Stock speaker upgrade - Acura MDX Forum : Acura MDX SUV Forums
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016 Thread Starter
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Stock speaker upgrade

Hello everyone. My wife just recently purchased a 2014 BASE MDX. We're really enjoying the car...except for the stereo. While the 432-watt system sounds good on paper, the stock speakers produce muddy sound.

I have already purchased the following:

(Front components) Infinity Primus PR6500cs
(Rear door) Infinity Primus PR6502is
(Subwoofer) Pioneer TS-SW2002d2
(Speaker Adapters) HSB524
(Speaker Plugs) Metra 72-7800

I'm pretty handy when it comes to doing DIYs. I just need to know a bit more info on the front component speaker hookup. I'm assuming there's an external amp somewhere in the BASE MDX. How would I hookup the speakers and crossovers? Does the stock amp go straight to the crossover and then split up to the 6.5 and tweeter?

Should I have to worry how the stock setup is connected? I've heard sometimes the stock amp has an output to the 6.5 and another to the tweeter, and sometimes there's a capacitor to filter out low frequencies.

Also, has anyone had experience with replacing the stock sub? I'll try taking that area apart, but I wanted to see if anyone had any tips.

Thanks!!

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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016 Thread Starter
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Anyone?
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016
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yes. there is an external amp; they all have one.

it is located in the center console on the passenger side. you can access it by pulling the carpeted panel away from the center console.

i dont have the stereo wiring, but i guess you can pull it from Cruchtfield.com website i suppose?

the sub sits in its own enclosure that fits in the rear of the car on the right side (facing into the car from the tailgate). looks like this: http://www.augustpohl.com/used-parts...9#.WBovEfkrKM8

not sure an aftermarket sub will fit into this special enclosure, however.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016
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For what it's worth, one option to deal with the varying impedances would be to replace the factory amplifier. My cost was about $225. This totally eliminated the Bose system and allowed me to install the aftermarket speakers of my choosing. This was on a 1st gen, but the basics should be the same unless other things are tied in that require the Bose amp (nav, etc. - I just don't know on your year).

2003 MDX
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-02-2016 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses. I'm really trying to stick to just a speaker only swap out. They're 3ohm, so the volume shouldn't be affected too much, but clarity should be much better. According to Crutchfield, the Pioneer sub is a direct replacement for the stock one.

I guess when I do the fronts, I'll see how it's wired and take it from there.
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Hey JC-RH! How did your speaker swap go? Are you still pleased with the results?

Looking to do the same, so reading old posts of others efforts.


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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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I am also interested in a speaker only swap, appreciate any instructions and pictures. My 2015 tlx sounds so much clear and pleasure to listen.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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You should read this thread: https://www.mdxers.org/forums/94-thi...ts-wiring.html It will tell you all you need to know, or point to it, other than the sub replacement which is in other threads. Search is always your friend... BTW be patient with the mentioned thread as we were wandering around in the dark at the beginning but got to a really good place at the end. There are newer speaker models, and the ones listed may not be currently available, but replacement models are available. Just be sure you are buying the 2.3Ω models.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Stock speaker upgrade

Thanks for the info. I just ordered speakers for the vehicle.

Infinity PR6510CS component speakers for the front doors and pillars

Infiniti PR6502IS 2-way speakers for the rear doors

Kicker KSC3504 for the front center

Figure Iíll wait for a bit and see how that works out before going for the sub.

The Infiniti speakers are 3 ohms and the center is 4 ohms. Hopefully I can just dial in the radio settings to remove any mismatch that might be experienced.

I have the Elite trim, so it has a few additional speakers than yours did.


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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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The PR6510CS are 2.7Ω and 88dB sensitivity, the PR6502IS is 3Ω and 93dB, and the Kicker KSC3504 is 4Ω and 88dB. For comparison our speakers are the older [PR6500CS] (3Ω and 93dB), the PR6502IS (3Ω and 93dB), and the JBL GTO329 (3Ω and 91dB). The slightly higher impedance of your Kicker center speaker should reduce the output a little over 3Ω; I don't see any obvious way to adjust this with the controls but it probably won't affect the experience noticeably. The more interesting effect is from the sensitivity numbers. The front door and dash speakers have 88dB sensitivity while the rear doors have 93dB. This means that the front speakers will be putting out 5dB less sound than the rears for the same electrical input, which might be offset by a judicious use of the fader.

It appears that the amplifier output in the MDX is the same for the front doors and pillar tweeters (i.e. no filtering on them). Thus the tweeters can be driven by the front door outputs, instead of the existing tweeter wiring. Some have installed the crossover in the door and run wires from there to the pillars for the tweeters. I chose to not mess with the wiring but instead dis-assembled the crossover into the low-pass coil and the high-pass capacitor for each channel. I soldered the coil in series with the door speaker, and the capacitor in series with the tweeter, before installing. (My center speaker came with a high-pass capacitor which I also used.) In this configuration the door signals are not split between the two speakers as in a crossover, but they are still attenuated as appropriate. Either way (using the crossover and adding wiring to the tweeter or using the components at each speaker) should have the same excellent results.

I doubt that it will be worth it to remove the lining and replace the overhead speakers but that depends on how much you care about the sound for the rear seats. YMMV
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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My bad. Been looking at too many part numbers today. You made me nervous for a minute and I went to double check my order.

The fronts are PR6500CS which are a match for the PR6502IS in rear, and not PR6510CS.

Yes, the Kicker for the middle has a different impedance and sensitivity. Hopefully it will still be a good upgrade.

I plan to do the same thing, put the crossover components inline with the speakers to use the stock wiring.


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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Fixed the old p/n - overly sensitive trackpad keeps messing things up.


That should work well. The point of the center speaker is to add better stereo definition over right and left only, and is just right+left channels. The worst that could happen is less of a sense of the stereo image - not a terrible result.
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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I see that some outlets still offer the JBL GTO329. Why go with the Kicker?
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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I bought the speakers through Amazon, and they didnít have that JBL model available. So I went with a speaker that Crutchfield says fits, rather than take a chance on one that might not fit.


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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Appreciate if someone can post a detailed instructions on removing door panels for speaker replacement. If it's easy and no risk of damaging door panels, I would like to do speaker replacement also.
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