Honda J series engine timing belt replacement tutorial - Acura MDX Forum : Acura MDX SUV Forums
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Honda J series engine timing belt replacement tutorial

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/2...mp-Replacement

The author, hardlymoving from axleaddict, is very good. I have read several of his tutorials for Toyota timing belt, wheel bearing replacement etc. Most are of pretty high quality. My only complaint is that sometimes he performs some extra steps that are not super necessary. So I post his tutorial here and would like to hear comments from guys who did this before. Thanks.

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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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This is a good write up. However, there are a few things Iíd never do.

Donít support the engine by the oil pan. The pickup relies on a certain clearance from the bottom of the oil pan to perform. Iíd instead use a jack stand under the AC bracket.

When doing a large job like this, why would somebody reuse the timing belt tensioner? Those of been known to fail even with brand new kits. I would never use a timing belt tensioner. Unless you buy the parts separately, they usually come with one.

He talks about moving the cam gears to help lessen the tension on the belt when applying the new one-that is a nonstarter for me. It would be so easy to get the timing off. The trick is to have the belt slightly on around the various components and that will lessen the tension around everything. That last step of putting the timing belt on it is the most difficult.

Overall this is a really good tutorial.



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Why not use the battery screw or other long screw from Home Depot to hold down the tensioner?


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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011BlackUbmMDX View Post
Why not use the battery screw or other long screw from Home Depot to hold down the tensioner?


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There is a good chance youíll strip either the block provision for that or the battery stud itself. Itís easier and faster to just pull the bolts out quick and the timing belt comes loose.


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Originally Posted by techmechanic View Post
There is a good chance youíll strip either the block provision for that or the battery stud itself. Itís easier and faster to just pull the bolts out quick and the timing belt comes loose.


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Which bolts are you referring to in this diagram?


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Another one

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011BlackUbmMDX View Post
Which bolts are you referring to in this diagram?
Forgot I never responded to this. As to what i'm referring to, it isn't in your diagram. The provision i'm talking about stripping has to do with what they cast into the block to allow you to thread the battery tie down stud to counter the pressure from the timing belt tensioner in order to loosen the timing belt.

It is shown here circled in green:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techmechanic View Post
Forgot I never responded to this. As to what i'm referring to, it isn't in your diagram. The provision i'm talking about stripping has to do with what they cast into the block to allow you to thread the battery tie down stud to counter the pressure from the timing belt tensioner in order to loosen the timing belt.



It is shown here circled in green:



I am referring your statement
ď Itís easier and faster to just pull the bolts out quick and the timing belt comes looseĒ. Which bolts?


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After watching a few of these, the job seems pretty easy.

1. Get the crank pulley bolt out and remove the serpentine belt/tensioner/ideler
2. Move power steering power out of the way.
3. Support the engine from bottom and remove that engine mount.
4. Removing the timing covers and align the three timing marks.
5. Remove the hydraulic tensioner etc and the belt. Mark the belt beforehand and transfer the marks to new belt.
6. Remove and reinstall water pump, drain radiator before that.
7. Remove and reinstall cam crank seal if necessary.
8. Remove and reinstall tensioner, and two pulleys.
9. Align timing marks, release tension and rotate 2 full turns to make sure timing is correct.
That is it. Seems highly DIY-able.
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This lady is good. I never knew there is an access panel for coolant petcock. Also the Pilot got a hydraulic drive belt tensioner while our MDX got one with a spring inside? Wow.

Among all these videos, The 1A Auto one is the easiest to follow. I enjoy watching a female mechanic work. She pays a lot of attention to details. The only thing is that she should teach others to take crank bolt off first. It is not guaranteed that anyone can take that bolt off.

She also has a very good discussion on how to remove that timing belt tensioner using a long bolt. I think this answers some of the questions above.

For installing the belt, Eric O and the 1A Auto lady had a good idea. Just make the belt around the front cam as tight as possble and leave all the slack near the tensioner. So when the tensioner shoots out, it won't disturb anything.

She also talked about bleeding the hydraulic shocks three times before installation just like gas shocks. This is pretty new to me. I have only replaced strut assembly before. Did not realize that there is such a subtlety. But how to compress a gas strut?
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Quote:
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Also the Pilot got a hydraulic drive belt tensioner while our MDX got one with a spring inside? Wow.
I might be wrong, but the MDX tensioner is hydraulic.


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Just a few pointers hereÖ

As mentioned by "techmechanic" its way easier to remove the tensioner by just removing the 2x 10mm bolts holding it to the block.. This will remove the belt tension and will make it easier to remove the tensioner pulley, I have never ever used the block provision to remove the tensioner pressure with the battery tie down and I have done dozens of J-Series timing belts.

Hydraulic tensioners for the drive belt are way more expensive and have more maintenance, When they fail you lose the drive belt. Using the spring loaded tensioners on the MDX is a god sent, only downside is that they get noisy with time which gets annoying but they dont fail as often.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AcuraAddicted View Post
I might be wrong, but the MDX tensioner is hydraulic.
It is Spring Loaded..


The J-Series hydraulic drive belt tensioner is way different:


That is of the DRIVE BELT... All J-Series use Hydraulic Tensioners for the TIMING BELT.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by skirmich View Post
Just a few pointers hereÖ



As mentioned by "techmechanic" its way easier to remove the tensioner by just removing the 2x 10mm bolts holding it to the block.. This will remove the belt tension and will make it easier to remove the tensioner pulley, I have never ever used the block provision to remove the tensioner pressure with the battery tie down and I have done dozens of J-Series timing belts.



Hydraulic tensioners for the drive belt are way more expensive and have more maintenance, When they fail you lose the drive belt. Using the spring loaded tensioners on the MDX is a god sent, only downside is that they get noisy with time which gets annoying but they dont fail as often.
I like what you said. I didn't like to use a long bolt to remove the tension either. But it is good to know the purpose of that provision. All other DIY videos remove the two bolts holding the tensioner directly. I guess the lady prefers to do everything by the book.

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