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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, this is a long story. I have been having the infamous front clunking issue for years. I have changed both front struts, both lower control arms, both sway bar links, sway bar bushings, inner and tie rod ends on both sides, front motor mount, passenger side engine mount, and there was no visible issues with the two transmission mounts. The car has been driving very smoothly after essentially all new front suspension. BUT the annoying clunking noise is still there, particularly when I push gas from a stop or sometimes when it changes gears. When it starts running on highway, there is no issue at all.

Long story short, I figure that there is only one thing left, is high is the rear engine mount. After sticking my inspection camera done to the mount, only to find that one side of the rear mount was peeling off from the steel housing. Please see the attached picture. I have bought the OEM rear mount from Tim and plan to do it by myself. Even with all the front suspension and the motor mounts I have done as diy, I am afraid this rear mount a tall task.

Has anyone replaced the rear engine mount by himself before? Any information is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here is the picture looking from the top left of the mount when I was facing the engine. You can see the rubber detaches from the metal mount. Is this a DYI job? Should I take it to a shop? Any advice? Thanks!
 

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I looked and did not find anything posted on rear motor mount. I looked at engine installation (see attached). It looks like you would need to remove lower subframe while supporting engine to access rear motor mount. There may be ways to rig this where engine is supported by body w/ bars front to rear of engine compartment and avoid the complex engine rigging of the manual. I don't think there is an easy DIY procedure, but worth a dedicated search to see. Check youtube carefully for Pilot and MDX videos.

I've worried about this on my 03 MDX but so far no motor mounts since front mount was replaced when purchased used at 90K miles. Now at 175K miles.
 

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Thanks Texas! The engine installation manual helps. I will give it a try and take some pictures to share over here if I can figure out a way to replace it by myself. I got a quote from a local shop for $200 labor. That will be my other option.
 

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Not for nothing, but when I had a bad side mount I took my '06 to my local mechanic to find out how much he'd charge me to change it out and he offered to do all three for a couple hundred bucks; can't remember the exact price at the moment, but it wasn't much and the whole point of getting a quote from him was to determine whether the hit to my wallet was worth the savings to my time/scraped knuckles/mental health. I suggested that he didn't need to bother with the rear mount since it was almost certainly OK and known to be a PITA, but he said no problem, he'd do all three, so I let him have at it.

Long story short: when I picked the vehicle up he admitted that he wished he'd listened to me, that the rear mount was a giant pain to replace and took him longer that he originally predicted. He stuck to his original quote, of course, but I'm pretty sure I came out ahead on that deal; if it took him several hours to do with all his specialized tools, I don't even want to think about what it would have taken for me to do it in my driveway. $200 well spent.
 

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When my dealer replaced the leaking rear seal on my 05, it was like, no problem, we just drop the engine out, crack the transmission from it and swap out the seal. $6.50 parts, $1,100 labor. "We do it all the time, takes a full day, but there's never a problem." I was glad to pay it. Next time, I'd probably use a trans shop, as they probably pull/drop engines more than anyone else. Some jobs are meant for a well-equipped shop and highly trained tradesmen, who have both life and medical insurance.

Top-supporting the engine and dropping the rear sub, while detaching the rack & pinion, just to change out the rear eng mount is just not worth it in my estimation. The labor cost is about the same as a brake job with rotor turning, but a rotor/brake job is just 5 nuts/bolts and couple rusted-on screws on each side (not counting lug nuts), and its all outer work. Not at all like dealing with working dead-center under the vehicle without the safety of the rear sub-frame.

I have a thoroughly thumbed-through factory manual and I can't find a procedure for this. I've done all the work you've described, and we are probably similar in our ability level, experience and tool toys, and I feel its important to say, let the pro's handle it. Its important to avoid getting oneself into the local news.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Agreed. I spent about one hour last weekend, took both wheels off, jacked up the car, took the engine cover off, looked top-bottom and left-right, again and again, finally I think I will pay $200 for the shop to do it :)
 

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I was going to do it on my 2005, but changed my mind when I saw what was involved. Be prepared for your $200 quote to skyrocket when he sees what is really involved.
 

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An Engine drop takes at least 5 hours. (Plus lift, engine stand, frozen nuts, etc). $200? I don't know anyone who will do it for that price.
 
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