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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I got a couple of issues and I am a bit worry. My MDX recently started accelerating poorly. I as accelerate from stop it doesn't pick up like it used it. I also hear a scratching like sound when i press the gas pedal. Should i change the spark plugs? or is it something else? I haven't change the spark plugs since i brought it 5 months ago and i don't know if the previous owner replaced them or not.

2. When i shift from park to drive or rear or N i hear a noise like a jumping or clunk noise. Do i need transmission fluid? Differential? or transfer case?

Please help with before i order unnecessary fluids and spark plugs.

Miles: 175086 (yeah i know its high)
 

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wow, it is lucky that this thing is still running. i think you need to get a scan tool for precise diagnostics. with your general description, anything is possible.

also changing all the fluid is common sense after purchasing a used car. the previous owner might have give up proper maintenance for a while.

the scratching sound, though, might not be a big issue. it could be awd trying to work. it will that sound only once per trip.
 

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Have you checked for color and smell of your transmission fluid? It should be light red and not smell burned? Take one spark plug out and test it. Check your differential fluid and transfer case fluid as those are usually forgotten when fluids are changed. How is your coolant? Has timing belt been changed along with serpentine belt water pump coolant hoses etc?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
wow, it is lucky that this thing is still running. i think you need to get a scan tool for precise diagnostics. with your general description, anything is possible.

also changing all the fluid is common sense after purchasing a used car. the previous owner might have give up proper maintenance for a while.

the scratching sound, though, might not be a big issue. it could be awd trying to work. it will that sound only once per trip.
I don't get any codes though...
 

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1. "Miles: 175086 "
2. "scratching like sound when i press the gas "
3. "shift from park to drive or rear or N i hear a noise like a jumping or clunk noise."

I wouldn't be driving it if I were you. You should get it to a good Honda/Acura indy shop ASAP. This is a situation where it is wiser to not causing further damage by driving it. A basic diagnosis is under $100 so why risk it.
 

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At 175k and if you don't know the service history, it should be automatic to replace all the maintenance items like all fluids, timing belt, waterpump, idler/pulleys/belts at the very least.

Some make the mistake of getting a good deal on a high mileage car with little or no previous maintenance and then it bites them later or ends up costing more down the road to keep the car going.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Have you checked for color and smell of your transmission fluid? It should be light red and not smell burned? Take one spark plug out and test it. Check your differential fluid and transfer case fluid as those are usually forgotten when fluids are changed. How is your coolant? Has timing belt been changed along with serpentine belt water pump coolant hoses etc?
Can I check the trans fluid from the distick?
I already order 6pc NGK 6994 from amazon.
Coolant is OK.
The only thing I can't do myself, timing belt has not been change. My local shop said only to change belt and water pump. They told me to pulleys doesn't need to be change as they don't go bad. Is this true?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
1. "Miles: 175086 "
2. "scratching like sound when i press the gas "
3. "shift from park to drive or rear or N i hear a noise like a jumping or clunk noise."

I wouldn't be driving it if I were you. You should get it to a good Honda/Acura indy shop ASAP. This is a situation where it is wiser to not causing further damage by driving it. A basic diagnosis is under $100 so why risk it.
I don't have any options I am going to get a diagnosis and try tout fix most my self.
 

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Good idea to get a diagnosis first. Sometimes these are little problems and sometimes it is major. If your T-belt is original you should get it replaced. You are on borrowed time and you run the risk of major engine damage if that belt fails. You can check the Trans Fluid from dipstick but I would just replace it. It is $7-8/quart on Amazon.

If you don't know the history I would certainly replace: Engine oil and filter (I might even change it again in 2,000 miles to help get any potential sludge out), Air Filter, Spark Plugs, T-Belt/Water Pump and Hydraulic Tensioner (some would do some seals and an additional pulley (Idler?) which I chose to skip), Trans Fluid (3x), Transfer Case Fluid and Rear Diff.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good idea to get a diagnosis first. Sometimes these are little problems and sometimes it is major. If your T-belt is original you should get it replaced. You are on borrowed time and you run the risk of major engine damage if that belt fails. You can check the Trans Fluid from dipstick but I would just replace it. It is $7-8/quart on Amazon.

If you don't know the history I would certainly replace: Engine oil and filter (I might even change it again in 2,000 miles to help get any potential sludge out), Air Filter, Spark Plugs, T-Belt/Water Pump and Hydraulic Tensioner (some would do some seals and an additional pulley (Idler?) which I chose to skip), Trans Fluid (3x), Transfer Case Fluid and Rear Diff.

Good luck.
Hey thanks for replying again,

My local shop advice just to change the t-belt and water pump they told me idler pulleys dont need to be replace? should i trust them? or find a new shop? i got quoted around 450 with 2 years parts and labor.

i found out the reason why i got stretching noise its actually sound like ticking noise. it happen right after i changed my oil. I used FRAM filter and maybe forgot to put oil on it. So doing another oil change this weekend and see if that fixes the problem.
 

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Hey thanks for replying again,

My local shop advice just to change the t-belt and water pump they told me idler pulleys dont need to be replace? should i trust them? or find a new shop? i got quoted around 450 with 2 years parts and labor.

i found out the reason why i got stretching noise its actually sound like ticking noise. it happen right after i changed my oil. I used FRAM filter and maybe forgot to put oil on it. So doing another oil change this weekend and see if that fixes the problem.
You dont have to replace it. People replace other related parts in there because it is already all open there and you save on labor. If later idler pulley fails you have to pay for labor again. Its like water pump most likely it is not leaking but since belt is off and you are there replace it and be done with it. You mechanic is sorta right. At least have him change serpentine belt then. I have NEVER on any of my cars had that tickig noise from not putting oil in filter so I cant vouch for that. I use oem oil filters and Mobil 1 5W-20 full synthetic for oil changes and no issues at 120K miles runs smooth as it did when it has 20K miles but I am very anal about fluids. Every 15K miles i change differential fluid and every 15k-20K drain and fill transmission fluid and only premium shell gas :29:
 

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If you're getting ticking, are you full on oil? I know with the BMWs I have owned that if they aren't topped up with oil I'll get a lifter tick. Possibly same issue here??
 

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Usually on the 2nd timing belt around 200k, my mechanic says it is good to replace the pulleys and seals. The 1st go around is a calculated gamble that those added parts will make it to 200k. In perfect weather southern cal that is usually the case. If you live where the weather has extremes that might not be the case. Regardless you are basically at the 200k mark anyway. The water pump is an automatic. Just change it. And I would change the Serp belt too. What is your plan? If you want to go another 100k, don't cut costs on this surgery. My goal is to get to 200k and then dump it. That is why I did the water pump, belt, hydraulic tensioner, plugs and T-belt but skipped on seals and pulleys.

As for oil. Putting oil in your filter before you screw it on will help you get oil pressure immediately after starting the car. That is about it. I do it but it is not required. So when you turn your key to start it the red oil pressure light goes away slightly faster. As far as ticking goes just check the oil level. If it is low, add some. If it the leve is fine you might have some issues on the top end. Might need to have someone take the valve covers off and inspect.

Had a BMW and agree with the ticking noise. I tracked it once and didn't get enough oil to the top side and got a scary lifter noise. It went away after I let the car cool off. My Porsche has this when it sits too long and all the oil drains away from the top end.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update

Hello,

I got a couple of issues and I am a bit worry. My MDX recently started accelerating poorly. I as accelerate from stop it doesn't pick up like it used it. I also hear a scratching like sound when i press the gas pedal. Should i change the spark plugs? or is it something else? I haven't change the spark plugs since i brought it 5 months ago and i don't know if the previous owner replaced them or not.

2. When i shift from park to drive or rear or N i hear a noise like a jumping or clunk noise. Do i need transmission fluid? Differential? or transfer case?

Please help with before i order unnecessary fluids and spark plugs.

Miles: 175086 (yeah i know its high)

Hey everyone,

I wanted to update and thank you guys for your response. I really appreciated.

I change my spark plugs (was easy except for the one plug by driver side) and did an oil change (Mobil 1 High Mileage). I was unable to change the transfer and transmission fluid i cannot take those damn bolts off. Unfortunately the little sound ticking/scratching/grinding (i honestly don't know how to describe it) is still there. I'll be taking my car to the shop to do timing belt and change out the serpentine belt (thank you for suggesting it) and have the shop listen to the sound i am hearing.

anyway i just wanted thank you guys again for your response and suggestions. Peace!
 

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Hey everyone,

I wanted to update and thank you guys for your response. I really appreciated.

I change my spark plugs (was easy except for the one plug by driver side) and did an oil change (Mobil 1 High Mileage). I was unable to change the transfer and transmission fluid i cannot take those damn bolts off. Unfortunately the little sound ticking/scratching/grinding (i honestly don't know how to describe it) is still there. I'll be taking my car to the shop to do timing belt and change out the serpentine belt (thank you for suggesting it) and have the shop listen to the sound i am hearing.

anyway i just wanted thank you guys again for your response and suggestions. Peace!

Timing belt service is done every 105K, so check the service records to see if it was done around there. If not, I'd replace the belt, tensioners and a few other items while there including the waterpump.

The transmission is the biggest concern. Pull the automatic transmission fluid dipstick out and wipe it on a clean cloth. It should be pinkish red. If it's dark colored that might be the issue.

The bolts are a pain in the rear to open, go to a shop and they can crack them open for around $20 rather than paying a shop to do the fluid changes.

Does the poor acceleration improve after 2500 RPM? If yes, then it could be an issue with the torque converter.

Also with 175K, you could use a valve adjustment if it was not done at 105K.

Do you use premium? If not, that's one problem right there. Also use a good fuel cleaner like Redline SI-1 every time you change the oil.
 
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