taking it to a dealer to have them reinitialize the immobilizer?
The immobilizer will prevent the vehicle from starting. If you're vehicle starts normally, then the immobilizer is not the issue.
 

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hmmm... After I grab my kids from school I'll check the new terminal and make sure it's fully tightened to the cables. If that's NOT the problem, would it be taking it to a dealer to have them reinitialize the immobilizer?
My car is having the exact same issue. Did you by chance figure out the problem? I have taken my car to multiple mechanics and they can not figure it out. Any information would be appreciated. Thank you
 
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