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Discussion Starter #1
I hope the way I've described this makes sense; I'll do my best to be clear and concise.

Before I began what I'm about to describe I was receiving code P0740 - Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit. The engine and transmission were working fine.

I replaced all four solenoids on the transmission, but I did them in in two different stages based on the fact that I received a couple of the solenoids in the mail a few days before the other.

The first solenoids I replaced were part #'s 28250-P7W-003 (Solenoid Assy., Linear) along with 28400-P6H-013 (Solenoid Assy. (A) (Keihin)) and 28500-P6H-013 (Solenoid Assy. (B) (Keihin)). I put these on and then proceeded on a test drive to see if the code would come back. After about 15 miles the same P0740 code came back. Still, the engine and transmission were performing great.

A few days later when I received the final solenoid in the mail I went ahead and put it on. It is part #28250-P6H-024 (Solenoid Assy., Linear). Once I put this part on I took if for a test drive and within the first mile I got a new code; P1750 (TCM A/T System Fault). At the same time the transmission began working very poorly. It wasn't shifting right and when it did shift it would be very rough from one gear to the next. Trying to move ahead after a stop, the MDX would barely get going. I had to drive home at about 10 MPH.

Another thing that happened was that the green ring around the D5 light on the dash began blinking.

Does anyone have any thoughts on why making this final replacement would all of a sudden cause any of this? Does anyone know exactly what the P1750 code could mean? It just seems weird that replacing these would all of sudden cause problems that weren't there before. I've been racking my brain and thought I'd ask around.

Thank you in advance for any help.
 

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1. Check whether the OBD II scan tool indicates another code.
Does the OBD II scan tool indicate another code?
YES - Perform the troubleshooting flowchart for the indicated code(s). Recheck for code P1750 after troubleshooting.
NO - Go to step 2.
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
3. Replace the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B.
4. Reset the PCM memory with the PGM Tester or by removing the BACK UP fuse in the passenger's underdash fuse/relay box for more than 10 seconds.
5. Drive the vehicle for several minutes in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears in the position.
6. Recheck for code P1750.
Does the OBD II scan tool indicate code P1750?
YES - Replace the transmission.
NO - The problem has been corrected.

Kinda points at the first solenoids you replaced. Guess you could swap those back and test drive. Might be wiser to drain the trans fluid. If it's deep purple with a sheen of silver, then the trans is pretty much toast.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I saw those steps when I did an internet search for the code as well. I'm wondering if someone might have another idea based on what I described. Especially since the solenoids are new and the way in which things progressed.

Trans fluid looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Does anyone know about the Range Position Switch? I found a page that suggested it could be a bad Range Position Switch or that the Range Position Switch Harness is open, shorted or has a bad connection.

I'm not familer with a Range Position Switch. Does anyone have thoughts about that part?
 

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My first suggestion is kind of generic (but could well apply in this case). If you change a part, and a new problem develops, change the part back to the old one. And of course, there are a lot of things that you could have potentially done that would have induced a new problem - most being related to hooking up wrong, or neglecting to hook something up. Easy to do, since it's a "busy area". I'd recommend going in to swap the original linear solenoid back in, looking for something you did wrong while you're doing that - if you don't find anything obvious, swap the original LS back in and see if you're back to where you were (then decide if you need to order another one),

That said, in general, doing a fluid drain-and-fill is always the best thing you can do to a Honda transmission. They're very susceptible to dirty "worn-out" fluid (it DOES "wear out", basically). I'm also a big fan of LubeGard Platinum, and have seen it "fix" some pretty funky trannies (just add 10 ounces or so with your fluid drain-and-fil).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Habbyguy,

Your "generic" suggestion sounds like a really good place to start. I think the first thing I'm going to do is change the ATF. My MDX has been sitting for quite some time so I know that it can't hurt to get new ATF in there.

I'm not familiar with LubeGard Platinum. Is this similar to Lucas StopSlip or Lucas ATF Conditioner?

I did go through everything over and over to make sure that I got everything hooked back up properly. I spent some serious time looking for anything that I might have missed.

Once I change out the ATF I'll do a test drive and see what happens. If I end up getting that code again then I'll put the old part back in and do another test drive. I'll just keep checking boxes off until I go through everything.

I did some research on the Range Position Switch I was asking about and still can't figure out what I need. I've come across a number of different names and not sure what is what or if they are all the same thing with different names.

Anyone know the difference (if any) between the following parts?

Range Position Switch
Position Sensor
Neutral Safety Switch

Again, thank you in advance for any info.

Rock'n MDX
 

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Sounds like you have a good plan of action.. AFAIK, LubeGard Platinum is a "conditioner" that (IIRC) replenishes some of the additives that tranny fluid needs. I just know that I've "fixed" a couple trannies that had some pretty serious issues using it, and have heard from others who've had good luck. I tend to be pretty skeptical about "snake oil", but it does kind of make sense that a transmission fluid additive that helps loosen up valves and solenoids could help restore order in the moving bits.

There is nearly NO consistency in the name of given parts, which can make it "interesting' to do research. I'm really not sure if the "position switch" incorporates the neutral safety function or if it's handled by another switch (if it exists, it would most likely be near the linkage). I'd tend not to suspect the position switch for a sudden onset of a consistent issue, as it generally fails gradually as the switch contacts start getting grungy (this can often be temporarily cleared with a "shifter row", basically just running the shift lever from P to L a few times quickly to "clean" the contacts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hello Again Habbyguy, (& anyone else who can help)

Sorry to keep bugging you, but I've seen you post on a bunch of other threads about our tranmissions, so I have to pick your brain.

I am trying to find the ATF fill plug on my 02 MDX. I've searched everywhere for it and I just can't seem to find it on my MDX. The best pic I can find that shows its location is from another post for an 01. I've circled what I believe is the fill bolt...am I correct?

113994


I seriously can't believe what a difficult time I'm having trying to find this fill bolt on my own MDX. Based on the above picture I see all the other stuff to the left and right of the bolt, but where I think the fill bolt is supposed to be on my MDX I see some kind other attachment with a hose/line coming off of it.

Below is the picture that I took of my 02 MDX. What am I missing??????

113995
 
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