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Hey guys,

Today the A/C on my 2003 MDX stopped working. The temp here is around 90 degrees and humid.

SYMPTOMS:

When I turn the A/C on and manually turn the fan speed on high, only warm air blows out.

Then, if i press the full auto button, it goes into recirculation mode and the fan speed starts to drop immediately to a very slow speed blowing warm air. Temp was set at 60 degrees.

The fan speed would also slow down when I raised the temp from 60 degrees to say 66 or 68 degrees. The outside ambient temperature was 78 degrees.

I tried installing a jumper wire on the blue thermo fuse, but no cool air. My cabin filter was relatively dirty, so I removed it from the air box and will replace it with new one.

I also used an ohmmeter on the blue wired fuse and it showed a closed circuit.

Not sure what to do next. Don't know if it's worth ordering new thermal cutoffs from digi-key since the jumper wire did not work and the ohmmeter showed the circuit was intact.

Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Have you run the self-diagnostic? Are both fans running in the engine compartment? Is the clutching engaging?
 

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My 2004 MDX had the same issue: front blower stopped working, therefore the AC compressor stopped working at the same time, while the rear AC blower worked fine.

Ran the self test and returned code "N" meaning problem with the blower circuit.

Followed the instructions here and found the transistor not working. Used the resistor left from last time when the rear AC blower stopped working, and did fix the transistor. However, the front transistor still not working, even with the fixed transistor which was approved by applying a low voltage to one pin to start the blower. After the research, thought it must be the Climate Control Unit also broken, although it's very rare. Bought a used part from the junk yard, disassemble the center console, and replaced the CCU. It works now! right in the time as Arizona is at 80sh now :)
 

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It's a such big saving, and the cost for me is $0.50 for the transistor, and $75 for the CCU, while the dealer want:
$96+$150 for Transistor
$300+$250 for the CCU

However, I spent several nights for troubleshooting, but it's a joy to learn your car......
 

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Would like to complete this repair myself but I don't have any testing equipment and my symptoms are *slightly* different.

In my case, 2003 MDX front AC operates normally then intermittently stops blowing altogether while the rear AC still operates and blows cool air. While under normal vehicle operation the front AC then sporadically returns to normal operation. Then the cycle repeats at a seemingly random interval, shutdown-restart-shudtown-restart...

I would appreciate any advice!
 

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Would like to complete this repair myself but I don't have any testing equipment and my symptoms are *slightly* different.

In my case, 2003 MDX front AC operates normally then intermittently stops blowing altogether while the rear AC still operates and blows cool air. While under normal vehicle operation the front AC then sporadically returns to normal operation. Then the cycle repeats at a seemingly random interval, shutdown-restart-shudtown-restart...

I would appreciate any advice!
It now no longer blows any air at all, but the rear still blows cold.
 

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Finally got off my lazy bum and removed the assembly just to give it a try. I don't have a huge stockpile of hardware so I clipped apart a spare USB cable, stripped the ends, and closed the circuit... and EUREKA!

DigiKey here I come!

Thanks to @sidewinder and everyone else on this forum for saving me from likely > $100 bill from my mechanic and from this Florida heat!

PS, any reason I need to replace the fuse and can't just leave the circuit closed? Fire hazard?
 

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Yup, transistor should arrive tomorrow. Although I am wondering whether I even need to replace it and why I can't keep the circuit closed with the wire?
 

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I'd guess the thermal resistor is to protect the more expensive transistor as it generates lots of heat. Without it, you may burn the transistor which I believe is more difficult to replace.
 

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This is the best $1 fix for the AC with the replacement of a tiny $1 resistor. My front ac finally stop to blow air. I did replace the rear AC's resistor a couple of years back. It took about an hour and now both front & rear AC are blowing again. :)

I am pretty sure if you take it to the dealer, they will replace the entire part ($100 or more) and charge another $200 for labor.
 

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This is the best $1 fix for the AC with the replacement of a tiny $1 resistor. My front ac finally stop to blow air. I did replace the rear AC's resistor a couple of years back. It took about an hour and now both front & rear AC are blowing again. :)

I am pretty sure if you take it to the dealer, they will replace the entire part ($100 or more) and charge another $200 for labor.
Absolutely, this is a huge time and money saver, easily $300. Down here in FL if your A/C breaks in the summer then you will pay anything. Including shipping with DigiKey my repair was $9 + elbow grease. I can't stop bragging to friends!
 

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Can someone confirm the front resistor is same as rear?

I know many of you purchased P10920-ND (EYP2BN109) for both front and rear which is rated 114C 2A/250VAC but my 04 MDX rear has 133C resistor so the right replacement part is EYP2BN127 which is rated 134C 2A/250VAC.

I'm trying to buy the resistor for both front and rear as spare parts since my rear went out and why pay shipping twice when I'm pretty sure the front resistor will encounter the same issue. I just want to make sure I get the right resistor for the front (is it 114C or 133C in the front?).
 

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I made this fix in my 2003 but with a radio shack part, now the blower won't shut off, it will continue to blow ambient air in the off position and the fan speed control does not work, any ideas?
 

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Thank you all very much. Internet is wonderful. My wife's 2002 Acura MDX is having the same issue yesterday with her front A/C fan suddenly not working but the back A/C works fine. Googled the internet and found this thread. Called 2 Local Acura Dealers, one was quoted me for $98 for the Transistor Assembly and another closer by for $108. Both dealers said they don't sell the transistor alone. It has to be bought with the entire Transistor Assembly. Disconnected it and took it to the dealer and paid for the part. Connected the wire plug to the new Transistor Assembly before installing it back and the fan worked immediately upon turning on the ignition.
 

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Thanks a bunch mmbraun!!!

what do I need to do to see the pictures. Really want to fix this tonight, as it is going to be 100 the rest of the week
Thank you so much, I just fixed based on your instructions. Great pics helped me for a perfect fix. Appreciated!!!

I have Acura MDX 2002 model. Front a/c wasn't working. Rear a/c works good. I have ordered P/N P10920-ND From Digikey for the replacement fuse. Link http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/EYP-2BN109/P10920-ND/295816. $0.74 part (I ordered two for future use:), shipping $4. I have bought basic soldering kit from RadioShack $10.99.

I have followed mmbraun instructions on page 3. A/c works great. Spent less than $20.
 

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I made this fix in my 2003 but with a radio shack part, now the blower won't shut off, it will continue to blow ambient air in the off position and the fan speed control does not work, any ideas?
You likely shorted the fuse to ground. Insulate the exposed bare metal wire of the fuse. The transistor controls the speed of the fan. (Big square black thing with 3 terminals that is attached to the heat-sink)

During the transistor's PWM operation it runs hot.

The thermal fuse is there to protect the blower motor.

The fuse seems to burn out on their own overtime. I replaced my rear fan fuse 2 years ago, and the rear air filter screen was clean with no blockage.
I bought 3 114C 2A/250VAC fuses for both front and rear.

My front fan fuse was just blown this morning. :cool:
 

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Exactly. When I fixed my rear AC, I didn't insulate the thermal fuse, and had the same problem. Once I insulated the fuse, it worked as normal...
 

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Thanks to the OP for this tip which helped me with my wife's 2004 MDX. I should emphasize that people should always investigate why their fuse blew in the first place. In my case, the air conditioning is no longer working (I'm pretty sure due to a leak), but we haven't had time to bring it in to get it fixed. My wife thus has been driving it with windows open, but didn't adjust the fan speed (which was on AUTO), so the blower has been blowing on high speed for weeks, trying to cool down the car without air conditioning. I'm pretty sure that the blower was thus overworked, overheated and the fuse did it's job and blew. Jumpering it made it work again and I set the fan speed manually to low until I get the A/C repaired.

For any Canadians reading who are apprehensive about ordering from the U.S. and being hit with duties, etc. I ordered the fuses from digikey.ca on a Saturday evening and they arrived Tuesday morning, so pretty fast shipping ($8 to Toronto) and nothing added except for HST. I looked briefly around my local electronics suppliers, but they didn't have a thermal fuse with the exact same ratings.
 
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