I found who I loaned the multimeter to and did some tests this evening.
12.7v car off
10.4v when starting
14.5-8v when running
Everything off after a 30 min sleep I disconnected the negative terminal and attached one lead to the negative wire and the other to the negative battery post
I got a reading of .47ma on a parasitic draw test even with the HDMI converter plugged in. I unplugged it and it remained at .47ma
I understand .47ma is normal?
Is there another test I should be doing?
Now I am not sure if it being plugged in while the car is running does anything different such as keeping that circuit open and live when the car turns off but I wasn’t willing to test it. For now I’ll just make sure the kids know to unplug it when they use it as a just in case.
To me it seems the battery just died in less than a year. AFAIK
nothing was left on What baffles me is it charged up and is showing good numbers now.
I didn’t want to chance it so I went to Costco for the warranty and they told me to bring it in for a replacement. I asked if I can buy the replacement now and return the bad battery tomorrow to be more efficient and they said sure. So I picked up a new battery, installed it and will return the bad one under warranty tomorrow. I don’t need the wife and kids getting stuck somewhere trying to jumpstart the car.
I guess now I see why it’s a good idea to have a portable battery type jumper for each car - but they are flawed - Just remembering to charge them periodically seems like a chore itself and if forgotten they are useless. I have cables in each car which I have never used for my vehicles except for this go around.
What do you folks favor - the slim battery type or the big bulky power / compressor types?
- it was a local parts place not Acura - it’s where I get most of all my parts needs like filters, calipers, washers, bolts etc.. (if they have them in stock) anything outside of OEM Acura/Honda parts or brake pads. Brake Pads I get from AutoZone. No idea whether or not he’s that knowledgeable but even my own mechanic doesn’t like our 3rd gen MDXes. Before when I was going to get it towed to him I called him and he told me he was replacing a bad alternator on a ‘14 with 72k mikes right now.
The MDX has been good to me besides, the Christmas Tree warning lights last year (which a new battery solved) and a stuck caliper slide pin which is really a rusted bracket which at the time was not available aftermarket. But that’s the northeast salted roads for you.
I now have a broken front engine mount but I am doing the timing belt soon so I’ll get to that when I do the timing belt.