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Thinking through this, I don't think the switches will fit in the same holes, so my advice is suspect (though still worth what you paid for it). ;-)

Here is the wiring diagram - I suspect (though don't guarantee) that you could swap the wires on the plug between the as-is, and to match the 2003 (the "main numbers" on the connector in the diagram) and the 2005 (the numbers in brackets - [3]). That should get it all working as it was designed that way.

Schematic Rectangle Font Parallel Slope


If I'm reading this right, you'd move the wires like this:

Existing wiring plug number to Modified wiring plug number
1 (unchanged)
2 (unchanged)
3 to 4
4 to 6
5 to 3
6 to 5

That all presupposes how this works based on the switch diagram in the previous post. And I worked out that plan without looking at the numbers on the second diagram (which seem to say the same thing).

Easy peasy. ;-)
 

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Most of the plugs are designed around (IIRC) the Molex pins. They (male or female - can I still use those terms? LOL) have little "barbs" that hold them in place in the plastic housing. The right way to remove them is to have a special tool, which is essentially just a hollow tube just big enough to fit over the pin, but small enough to compress the barbs to allow pushing the pins out. You may be able to pry the barbs into submission one at a time with a VERY skinny screwdriver (like a jeweler's screwdriver) by flexing the cables one way (releasing the "lower barb") and then the other (releasing the "other barb". Or worst case, you COULD cut and splice (I'd recommend soldering and heat shrink tubing, just to be sure that the new connections are 100.000% reliable.

Make doubly certain to take photos of the "before state" of the plug so you can recreate the original wiring configuration if you happen to lose track of the process mid-stream. I suspect that the color coding on the schematic would be correct, but I never assume.
 

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FWIW, here is the "official tool" I was talking about (just the first one I saw on Amazon, making no effort to find a better option - but at $7 delivered, it's worth having just to make the job simpler, and to reduce the chance of messing up a pin).

Here you can see what the tabs on the pin look like (the ones on the cylindrical portion of the pin, not the crimp areas at the rear, designed for capturing the wire)...
Font Jewellery Metal Bicycle part Automotive exterior
 

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Oops - the good news is that you can use a small flat tool (like a jeweler's screwdriver) to release the pins. Just pull lightly on a cable, and pry the tab on that connector down and it should wiggle right out of the connector. Sorry for the misinformation (something about the diagram made me think the pins were round - these are easier!).
 

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Let us know how it comes out - there's always a pretty good chance someone else will be looking for this info sometime in the future, and I'm sure they'd love to see the outcome of this Frankenstein effort! ;-)
 

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I agree that the #1 and #2 wires don't move, so chances are if the "full-time" lights aren't lit, there could be a problem with the lamps (or do they only come on with the headlights? I forget).

Otherwise, it sounds likely you've got it. I didn't know that the plug did have those "covers", which is kind of odd... but that's how Honda rolls, I guess. ;-)
 
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