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Discussion Starter #1
I was always curious how long it would take to change most of the maintenance items and today I had some time to time it.

In one sitting I changed:
Oil & Oil Filter
Transmission Fluid
Transfer Case oil
Rear Differential
Rotated Wheels
Cabin Air Filter

It took just over two hours from when I started grabbing my tools to when I put the last tool away.

I did have two drain pans to work with so that helped save some time but I had an oil spill when I picked up the open oil pan to pour it into my oil container I use for bulk recycling. That sucked - most spilled onto my floor pan but some hit me and the concrete. That was a first for me, up until that point I only had drips on the pan mainly from the wind blowing while it’s draining.

I haven’t been to a dealer for service in years. Any idea what that would have cost at the dealer?
 

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That's would be about right for what it takes me on my wife's pilot if I didn't take the time to really clean the inside barrel of the wheels each rotation. Expect the same with her new MDX. I also use a fumoto quarter turn drain valve on all my vehicles, that makes draining the oil a breeze and speeds up the process. And my garage floor has the epoxy coating so it's easy clean up if I spill something. Only place I struggle is I only have 1 nice floor jack. I have to use jack stands and/or the crappy spare tire jack to aid in rotating tires. I've been meaning to pick up a matching floor jack but haven't yet...
 

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Not using jack stands is a good way to kill your self. Never work under a vehicle that is supported only by a jack.
 

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Not using jack stands is a good way to kill your self. Never work under a vehicle that is supported only by a jack.
He says he has jack stands. He only has one jack.
Re-read his post. He says he “has to use” jack stands and that he wants to get a second jack. It appears to me he wants to use the 2nd jack in lieu of properly supporting the vehicle on stands.

Only place I struggle is I only have 1 nice floor jack. I have to use jack stands and/or the crappy spare tire jack to aid in rotating tires. I've been meaning to pick up a matching floor jack but haven't yet...
 

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Well it appears to me that he wants to use 2 jacks so he doesn’t have to jack up one side,then support it with stands,then move to the other side. You were wrong on my ACC post yesterday. Perhaps he will respond.
Maybe I’m wrong but,I don’t assume people are that stupid.
 

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Well it appears to me that he wants to use 2 jacks so he doesn’t have to jack up one side,then support it with stands,then move to the other side. You were wrong on my ACC post yesterday. Perhaps he will respond.
Maybe I’m wrong but,I don’t assume people are that stupid.
Where was I wrong on the ACC post? If someone uses standard cruise control then showing the set speed is redundant since it maintains the current speed which is shown by... drumroll.... the speedometer.
 

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Where was I wrong on the ACC post? If someone uses standard cruise control then showing the set speed is redundant since it maintains the current speed which is shown by... drumroll.... the speedometer.
You stated that I was looking at the nav system speed limit. There is no speed limit info in the nav system.

I don’t think you and the other guy are talking about the same thing....

You are talking about the nav displaying current speed limit... that has nothing to do with cruise control set speed.
 

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He's only rotating the tires (that's how I read it) which is why he wants a second jack. He's not going under the vehicle. Still, jack stands at all four corners would be optimal. I usually just throw one of my winter wheels/tires on the first corner of the car that a tire comes off, and then move all the others around, and finally put the last tire rotated on in place of the winter wheel/tire.
 

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He's only rotating the tires (that's how I read it) which is why he wants a second jack. Still, I don't see the big deal. Jack up the front (or back), put jack stands at the side jack points, then go jack up the rear (all wheels are now off the ground). Do you need jack stands for that end of the vehicle? You're not going under it- just removing the wheels. Still, a second set of jack stands for the rear would be optimal.
Much safer to use stands. I use four stands so the vehicle is level. Makes draining fluids and level checks easy, too.
 

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OMG, I'm not an idiot. I only use a jack to rotate tires, I never and I mean NEVER get under a car without it being on ramps or supported by jack stands. I even slide a jack stand under if I have a floor jack under there to pull a tire off just in case. 2 nice floor jacks would be way quicker than having to mess with the time consuming bottle jack or little scissor jack, they take forever to operate....

I have to say p07r0457, you make me want to leave this forum with your posts...
 

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OMG, I'm not an idiot. I only use a jack to rotate tires, I never and I mean NEVER get under a car without it being on ramps or supported by jack stands. I even slide a jack stand under if I have a floor jack under there to pull a tire off just in case. 2 nice floor jacks would be way quicker than having to mess with the time consuming bottle jack or little scissor jack, they take forever to operate....
If you're using jack stands then I just don't see why two floor jacks would be any faster... One person can only operate one floor jack, at a time.

Jack up front, place two jack stands.
Jack up rear, place two jack stands.

Done.
 

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If you're using jack stands then I just don't see why two floor jacks would be any faster... One person can only operate one floor jack, at a time.

Jack up front, place two jack stands.
Jack up rear, place two jack stands.

Done.
Wife,please help. Half the time.
 

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Maybe this will spell it out for you a little better...

Swapping front and rear tires on one side, I use 2 jacks. Jack front up right behind front tire. Slide jack stand under front. Jack rear up just in front of rear tire. Slide jack stand under. Remove front tire. Remove rear tire. Place rear on front, place front on rear. Remove rear stand and lower rear. Remove front stand and lower front. Change side and repeat. This assumes the front and rear are the same size (rear not wider than front).

If rotating "X pattern" I will typically raise the rear if the vehicle and rest both sides on jack stands and remove rear tires. Then one at a time I'll SLOWLY raise the front and slide a stand under while front is resting on the jack and swap out one side at a time. This assumes the tires are not directional.

I've had my 6.0 diesel engine out and in pieces in my garage so I know my way around an engine. Besides working in flip flops at times I'm pretty safe, especially when I've got to get under a vehicle. I may be worth more dead than alive but that doesn't mean I have a death wish!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
C’Mon folks - to each their own most people learn something new everyday.

Even today I learned I shouldn’t use an open drain pan for an oil change on the MDX. While it wasn’t full it was too full to handle without spilling. I am going back to my old storage drain pan which is easy to hold and pour without spilling.

I have to admit in my early days I used just a scissor jack to lift and hold a vehicle up while under it. Now I have more jack stands than I have corners on cars.

I have learned a lot since then and still learn.

I’d love to know how much the above service would have cost if I brought it to a dealer?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Maybe this will spell it out for you a little better...

Swapping front and rear tires on one side, I use 2 jacks. Jack front up right behind front tire. Slide jack stand under front. Jack rear up just in front of rear tire. Slide jack stand under. Remove front tire. Remove rear tire. Place rear on front, place front on rear. Remove rear stand and lower rear. Remove front stand and lower front. Change side and repeat. This assumes the front and rear are the same size (rear not wider than front).

If rotating "X pattern" I will typically raise the rear if the vehicle and rest both sides on jack stands and remove rear tires. Then one at a time I'll SLOWLY raise the front and slide a stand under while front is resting on the jack and swap out one side at a time. This assumes the tires are not directional.
I have a decent floor jack and raise the front first from the frame which lifts up the whole front end. I place two stands and lower it on the stand.

I then go to the rear and do the same.

The front and the rear have jack points in the center but you need a good floor jack.

With the whole car up it’s an easy rotation and gives me time to check the brake calipers. Normally I’ll clean the caliper pins when I rotate but I just now realized I forgot that today. I’ll check it when I switch out to my winter tires.
 

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I’d love to know how much the above service would have cost if I brought it to a dealer?
Oh it would be PAINFUL.

At my local dealer:

$69.95 - "B" - Oil & Oil Filter
$459.95 - "3" - Transmission Fluid & Transfer Case oil
$149.95 - "6" - Rear Differential
$29.95 - "1" Rotated Wheels
$159.95 - "2" Cabin Air Filter (includes engine air filter)
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$869.75 - Subtotal
$65.23 - 7.5% sales tax
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$934.98 Total
 

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$80 an hour labor is what my mechanic buddy charges plus cost of parts/fluids. And he charges time to whatever the "book" says it would be. If it says it takes 3 hours to do the job then he's charging you 3 hours labor. That's regardless if it takes him 2 or 5 hours. Typically he is on the quicker side. I forget what he subscribes to that has all the info / forum for mechanics. It's expensive but has everything a mechanic needs at their finger tips.

Dealerships may be a tad over that, at least in my area. Maybe $100ish per hour. I only have 1 friend locally that's a mechanic at a ford dealership but we don't talk as much. Most of my diesel tech contacts are from the F250 forum. I personally rarely use a dealership, I just enjoy doing my own wrenching. My buddy that has his own shop has only done 2 timing belt changes for me. And that's because I just hate doing them. Everything else I do, I've got everything needed but a lift at home.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I’d love to know how much the above service would have cost if I brought it to a dealer?
Oh it would be PAINFUL.

At my local dealer:

$69.95 - "B" - Oil & Oil Filter
$459.95 - "3" - Transmission Fluid & Transfer Case oil
$149.95 - "6" - Rear Differential
$29.95 - "1" Rotated Wheels
$159.95 - "2" Cabin Air Filter (includes engine air filter)
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$869.75 - Subtotal
$65.23 - 7.5% sales tax
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$934.98 Total
Wow! For #3 is that a 3x3 or just a 1x1. How in the world do they justify that $460?
 
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