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Front AC out

Hello, I have read the posts about replacing the thermal fuse. I tried a jumper and everything works, but the whole module got too hot to touch-is that normal?
Why would the fuse have blown in the first place?
Am I better off replacing the entire module or will the fuse in the new module blow again?
Do you think taking it to the dealer for evaluation makes sense?
Thanks
 

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Maybe the heat is normal. For as little as the transistors cost, you could just give that a try and put it back together and see what happens. I never messed with a jumper on our front and rear, so I can't be much help. I just replaced the transistors, and cleaned off the vent cover for the rear one, and everything has worked well since. I hope yours can be easily fixed without going to the dealer. Maybe someone else can help you out here, but you probably need to put your original symptoms in this thread so someone can give you better guidance.
 

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Is module supposed to be HOT?

My rear AC went about a month ago and just yesterday my front quit. Saw this thread and pulled the front module and jumped the thermal fuse. AC worked fine, but the module, which was hanging down on the floormat became so hot you couldn't handle it.
Is this normal?
I am hesitant about replacing the fuse because I don't know what caused the burn-out, unless this can happen with age (2004-70k mi).
Now I realize the module would be cooled when it is in place, so is it normal for it to run so hot and can i damage the compressor or anything else by using the jumper?
Thanks
 

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hmnmunster, I am no engineer, but doing a little research revealed that there should be heat involved in the assembly. These two excerpts may convince you too. The first excerpt below (1) is not related to an A/C, but the second one (2) is about the assembly in the MDX that talks about the heat sink. Sounds like the heat sink is to deal with the heat. My thought, and then I will stay out of it, is to buy and install the correct transistor to see if it works, The correct transistor will probably stop working like the last one did if there is another problem causing it, IMO.

(1) "If the collector current through the transistor is high, the transistor may get extremely hot and burn the fingers if you touch it. A heat sink (a special metal piece attached to the transistor) could be used to dissipate heat. Normally, the motors described on this site do not need it, but you may still add a heat sink if necessary."

(2) "The repair for my 2003 MDX, were exactly like the 2002 MDX mentioned earlier. The transistor assembly is removed by turning it clockwise about 1/4 turn. The thermocouple is acessed by removing the plastic cover and the metal heat sink. There are 2 screws on the end, and 1 screw holding the power transistor firmly against the heat sink. Thermo-coupler is soldered in two places and bent to fit along the top of the power transistor. make sure you leave some of the thermal grease so the new thermo couple makes a good seal against the heatsink and transistor. The thermocouple leads should be insulated before you solder it in place."
 

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Hello, I have read the posts about replacing the thermal fuse. I tried a jumper and everything works, but the whole module got too hot to touch-is that normal?
Why would the fuse have blown in the first place?
Am I better off replacing the entire module or will the fuse in the new module blow again?
Do you think taking it to the dealer for evaluation makes sense?
Thanks
I'm thinking the reason for the thermal fuse failure is the cabin air filter being dirty enough to cause the automatic temperature module to work too hard to move an appropriate amount of air thru the system, overheating the thermal module.

I sound like I know what I'm talking about, but this is just an educated guess. It would be nice to know if folks who have this failure have a "very" dirty cabin air filter, or if it has not been changed in a long time.

I've got an '04, and have not experienced this issue before. I have been paying the dealer unreasonable amounts of money to maintain this vehicle however.
 

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Digikey to the rescue!

Front blower stopped working. Reordered same part that fixed the rear blower from Digikey (P10920-ND $0.74 THERMAL CUTOFF) and $3.08 later the front blower was up and running. The rear blower filter was covered with lint when the last resistor went bad. The front blower stopped working just after I replaced the cabin air filter. It will be interesting to note how long the repair lasts. I really should start ordering a few of those resistors at a time and remember where I put them. Still beats paying $70 for the replacement part and $50 for the blower motor.
 

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Thank you!!!!

Sure, I can help a fellow MDXer. PM me with your contact information and we can set something up.
I would like to use this thread and this forum to say a big THANK YOU!!!!
"Thank you!" to original poster, who show all of us how to avoid huge bill from Acura service department by posting this DIY guide.
And another BIG THANK YOU to reds2k1 for helping me today replaced THERMAL CUTOFF and help me install new cabin filter.
It's amazing how this forum let MDX driver around the world with their car issues.
THANK YOU ALL!
 

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Have an 02 MDX that stopped blowing air out of the front vents, whenever I try the front it instead goes out the back vents. I was quoted about 1k for repairs so instead I'm going to try and fix it myself with the info everyone has provided above and hope for the best.
 

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Sidewinder, you are the best! Nothing was coming out of my front vents and this was the first thread I came across when researching it. I bought the 75 cent thermal fuse online as suggested in the thread and installed it in about 5 minutes. Everything works like new again. Thanks again sidewinder and thanks to the forum.
 

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No Front A/C

First I want to Thank, each & Everyone of You for putting This Together with the related Posts !
NO A/C, Died when The Temp, was 104. With all The Computers, I Thought I was done for :Dealer "Please drop Your Full wallet, Here".
After bremoving the Transistor Assembly, We used an Ohm Meter to check The Fuse, FIRST. NO PROBLEM. Frustrated, We decided to start a Process of Elimination. End Product First. Pulled The Blower & VIOLA ! Problem Found. 2 lead wires to your Battery, ( W/ Alligator Clips ) And You can test the blower with Your car Battery. ( There is A Positive Tab & a Negative Tab ). An order at Advance Auto, We got a Replacement over Night, for 91.00. 45 minits later, WE HAVE HEAT, DEFROST & AIR ! Thanks Guys !
 

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Thank you!

Just joined the forum so I could thank the OP and this forum for saving me a fortune! After the front A/C stopped blowing in my wife's 03 MDX I followed the instructions to a T and tried a jumper to verify the fix...worked like a charm!

Ordered the part as described and removed the jumper just to be safe...will have to deal with the FL heat for a couple of days until the thermal fuse gets here.

But thanks again!!!
 

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Have an 02 MDX that stopped blowing air out of the front vents, whenever I try the front it instead goes out the back vents. I was quoted about 1k for repairs so instead I'm going to try and fix it myself with the info everyone has provided above and hope for the best.
It's amazing how a $1 solution from this forum can save us $1000 from the insane criminal that tried to rip some members off.
 

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Front AC not working and jumper on fuse did not work

Hey guys,

Today the A/C on my 2003 MDX stopped working. The temp here is around 90 degrees and humid.

SYMPTOMS:

When I turn the A/C on and manually turn the fan speed on high, only warm air blows out.

Then, if i press the full auto button, it goes into recirculation mode and the fan speed starts to drop immediately to a very slow speed blowing warm air. Temp was set at 60 degrees.

The fan speed would also slow down when I raised the temp from 60 degrees to say 66 or 68 degrees. The outside ambient temperature was 78 degrees.

I tried installing a jumper wire on the blue thermo fuse, but no cool air. My cabin filter was relatively dirty, so I removed it from the air box and will replace it with new one.

I also used an ohmmeter on the blue wired fuse and it showed a closed circuit.

Not sure what to do next. Don't know if it's worth ordering new thermal cutoffs from digi-key since the jumper wire did not work and the ohmmeter showed the circuit was intact.

Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
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